MY1PATH

I think they've merged with raybestos but you can prolly still find it on rock auto for about 60-70 bucks for the pro-grade and less for the "red-flag" grade(not so good)

I would go with a SPicer Pro-grade. Just stay away from the TRW & moog style; shorter thicker shaft, less bearing surface & incapable of being braced. http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...mp;hl=idler+arm

yeh, every time my VR failed I'd just run everything or I would cook the battery and pop bulbs. Gotta give credit to EXIDE tho, battery was cooked pretty good, once when it was new and once rt b4 I put the 180Amp in. Its constantly crystalizing on the neg terminal, had leaked quite a bit when it got cooked the 2nd time but it will still start the engine after about 30hours of the dome light being left on. I been waiting months for it to give up the ghost b4 I get my optima but I don't think it will for another year.

yeh, what B said or; when I replaced my cap my old cap was arranged like this; 2 4 6 1C3 5 My New cap was arranged like this; 2 6 4 1C3 5 Since I had the wires arranged in the same order as the old cap: 4&6 were wrong and the spark wasn't happening untill the exhaust valve was open shooting the combustion straight down the headder on 4&6 and partially out the intake. I feared for bent exhaust valves & melted cat cause think it was more than just a deafening BANG that I heard. when I corrected the issue all was fine fortuantely. Hopefully your solution is this simple.

U sure its the original and not an original reman? My pathy has had 4 or 5 (every 4 years or so) and all of them failed becuase of the VR would lock open because the pre 90's were only 60 amps.

155 was not origianl for the tbi. the VG engine does not reach full efficiency untill 180. a 170 & 175 are used to form a thermal equilibrium @ 180. 165 was an option for hotter climates and 180 was an option for colder climates. The 300zx guys that think they're getting more power by over cooling their engning ran 160's but 155 is just rediculous. I run a 175 in my 89 VG30i, thats what the old one was(had nissan factory stamp on it) and so thats what I put back in. EDIT: More food for thought; I beilve the chevy 350 in LS and LT form found their greatest efficiency @ an equilibrium of 200-210 acheived by running a 180 deg thermostat.

I have never damaged an alty from water intrusion. I've had my pathy halfway up the doors in water for several minutes and no harm. Mean Green claims their alty's are waterproof if your looking 2 upgrade.

this is a good idea, I had considered it too but I think it is easier said than done. Really why not go to a triangulated 4 link so that its centered @ any travel...

it may have only had single trip but the molding may be able to fit dual; run the same mold that fits 2 or 3 options to cut down on production costs... I'm just trying to be optimistic 4 ya in case you wanna upgrade to dual. I still have my HB white letter tach and speedo card if you want them(I cut up the orange ones to make the stanza fit), you'll have to track down your own white temp, fuel etc...

I got my led's from autolumination.com they are the 194wedge and the 24wedge bulbs. I chose the blue 4 led superstar for the 194 and singe blue superstars for the 24. the stanzas had a orange backing that needed to be sanded off w/ 800 grit so that the blue would show thru right but the HB has blue backing. either backing should work fine for green. I had to remove allot of material inside my MT cluster to get the dual trip to fit if you have the at you cluster may already be molded for it. I could not get the glow fiber optic backing to work because the lamps in the stanza are in different places so I left them out. the camera doesn't pickup very well with such hard contranst in dark/ light but the needles are still fairly visible. the trip meeters on the other hand are not(but they never were with white either)

so I been tired of the ugly orange yellow of the stock guages and I've had my eye on the white letter guages found in the nissan pickup. I eventually got some @ a JY and put them in w/ blue LED's But what I really wanted was the white letter dual trip guages sold on e-bay for 80+ bucks but when the seller asks for my vin and Ignores me after I tell him to I'm looking to do something custom and just want to know if he has any dual trip white letter guages for the MT. What's so hard about saying no? It's allot more polite!Anyway, from what I've seen, I guess the Dual trip was only an option for the AT. So I was gonna have to get an AT (white letter dual trip) cluster and do some custom work.... I don't know what I was looking for but I found my self sitting inside a nissan Stanza and thinking "that cluster looks similar enough to do some cool custom work...." Well I got it to fit, that was the ez part. I had to cut and paste the guage faces onto my old orange ones to fill the gaps. Cleaning up the plasic dust from cutting was a pain it static stuck to everything and I did not want it in the odo and trip meeter gears or speedo disc. For some reason I wanted to use the pathy ODO an the orange trip letters for the left side(for my MPG calculations)... I know it looks silly, I'll go all white for the meeters next week. I shoulda just used the stanza ODO unit because the pathy one needed allot of calibrating(shortened the speedo spring by 2.5" for those who understand speedo calibration). BUt its done for now, I need a break... Next week I will go all white meeters (like I should have) and try to even out the light distubution of my blue LED's. Oh yeh and some how I messed up my tach So I'll need to get the new tach motor from the stanza to solder in. that should be fun to calibrate... unless I get lucky find a whole tach unit from a V6 pathy. Yes kingman, that is bedliner on speedo, tach and guage bezel. I thought it would look cool

1 your axle will be off center if you don't. mine was to the right about 1/2"

If you need to change the Anchor bolts you will need to remove the LCA's unless you cut them out and put the new ones in backwards. If you do take the LCA's out be sure to switch the front axle bolts so the heads are facing foward(if they aren't already) that way you won't have to pull the LCA's again if you ever have to pull the front axle (req for diff change and engine change). Also note the threads sticking out the backside when you do either my axle bolts had to be cut by 8mm to clear the LCA and I'm sure new anchor bolts if put in backwards will have to be pretty short to clear the axle. T-bar very little play in the anchor side, It should be in far enough that only about 1/8" of the splines are showing before they taper out. About 1 degree of deflection will cause it to bind and the installer must have thought it was all the way in. The ajuster side has more free play and should have a snap ring in the 2nd groove aft to keep everything in place. If it was in the 1st groove(made for the dust boot) or not there at all I can see how the t-bar would not be all the way in the anchor. lastly the 3d grove should rest with the back side of the crosmember inside it.

hmm I checked marlin and trail gear, I didn't see em...

SO all this does is help gound continutiy between the manifold and the block? That's slimpler than the TSB makes it sound lol. Good job, and way to get yourself a 90% markdown and free labor

Looks like they were already tilted for a BL, I would have them welded directly to the frame & centered between the wheels. Do a mockup first and see that they come out far enough(you can always shorten the legs if too long) and if they come up high enough to look good w/ your BL. worst case you can always have the legs cut off and new ones welded to avoid blocking body mounts and to achieve desired position. I can't wait to see em on your rig, take some pix of your mock-up too!

That's pretty neat that the 8228 @ 35K volts seems like it's more within range(spec from summit) looks like it will fit the stock backet and maybe the stock plug. but the Nissan coil is female so you'll still have to modify 1 igintion wire. As far as being the same as the nology are you talking about Voltage (45k) or Primary/Secondary resistance and Iductance as well? these are other factors that effect compatibility. Good find tho, I'm looking foward to their reply

So your trying to add a glow ring arround the key? Will this be lit @ all times or Just @ night or just while the dome light is on? as for the LED, remove it so you know the physical size and go to radio shack. Buy a new led pref in the 4-6.5v range or a 12v if you want it brighter (if its small enough) Google "LED resistor calculator" input the information about the LED you have and 13v as your input voltage. then go buy the resistor it tells you you need and solder it on the + side of the LED...

vg30s I beilve was the name of the carb'd vg30 and it was found in the nissan cedric.

FUnny I liked it better with just the rear.

It will allow more individual wheel movement, greater drop... Its advantageous for flexy maneuvers to have it removed.

Here's where I started: http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...ompass&st=0 I Found mine unit on e-bay for 20 bucks; you need to splice a wire with your speed sensor to make the compass update and you need a thermosensor from an r50. If your mech speedo does not have a sensor on the NEEDLE I have a spare 1. You'll need the lower mirror to see arround the unit R50, 80's Stanza, maybe a late 80's accord Just go to the JY I was surprised to find how many cars ran the same bolt pattern for the mirror. (may even have a spare) It shows; Direction- programable declination for your location Temp - C or F and displace the word "ICE" @ about 32F Holds (small) sunglasses 2 Map lights Sunroof controlls (or switch blanks) I Don't have any pix of my own yet. I'm about to go into my work schedule and may be too bussy or 4get. If you want me to take pix PM me on tuesday.

Hmm. Maybe on the Pre-90 the blower and rear defroster(Heavy load Items) are wired to trigger the solenid when used and in the 90+ or late93+ have a load sening circut that automatically kicks up when needed

Hmm, mine donesn't. The idle picks up when I use the blower, Rear Defroster and AC(I know the AC is a differant solenoid). But not when the fan kicks on. Is there a load sensing circut that I may have bypassed? I wired power directly to the battery.

FYI on the Rear DISC pathfinders the Parking brake drums ARE NOT self Ajusting. if you can't get it w/in range using the diagram above and the threaded ajuster on the cable; cut one side where the L & R cables Link crimp a new ball ball end on it. Since your cables have stretched for 20 years they are not likely to stretch much more whereas a new one would.