beastpath

did you have to upgrade your wiring btw?

the beeping isnt that bad. ony does it for about 3 seconds

the sender could be faulty too.

I had a sony Xplod CD tray deck, worked really well till a mechanic broke it....I loved that thing... Now I have a pioneer, its pretty good, fairly basic.

i wired it to the windshield washer fuse line, and it works. however, when i turn the truck off the fan will still turn on if the sensor is hot. are all the fuse wires constant hot?

thanks Tom, actually I drilled a hole through the clutch plate, and have wired almost everything up. Still unsure what ignition source to attach to near the fuse box. any ideas anyone?

no one knows if they are compatible?

lol, ok, so i couldnt finish wiring it tonight as I ran out of buttadapters to extend the ground line from the fan. So instead of wiring it just under the hood, I would like to install a switch in the cab. How exactly do I get the wire into the cab? and when Im in there, what can i splice into? some people have mentioned something about going through the wheel well? but i dont have any access panels down there. what is the best way to get through the firewall?

I just installed my taurus fan, everything is connected except the ignition source wire. What is there under the hood that I can connect this to? It needs to be a hot wire only when the ignition is turned on. THNKS!

is it ok to use blue RTV gasket maker?

My door lock stopped working, so after a bit of investigation on here I realized it was probably the snap connector from the key mechanism to the lock mechanism. I went to the dealership and bought the little plastic yellow and white pieces for about $3 and installed them, fixing my problem. Here is the basic install process. Problem: Doors do not unlock with key, lock functions normally otherwise (door lock button works, pull lever works) Diagnosis: Plastic snap connector is broken. Solution: Replace snap connector. Things you will need: Philips head screwdriver Pliers Replacement connector assembly: P/N's 80552-34A00 and 80534-34A05 (1 per door) Process: Step 1 - Take off the door trim to your front door. Make sure your window is up. After unscrewing all the armrest screws, you will have to pop the edges of the trim out of the doors as they are connected by plastic tabs. Pop out the handle frame. Unscrew the manual pull lever and lift up on the door trim. It hooks over the door and should slide off fairly easily. With the door trim off, peel back the plastic protectors to expose the cavities behind that give you access to the lock. Step 2 - Removing the old snap connector. Hanging from the key-lock mechanism you will see an off white plastic piece attached to a rod. This is the retainer for the snap connector and enables it to slide up and down when the key is turned. Reach your hand inside and grab this piece. Turn it to the left so that the plastic clip at its top comes off the rod it holds on to. The connector is on the inside. Slide both plastic pieces off the rod. Step 3 - Replacing the snap connector. Assemble your new snap connector with the white piece inserted into the gap. Place it at the widest part of the retainer, with the knob on the outside. Slide both pieces onto the rod, and seat the rod properly in the hole at the bottom of the retainer(This may take some fiddling). Reattach the clip at the top. Step 4 - Connect the snap connector to the lock assembly. This is by far the most time consuming part as the knob does not compress much and there is very little room to get leverage. If you want you can take some pliers and smush the knob a tad to make it slip through the hole more easily. Place the knob against the hole and push it inside, when it goes in it will pop slightly. Be prepared to spend some time attempting this. Step 5 - Make sure your door locks work and put back together your door trim. Pictures: My broken clip on the left, the new clip and white piece on the right. 1. The lock assembly hole where the clips knob fits. Push hard. 2. Key lock assembly The clip retainer unattached at the top with the new connector in place. Hope this helps some people. It was a little bit of a PITA just because the clip did not attach easily. Otherwise pretty straightforward. Supposedly it will save you 2-300 from taking it to the dealership.

the fact you dont have a tranny cooler shouldnt matter right now. Yes you should get one, but with the new radiator the transmission should be cooled effectively as long as the radiator is being cooled effectively. IMO that looks a tad high. Does it change when you put your AC on at all?

I've done some searching, but got a little confused. Will 4.9 gears for a frontier R200 work with my pathfinder R200? I know the ARB lockers are the same...

neat!

yes, you still need a transmission cooler. they should have told you the radiator was clogged the first time.

rock auto sells replacement plugs

I would junk that radiator fast, get a new one, and before you put it in flush the block as much as you can to get the barrs crud out. A member on here, Slick, used barrs and it did about 10x more harm than good. In the end she had to get a new engine.

some aoto places will check the compression for you, but yes, most will have them to rent.

Heres the topic from when i did my head gaskets about a month ago: Head Gasket Advice It was'nt too bad, but make sure you take it slow.

ok, bought a temp gun today and measured the temperatures at different places. after driving home for about 20 mins with the AC on setting 2, the temp was just above the halfway mark. This was about half freeway, half street driving, with my speed on the freeway not exceeding 65. Radiator hump temp: 179 Thermostat housing temp: 185 Water outlet temp (where sensors are): 191 Then i drove to work, again with AC on setting 2. The first part of my journey I was going about 55-65 mph, but the last section of freeway I take is 75mph. Under hard acceleration the temp guage jumped up to beyond the halfway mark. When I got to work I measured the temps again. Radiator hump: 197 Thermostat housing temp: 198 Water outlet temp: 201 At this point I turned off all my accessories and ran the engine at 2000rpm. This dropped the temp after a couple of mins. The fan stays on all the time, which means the clutch is bad right? I spun it by hand and it only went about a quarter of the way. Could it be stuck on, but not spinning at the correct amount so therefore impeding airflow? Or out of balance so not sucking enough air? It did take quite a beating when my waterpump failed. Oh and the AC sucks now when at a stop. Its cold when at speed though. Used to be cold all the time. Thats another reason I'm thinking fan. *edited

greddy prices are about $200! thats a lot for a guage IMO. if you disconnected the OEM guage sensor wire from the sender could you connect an aftermarket one to it? or does it read differently?

ill just get a hayden fan control then. 35 bucks from summit, and includes the sensor. will run a secondary temp guage aswell, so I know exactly how hot my truck is running.

k, well ill get out the calipers!

yeah, looks just like the one i have. same price at checker/o'reilley auto btw, and no shipping charges.

idk why I would need to disassemble them for that.... i could just measure everything with calipers and do a CAD mock up but reproduction based on thier design would probably be illegal....