wheel366

I still have my issue with misfiring but I think it may be because my pathy was meant to pass emissions in CA and since I added the high flow CAT and headers that the ECU might not be able to provide enough fuel to compensate for more air running through. It could also be a leaky or faulty injector but the misfire is random, not in time. Also, it doesn't do it when I first start the truck. It takes about 20 - 30 seconds before it starts. Now that I am out of warranty I may (that's a big may because I am saving for a house) get new Jim Wolf cams and have the computer upgraded. I would need new lifters too so the price goes up about $400 just for them.

I'm using the powerslot cryo rotors on the front with Hawk SUV pads. They stop pretty damn well. I went with stock on the rear. They have been on for at least a year now with no problems. I had a little bit of a squeel about 6 months ago but that went away. Not a peep since.

I have the Borloa nad like the way it sounds. I think you are mistaken with the size though. The paper I got said it was 2.25 inches. I remember being surprised that it was not 2.5 or larger. However, I could be the one that is mistaken.

I have a problem with misfiring. It is similar to yours but not the same. I have no problems reving over 4k. Mine sputters when I first start it, a few seconds later it is perfect then give it a minute and I start getting the misfires. It doesn't affect drivability but it is anoying as @!*% and no-one can figure it out. I have had the problem since I got my new engine but I did a few mods when I got the engine. The old engine never ran with the headers so I am not sure if they are making it worse. I do know that when you introduce some gas (gas form, not liquid) into the air box it gets much better so I am getting to much air and not enough fuel. My guess is that the injectors are not supllying enough fuel. It could be that they are maxed out and the ECU can not compensate or I have problems with the injectors. Or maybe the fuel rail. When I got the new engine they did not test the injectors, they just inspected them. I have new O2 sensors already, a new CAT, etc... and I still continue to have the problem. It is to the point where I can not afford to put any more money into the vehicle at the moment. I do have some clunks that I need fixed but that is it.

Dude, I'm the most anal. I go 5k with Amsoil, use an Amsoil EaO filter which I change every oil change and use an Amsoil EaBP bypass filter that I change every other oil change. They are rated to 60K and I change it at 10.

Amsoil makes a filter for the pathfinder. EAO38 http://www.amsoil.com/catalog.aspx?code=EAO38-EA

I'm probably going to get them from summit. $99 each.

I just put Rancho 9000's on the front. They replaced the Calmini shocks that were corroded and had to be cut out. I can honestly say the ride is much softer now. Looking to do the rears soon.

Got my kit installed and new Rancho 9000s on the front. At first it drove the same but I took it to a different shop today and they said the steering stabilizer was hitting the idler arm and the idler arm was way to tight. They fixed that and realigned it. Drives better so far. The 9000s feel so much softer on the high way. I haven't played with the settings yet. I'm thinking about getting them for the rear. Did anybody see that Rancho has changed the part numbers on their 9000s? They added an extra 9 to the part number which is their new 9000XL. Different finish and thicker piston and body. To bad I didn't get those for the front. http://www.gorancho.com/products/shocks/rs...xl/rs9000xl.php

Anybody have the part number for the Rancho 5000's for the front? I may need new shocks. I seached through like 15 pages and can't find them.

Amsoil does have oil that is API certified. However, their extended mileage oil is not certified (25k, 35k, etc...). There was an article I was going to post but I can't find it. However, here is a link to people who are oil crazy. Everything from oil, to filters, to additives, etc... You will see that people can and are benefiting from the extended drain intervals and having great results with the amsoil EaO filters. This site isn't Amsoil specific. It has any and everything! http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php Enjoy!

That's all I use except for redline in the trans.

I haven't even thought about the price. As for welds, as soon as I get the other kit installed I'll take some pics for you. I was thinking maybe $1000 because I owned it first. J/K. Something fair of course. When I actually have time to think about it I'll let you know. My guess would be around $200 plus shipping but that is just throwing out a price.

I had to order new bushings so I go the whole steering kit too. Ever since I got that L&P steering kit, my truck has driven like sh!t. I'm hoping that this will resolve that problem. I am also having them do all the bushings front and back to make sure everything is as tight as possible. I understand it will never be like my S but anything has got to be better! While they are doing this, I am having them check the whole lift to make sure the idiot that installed it initially did it correctly. Calmini says that those bushing should have lasted more than 30k miles and that improper installation would cause them to fail. We'll see if that is indeed true. I will soon have for sale a full Stage 3 L&P steering kit minus the bronze bushings if anyone is interested. I'm sure it's fine but it did not work for me. In fact, it made my truck worse.

I have them. No adverse affects except that I get worse gas mileage but only by about 20 miles per tank. May not be a problemwith the plugs though.

I had the PIAA super silicon. I am using rain-x ones now. Don't like them. I did like the PIAAs a lot. They stayed soft for a freakin long time while still giving a good wipe.

BP is Amoco. Every hear of them? I read somewhere (popular science, consumer reports?) that the techron additive is the real deal. I have also heard of reports where people have failed emmisions, put a bottle of the chevron injector cleaner, drove for 20 minutes and went back to inspection and passed. I myself have never done this, but I have heard this from multiple different people. My boss LOVES Chevron. Everytime a conversation comes up about gas I hear "CHEVRON IS THE BEST!". I use V power (shell 93) in my S4 and I know that a lot os S4 owners do the same. I have a 100 octane program too. I would love to try it sometime but I am worried about blowing my turbos. There is a sunoco station a couple of miles away that has 100+. I think it is 104 or 105.

Chevron is no where to be found in NJ. The last place I saw a Chevron station was in NC. I think I may have seen one in FL or AZ too. Can't remember. The good thing about Chevron is that they add the techron additive to their gas. That additive is supposed to be awesome.

Shell costs very close to the same as all the other places around me. I have a discount gas place by my house that is more than Shell. Also, I have a shell card so I get 5% back on all purchases. Even if they are a little more it ends up being cheaper overall.

I didn' t have any problems with installation. Granted, I didn;t do the installation but I didn' have any type of extensions made. Did you have to have the extensions made because of the body lift? I have yet to install my body lift.

if you use gas with a higher octane reating than required, the fuel will not combust completely and you will end up with wasted fuel and possibly less power. If you are experiencing problems with pinging, try a grade up which should be 89. Also, try some fuel injector cleaner. YOu only need higher octane fuel if you are pinging or the manual states it is a requirement.

I agree. Go with the Brembo's and get some good pads too. I got the Hawk SUV pads but I hear that the Satisfied pads are pretty good too. Tirerack has the brembo's a little cheaper than what you posted above.

You know I still have the problem but it has gotten so much better since I replaced plugs and wires. If it gets worse again or I notice a huge decrease in mileage, then I will look into changing the plugs again. I have noticed a slight reduction in mileage already. Now, let explain. This missfire "sound" is supposedly because I am running lean. Once they blew some gas into the intake to richen up the mixture (not liquid gas, I forget exactly what they used) the sound stopped. I am blaming the reduction of mileage to the system getting the proper amount of fuel now instead of running lean. But I will keep an eye on it. I am the most critical of everyone who has heard this. I end up pointing out things that everyone else misses (or chooses to miss). I forget what type of wires I am using but I believe they are 7's. They look better than what I had on there and cost about $53 at a discount. I notice that Amsoil sells NGK wires and plugs. A plug set from them is like $112 but around $80 with my discount. The iridium plugs are about $23 each before my discount. MAN, that's expensive!

The manual states that synthetic CAN be used. I use 5W-30 and have no problems. I have used both Amsoil and Mobil1.

Wires are new. Distributor is about 10k miles old. You know, I had Bosch Platinums in there before the new engine and I didn't have a problem. With the NGK's I had this annoying misfire sound. Supposedly, it was running to lean. Now, it is much better. We'll see how they are. If I end up hating them, I can always change. There is a new plug out called Pulstar Pulse Plugs, but they are $25 each. Not ready to take that plung. But maybe a different NGK or another brand.