wheel366

You know I still have the problem but it has gotten so much better since I replaced plugs and wires. If it gets worse again or I notice a huge decrease in mileage, then I will look into changing the plugs again. I have noticed a slight reduction in mileage already. Now, let explain. This missfire "sound" is supposedly because I am running lean. Once they blew some gas into the intake to richen up the mixture (not liquid gas, I forget exactly what they used) the sound stopped. I am blaming the reduction of mileage to the system getting the proper amount of fuel now instead of running lean. But I will keep an eye on it. I am the most critical of everyone who has heard this. I end up pointing out things that everyone else misses (or chooses to miss). I forget what type of wires I am using but I believe they are 7's. They look better than what I had on there and cost about $53 at a discount. I notice that Amsoil sells NGK wires and plugs. A plug set from them is like $112 but around $80 with my discount. The iridium plugs are about $23 each before my discount. MAN, that's expensive!

The manual states that synthetic CAN be used. I use 5W-30 and have no problems. I have used both Amsoil and Mobil1.

Wires are new. Distributor is about 10k miles old. You know, I had Bosch Platinums in there before the new engine and I didn't have a problem. With the NGK's I had this annoying misfire sound. Supposedly, it was running to lean. Now, it is much better. We'll see how they are. If I end up hating them, I can always change. There is a new plug out called Pulstar Pulse Plugs, but they are $25 each. Not ready to take that plung. But maybe a different NGK or another brand.

I agree with the plugs, wires and fuel cleaner. The Chevron with techron is supposed to be awesome. I have used it before but I know use the Amsoil PI. Also, oxygen sensors will give you bad gas mileage if they are shot. I just did plugs yesterday and ran a bottle of the Amsoil PI right before I changed my oil last weekend. What oil are you running? Should be something like 5W-30 especially in the cold. The thinner oils are better on mileage than the heavier stuff.

I have had my plugs for about 20k miles. Basically, since I got my new engine. They were NGK and I put in Bosch Platinum 2+. The plug in the back took like 45 minutes to change. When I did get it out, it was cracked. Not sure if I did it or it was like that already. Some of them looked more dirty than others. The cracked one looked clean. But the rest weren't. On left front most plug (Looking at the engine from the front) had a screw down the hole by it. Not under the plug but looks like it fell there after the plug was put in. Not sure if this did or could have caused any problems. That same plug also had something on it but I don't know what it was. I took some compressed air and blew some of the plugs aout before I removed them. I didn't want to get dirt, leaves, etc.. in there. Yes, there were some leaves. Don't know how though. I still have that misfire sound but it is much less frequent as it was before. When I would give it gas out of gear and bring the RMP's up to around 1800 - 2000 rpms, you could clearly hear the misfiring not it is much much much LESS! I want to give it a full tank of gas before I check mileage.

Oops. Wrong site. Here it is. http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/RockSliderZ.shtml#NPF

www.rocksliderz.com I believe. I'll check when I get home.

With everything I have done to mine, I'm still only getting like 325 all highway miles.

I got them. I went all out. Got the kick outs, painted, extra wide, grip tape, etc... I don't have pics though, sorry.

I have some energy suspension urethane bushing for stock arms. Will they work with the Calmini arms?

I got my brakes installed today. Feels pretty good. I am about to go outside and bed them. I did little braking on the way home from the shop so I could do this right. Now, when they took my truck for a ride they said it wandered like crazy, which I already knew. He looked at it and said that my upper control arms are shot. Then he said the bushings are shot but couldn't get a good look at the actual arms until he takes it apart. I told him that the control arms are like super duper and it is most likely the bushings. I called Calmini and the guy agreed with me that the arms are most likely fine. They have never had an instance where the arms are shot. He said the bushing are meant to last a long time. I told him they have about 35k miles on them and none of them are from off roading. They told me that if is most likely due to improper initial installation. Just more sh!t to deal with. Ugh........... I'm not getting this fixed until the spring. Anybody have something similar happen? Any ideas?

People like what they like. I have been in IT for years and I find this works the best, for me. As for virus protection, I believe that they all compare and find the exact same stuff. It's not like anti-spyware software. One program will catch one thing while another gets something else the first one didn't catch. I just find the corp edition to be easy to use, takes less resources than the retail products and does a great job at catching viruses. I know that with symantec, it will catch a virus in a file even when the file has not finished downloading yet. It also integrates will into outlook and other mail programs. Aside from that, it can scan 10 levels deep in a compressed file. There is also tamper protection offered now which works well, but can be a pain when some other programs try to scan it like Windows Defender.

FOr me, when I was sending email after email, I think he blocked my email address. As soon as I used another address I got results. Try that. See if that works for you.

I use and love the Symantec Corp edition. Doesn't have all the crap that the retail versions have. Doesn't slow my system down either. I have been using it since 1999. I've seen all the other brands: AVG, PANDA, Mcafee, etc... and don't like any of them nor do I think they do as good a job as symantec. I believe you can purchase the corp edition for home use. You just have to pay per client.

I have to be honest. If the shop didn't tell me that I needed new brakes I would not be getting new ones. I'm assuming that the guy who owned the truck before me just had OEM stuff installed and they feel fine. I have no complaints. Even with only 10% left, they feel fine and I have never had any problems. Even passed inspection. But to be safe to myself and others I feel that it is important to get them done all the way around. which is what I am doing.

I am taking the truck to the shop on Tuesday next week to get the brakes done. It looks like at least one of the rear calipers is rusted and possibly frozen. The rotor is all rusted and it doesn't look like it's been used in a while. I was gonna do the replacement myself for the rears but I don't want to deal with that so I am letting someone else do it. Since I have never done brakes on the truck since I bought it in 2003 I wonder what it will feel like when it's done. I don't even know when the guy whom I purchased the truck from had them done. I would think not any time close to when I bought the truck since the caliper is frozen. Something to look forward to.

Anybody else on pad brands? I'm gonna order really soon and want to get something good.

So, I did the washer thing and it fixed it until tonight. When I go over bumps, the lights come on but not all the time. Do I need thicker washers? The ones I used are pretty thick but not overly thick. Maybe I should just get it fixed properly.

I took mine to Chicago from NJ and back. It was a long drive. Got OK gas mileage. I think I got abot 320 miles per tank. Maybe 340 but that would be max. It was my first long trip (and the only one that far) since I've had the truck. I had just gotten the hi-flow cat installed and the electric fan. I would love to go again but I need to do something for some better mpg.

I can do that but I have other things that need to get done. They are friends of mine. I do PC work for them and they do stuff for me. At the moment, I have one of their laptops and PC's here at my house.

I went to my body shop today. It is the latch in the rear hatch. When we put pressure on it, the light goes out. I am bringing it in for some other work on the 26th and they fix it then. I need to have the weather stripping on the front doors checked plus the tire carrier won't latch unless you hold the latch open then push the tire carrier closed then release the latch. Also, my driver side door won't latch when it is super cold out. Oh and I'm getting new fog lights since I cracked one of them.

Recently, I have been having this issue where it tells me I have a door open. The light comes on in the car and the in the dash. I had to turn off all interior lights because they would stay on and I had to disable the alarm cause it would randomly go off. I think I finally figured out which door it is. It's the tailgate. Right now, the lower lights beneath the dash are on and I can't get them to go off unless I push a little on the tailgate but as soon s I let go, they come back on. I can't seem to find where the sensor is for the gate. Does anybody know where it is? I know where the sensor is for the tire carrier. This is driving me nutz. The lights will stay on all night. I'm lucky I just got a new red top.

When I was getting my snow tires installed they told me that I had about 10% of the pad material left on my brakes, both front and back. I had had no problems with my brakes however since I bought the truck in 2003, I have never changed them and I do not know when they were changed before that. I want to get slotted for the front. I'm looking at the Power Slot Cryo-Treated. I also want to get slotted for the rear but it may not be possible I hear that AC has slottef for the rear. I have the disc rear with the drum for the E brake. I'm not sure Tirerack sells a combo like that. My biggest question is what pads do you use front and rear? I want to do this soon. Maybe in January or February but I want to make a good decision.

Well, I got the AT Revo's because they were supposed to be pretty good in the snow. I can honestly say that I never got stuck but I wasn't thrilled with their performance. Having dedicated snow tires on my S4 really made a difference. The car was awesome with those snow tires. However, since the snow tires are around 7 years old, (I've used them for about 6 years) the rubber started to get hard plus I lowered my S4 and I really didn't want to try to make it snow worthy this year after all the upgrades I have done onit. So, yesterday I bit the bullet and got some new snow tires for the pathy. I don't really have any comments on them yet other than I thought they would be better on the ice which is what we had last night. I bought the Toyo Observe Open Country G-02 Plus since my local STS was able to get them in a day. The only other tire I found in a 31" was the Dunlop from tire rack but I didn't want to wait to have them shipped. I called 4 other places in my area and none of them had anything in stock nor could get them. Next year I am going to get a set of steel rims for them but this year I just had the Revos taken off and stored. I paid $176 each with mounting and balancing. I almost had a heart attack since the Dunlops where $109 but when you add in shipping, mounting and balancing I would have ended up paying the same. I just hope I made a good choice. Last year, Bridgestone had a Winter Dueler but they are not offering them this year. The S4 had Blizzacks and they were awesome. They few reviews that I could find said that the Toyos are awesome. We shall see. http://www.toyo.com/docs/tires/tires.asp?l...category=winter

I have to have it looked at. I'm so busy with other stuff that it is not big on my list. Soon though. Thanks for the tips.