MY1PATH

redline mt90 will help your tranny in the cold(expensive but well worth it IME) I would also look into changing your clutch fluid. I do not know if there is a low temp fuild out there but A am sure that particles supended in old fluid could impact its viscocity when that cold.

Good luck man. It could be something totally diferant than what I suggested and staying open minded will help you find it if its something differant.

Is it aloso getting colder there? the tranny may be shifting slower when its cold.

stick a turkey thermometer in your radiator near the upper hose. If it can't get above 150 you are definately wasting gas. For the greatest fuel eficiency the coolant temp should stay as colse to 180F as possible.

15x10 rim may put allot of stress on the IFS. I would stick with 15x8 with 3.75-4.0 BS as a good universal fitting for these rigs.

backspacing was 3.75 for the alloy rims (15x7) the steelies may have been 3.5 for something like a 15x6?

your on a good track. I've spent the last 2 yrs gathering Knowlege for my custom engine build and it may be another 2 or more years before I actually do it.

the common phrase here is 3+3= 33's thats BL + SL = tire

I think they told me something like 60 bucks when I called. but then I made my own. the upper hole is slotted and there is a nudge screw on the side. Tightening the nudge screw while the upper and middle bolts are loose pivots the bracket arround the center bolt for axle centering. once centered the setting is locked in by a jam nut on the nudge screw and by tightening down the upper and middle bolts. Somone on here reccomended designing a bracket that raises the axle side of the bar instead of dropping the frame side. In theroy this would raise the roll center and make it more stable. I may try to do that one day.

remember that dyno sheet I showed you? 3500 was my peak torque. I also have a stock dyno from an old nissan ad showing 2800 as peak(iirc) for a 1990. I guess it may also depend on how your exhaust is set up too... that may make it higher...

Returning from our thread jacking... I want a 6spd too, but I don't think its gonna happen. but I have a plan... after I do my engine upgrade I will be doing "higher Hi and lowere Low"; 4.1 gears from 4x4 parts to reduce higway rpms and lower low range gears for my t-case to my offroad torque won't suffer any from degrading to 4.1 gears. Yeh gears and possibly cases are expensive but so would retrofitting a 6spd to a 4wd and the outcome is similar.(unless you really must have that 6th gear)

the marks are just for the inital install as long as you have the correct # of teeth between marks you're fine. Rememer its a 2:1 roataion ratio so if you turn it 12xT (T=teeth on the cam)the marks will line up again.

1) its farily simple, its more work getting to it than it is changing it. Haynes should put you in the right direction. 2) 5w30 is a good choice for winter and a little lifter tap on an old engine @ startup esp after stting is normal. if it persists (more than 30-45sec) or comes back while engine is running try running seafoam or atf 100mi b4 the next oil change. If that don't help consider changing the lifters. 3)50/50 is fine, coolant is actually LESS thermally efficent so running more coolant 75/25 in the winter can speed your warm up. 4) I belive nissan used to offer 180 deg thermostats for colder climates. 175 or 180 will do you fine all year round. (I use a 175 and its fine, 15 deg rt now and it still warms up fine)

I had my pathy over 90mph right after I installed my HooHaa CL, it was lifted just over an inch the alignment was good and all sterring compnents were sound. It felt pretty decent but I think I grew a few gray hairs getting to that speed. I also found @ that speed the stock brakes felt useless untill I got below 80 mph(then they started to slow me down). maybe the rotating mass of a 31" tire @ 90mph was just too much for the stock brakes to grab.

there is aloso a bump pad on the hood hinge. if the gasket for the pad is worn out or gone it will squeak as the pad rubs on the firewal. IME this sounds like its comming from the dash when you hear it.

if you wanna change the rockers and safts buy some new ones(if you can) and they are pretty self explanitory. I think its just the lifters that tick, when they wear out they don't hold on to oil as well so after the vehicle has been sitting they drain out and tick is the sound of a hydraulic lifter collapsing becasues its empty.

have you lifted the vehicle at all but cranking the t-bars? IF its too hight the cv's will bind making a similar noise.

and to point you in the right direction... put your lifters in a bucket with oil, suffle them arround everey step to get the air bubles out so the oil soaks better. drain about 1 gallon or more from your radiator, this will make things less messy when you take of your manifold. unbolt thottle body and coolant hoses from manifold let it hang to the side, begin removing manifold once manifold is off remove valve covers starting @ each end alternat lostening each bolt on the rocker shaft (1/2 turn only) when you get to the center do a 1/2 turn on the ones you didn't get. repeat the process doing full turns this time. Keep repeating but don't do more than a full turn utill there is no load on the rocker shaft from the valve springs. finish removing rocker shaft. remove lifter galley and replace lifters(remember you shook'em in the bucket every step). If the flat of any lifter looks exessively or oddly worn by the cam you may want to consider a new cam or haing the old one re-condidtioned. install lifter galley and rocker shaft slowly following the same sequence as above. (don't forget to use torqe wrench to spec) replace valve cover gasket if neede and then valve cover. replace everyting else and top off your coolant. that may not be everyting but it will get you in the right direction.

12 lifters 2 Gaskets for valve covers intake manifold gasket throttle body gasket oil 5w30 coolant philips screwdriver metric socket set torque wrench

last I checked they were $10ea with my N4W dicount, but u can always ask Alkorahil to hook u up too.

OR you can do Like somone did on a jeep and make a tampon holder for the leak. http://jalopnik.com/5239651/how-to-change-a-jeeps-tampon

get your lifters from abcnissan.com they have the best price. and be sure so soak the lifters in oil and aggitate them while soaking before you install them. this will reduce premature wear and make them stay quiet longer.

not the whole compressor but im sure the bearing for the compressor clutch would not like the dirt as much. or if it got sutck engaged or stuck dis-engaged. I had the clutch bearing start draging whenever it was disengaged and it made a horrible squeal untill I sprayed some lube@ it.

I high nickel rosin core solder should hold fine. If it got hot enough to melt solder you'd a broke down long ago because your ecu is FULL OF SOLDERED CONNECTIONS!

stick with 10w30 and 5w30. It does make a differance. the reason synth is frowned upon w/ older engines is because it has a greater potential to leak. If your seals are holding up fine when you use synth and you don't seem to be losing any significant ammount between changes then your fine. If you develop a leak you can compromise with blended synth and see if that helps b4 going full dino oil.