Creekkid

I' gonna go out on a limb here and say that is not good....if you can move the axle tube, I would suggest not driving it for now until it's repaired. Was the vehicle in an accident? Axle tubes don't just come loose for no apparent reason. Find a good Diff shop where you live and give them a call for suggestions.

To put those kind of miles commuting on either of your vehicles is ridiculous....or even to drive an X that far, definitely go for something more efficient for those kind of miles...if you want to stay Nissan go late model Versa's, if that's not your thing go with Early 2000's Maxima's or Sentra's with the 3.5 for some extra umph. Both of those are pretty sweet rides if you find the right model. Or look at same year Infinity's M models, I believe. If you got to travel like that might as well be in comfort. Makes more sense financially and enviromentally to get something more efficient if it is your means. Too much gas for the Pathy and who wants to put those kind of miles on a Z. http://vancouver.en.craigslist.ca/van/ctd/1854195325.html

don't open the bleed screw to compress the piston.....fluid will just run back to the Master Cylinder...just check to make sure there is room in it for the fluid, usually they are ok.

All my vehicles have ABS....it's called adjusting foot pressure on the brake pedal so you don't slide or skid. Relying on electronic safety devices to save your ass gives you a false sense of security. Go to a parking lot and practice hard braking without locking up the tires. I do find it kind of ironic that it was all Fords involved in this accident. Good to hear you are alright.

Welcome.....so what lake is that your camping at?

GO CANUCKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

When you adjust the rear brakes, the wheel must be on. It's usually best to do this both wheels up in the air. Not the safest but works best to make sure both sides are equal. Spin the wheel and adjust the brakes so that the wheel will make about one rotation with medium like force. Check adjustment with the e-brake as well. So that it comes on after the first few clicks. it shouldn't have to be reefed all the way to the top.

Yeah I emailed that guy too. 200 bucks ain't too bad. If you know how to fab, you can probably make it work.

hey...I just put all new tie rods and centerlink and it still does that. it's a poor design.

Very interesting...my SE with I guess the Off Road Package has.... no roof rack, no fog lights, and no security. Have no leather but have heated drivers seat. I have everything else listed there except the lego's.

WOW....very nice work.

If you are not really going to change much on the truck but want better than stock just go with Rancho 5000's

Kinda what I was thinking too.

What kind of stereo....is it the stock one. Could be the fader dial is buggered on the inside of the deck. With how cheap most decks are these days I would yank it out and toss it in the trash and get new one. But definitely check out the connections in the rear of it first. Find the wires that go to a non working speaker and connect to ones on the deck that you know work to see if it's the deck or speaker that is the problem.

I think you would have to long arm the rear in order to keep the geometry somewhat decent. But, it's definitely doable.

I'm assuming you mean British Columbia....awesome....welcome fellow canuck.

You could do that to a Jeep too.

how do you check a "normal" auto tranny fluid level.

I enjoy watching the show But seriously, we keep coming back because.... 1) We all want you to get back on the road...and 2) It's educational.... ... God, I hope you figure this out soon enough. Pull the fricken spark plug and find TDC....quit pissing around it's not that hard.

Agreed that the hubs are a pain in the ass. But I managed to do both Lower BJ's in about 4 hours whereas it took almost a whole day to do the bushing in the UCA on JUST the driver side. Still got to do the pass side though....driver's was toast. I think my lower bushings are toast as well and am very reluctant to do it my self....looks like a MAJOR PIA. You got any pics of the work you are doin on the lowers?

I thought the BJ's not too hard at all. I'd rather do them than control arm bushings.

Welcome fellow Canadian. BUT......where's the PIC's

Jeep Grand Cherokee springs can be just "popped in". Minimal tools are needed. And all you need to cut them is a Hacksaw.

don't know where you are but if you are in the lower mainland/BC have you tried looking at Pick a Part in Chilliwack, they got a few WD21's or try Ralph's in Surrey. Both seem to have a few of them.

x2.....lol