Creekkid

something to do with the rearmost body mounts. older ones won't fit newer years.

The only way to really know to bore the cylinders is to inspect for bad scoring. if they look good and if you can check with precision measuring tools you might be able to get away with just re-honing the cylinder walls. It all depends how in depth of a rebuild you want to do. Changing the main bearings would probably be a good idea if you are already in there. It is one of those things where if you are in there you might as well do it if you plan on keeping for some time. Re-ring it, Hone the cylinder walls and replace those bearings and call it a day. oh and change the RMS too

Is that the same pathy that you had problems with bad alignment problems. If so did you ever get it fixed. I guessing not if you have trashed the front end now.

there should be a post that slips in there so it can support loads on the roof like kayaks or canoes or some thing like that

I vote again on the CV's. If there is a rip in the boot even the smallest bit of crap can mess those up and make them noisy. How long you had those torn boots anyway?

check the rear drums. if there is too much wear or if they aren't adjusted to touch the drums the system would be losing all its pressure pushing those pads too far. Definitely check the drms. Fluid could also be leaking in to the drum from the plungers and it would take a while for it to leak out from there before it would be noticed.

I vote the CV as well with that much lift it puts added strain on them

Use a wrench....just did those myself a couple weeks ago. Use the box end and then I had to interlock another wrench onto it to get enough leverage but it'll work. Make sure you run that nut all the way off before popping the shaft out of the knuckle or you might run into it spinning on you.

Just change out the bushings. Doesn't cost a lot just takes some time and effort and a BFH......lol Search the forums on how to's before to see if it something you think you can tackle. Can do it in an afternoon with the right tools.

Yes, lubing it while going in and out works marvelous as well. :tonguefinger:

Well mine was pretty saggy when I bought it, but I would say about 2 - 2 1/2 inches over stock. Just cut the pig tail and you should be good. Hit them with some sand paper or wire brush and give em a good tremclad coat before you put them in...Hit the spring seats with a bit of paint too so no rust starts there.

I got my JGC springs from a Limited Grand Cherokee I6, .56 thickness Pretty good lift with the rear tire carrier. It's a little springy but I need some new shocks now.

I got my springs from a Grand Cherokee Limited 6 cyl. They were the .560 thickness ZN code or some thing like that with a yellow tag.. Gave me about 2 1/2 inches of lift and i have tire carrier with full size spare

What a total rip off......basically stock underneath with fancy paint job...whoopeee. Some one should e-mail them..tell him to take his head out of his a$$.

How do the heated seats work. Is there a switch or are they auto or something. I think my pathy has it but don't know how to turn it on.

Just wanted to say WOW..... That is definitely a mess.

Oh man, this was the super cheap redneck lift. Got the springs for 60 bucks, which was kinda steep. Had some flat black tremclad, and a whole lot of elbow grease. love it.

Finally got around to putting the JGC springs in that I picked up. I think it give me about a 2'' lift and stiffened it up a bit. I have the rear tire carrier with full sizer on there. Give the torsion bars a good crankin to even it out and it's sittin pretty now. http://npora.ipbhost.com//style_emoticons/.../itsallgood.gif http://npora.ipbhost.com//style_emoticons/.../itsallgood.gif Snapped a few pics which i'm still sorting out, trying to find a before pic. Through my infinite wisdom forgot to take 1 before I started. This is when I first got it. It had crappy 235/75/15 winters that were worn. Here's the springs I gotted from the boneyard. This is now after lift and 31" tires. Hopefully this all comes through clear.

Hey thanks everybody. I'll be checking it out this weekend, I always seem too tied up with everything else during the week lately to spend much time on this these last couple days. I'll get it. Just fixed the pins in the rear tire carrier last weekend. Looks like I have to do the BJ's too. Gotta add that to the list of things to do.....oh yeah put those new rear springs in too.... Talk later

There's an access panel in the floor? So I know for sure that it's not from spilled gas. Getting to the top of gas tanks is always such a pain in the ass. Is there really an access panel. That would kind of make it a little easier for inspection. Have to check it out.

So after filling up recently I noticed there is a strong gas smell coming from the rear of the truck. Had a look underneath can't see any leakage. Where does the gas tank vent its vapors to? Maybe something with that. Any ideas?

Just ordered mine from the dealer.... 3.29 for the pins x 2 1.64 for the bushings x 4 coming in tomorrow hopefully put in this weekend sweet Update Worked on it on the weekend 1st pin was pretty easy, second not so much I drilled and beat that effer into submission took most of a day Broke last bushing putting it in, had to get another(1.64) But it is all fixed now nice and quiet. The only thing that wasn`t mentioned was you have to peen over the other side of the pin. Not too tough just requires BIGGER hammer.

Just want to tell everyone about the JGC coils I got at the local JY. It seems everyone say v8 models is where to get them but I found yellow tag .560 inch coil thickness part number 52088362 FN got them from a 6 cyl Grand Cherokee Limited. hope they work for me. Just want to help the ass sag and stiffen it up some with a little bit of lift. Going on 95 SE with tire carrier and trailer hitch. Here is a pic of the new springs