Kirk

I like the sound of that... PROFESSIONAL. But seriously Bree glad to hear it turned out. Now go rip that 300zxt for me.

I have heard of this before several times. I think people get so excited to do the work that this first step is often overlooked. To be to discouraged yet. If you have the know how to do your own belt you will be able to take care of your timing issue. You just made a little more work for yourself. If you can't bring the no. 1 cyl to TDC by turning it over by hand (which you may be able to do). Just be slow and stop if you feel any resistance. Just remember OVER BY HAND. If not...... You are going to have to "relax" the valves. You will need a manual to follow. Basic procedure is to remove the valve covers and remove the rocker shafts. By removing the rockers all the valves will be closed alloiwng you to set TDC. You are going to need to remove the plugs so you do not fight compression. If you need further explination PM me your phone # and I'll walk you through it. Oherwise good luck you'll be fine Kirk

Don't hold your breath w/ Black Panther . I highly recommend NOT to purchase from him. I have only had BAD experience from him. Marcel Miller has had my money for over three months for skids he claimed he had "in stock" ready to ship. Have not seen skids or heard from him after numerous attempts to contact him by phone (which is now disconnected) and e-mail (21 times to be exact). He was very responsive when collecting the $$ then fell way short on delivery. Beware. This may just be my isolated case but I remember a post a while back that he had someone elses money without product too. He came highly recomended here on NPORA for a nice quality product. But if you want to give someone $$ for nothing then contact him. Just save yourself the trouble and build your own skids or have a local shop do it. Feel free to PM me if you have any questions or want any specifics of the transaction. And Marcel if you are reading this..... WHARE ARE MY SKID PLATES!

Does anyone know how I can get a hold of RUNNERMAN (Marcel Miller) personally? He has had a boat load of my money for several months without receiving any product. His phone is disconnected and he does not respond to ANY e-mails. He was real easy to get a hold of when I was sending him $$$. But now ??? I know he has not been around on NPORA for a while but just thought I'd give a try. And I guess to warn everyone not to deal with this deadbeat looser . Any info would be helpful, Thanks

Key statement... "if I trimmed the front fenders" Depending how much trimming you do will allow for the bigger tire. So you can certainly run 33's or bigger (it has been done before) with trimming. Near impossible to run a 33 without trimming if you want to turn

Yeah, mine does not have that. Yes it has the "box" connected to the air cleaner housing. Then I have a plastic pipe going back up into the fender. No cold air intake/ram air effect. All tubes are sealed. Maybe your has been modified or just plain different. If yours is that way. then I could see a whole bunch of water getting up in there. Oh well Thanks for the info

Tough to say from the pics. And a little bit of an optical illusion with the rear bumper and flares removed. I am going to say stock suspension because of the reletively flat angle of the front lower control arm and the rear lower trailing arm. On a lifted Pathy these angles are more pronounced than your pics.

Is this true w/ all R50's? My inlet ('98) is located in the left fender well above the tire. With a proper wake I don't think a stock intake would suck in water at 2 feet deep. Mikeysentra you may want to replace or at the minimum check all fluids (fr/rr difs, t-case, trans)not just engine oil, if it sat in the drink for an extended period of time.

I was at an auto museam over the winter. They have a displayed 90's Saab w over 1 million miles on the odo. With original motor and turbo. No joke, full documentation daily driver. No "special" test vehicle.

PM sent

Mike, depending on the lift you go with you may not need them. I have OME and ended up not needing any. Camber was in spec. Can't say for the AC springs.

Just purchased my front, center and rear (t-case) skids today from Black Panther . He is out of Manitoba. Shipping was a bear but am told they are worth it. I think he said this was his last full set for the R50 but has several front skids still avail. I contacted him at blackpantherorders@shaw.ca

Or call your buddy to help out

Ok checked my reciept: I paid $68.79 each from rockauto.com. I called the 1-800 number when I ordered. Total for my two shafts w/shipping was right at $150.00. Give them a call and ask why the price difference, they still might honor it. I'm guessing there probally was a price increase right after I purchased? Sorry, still a fair deal for new units no core. Built well. I actuallt called GSP directly and talked to the tech dept. For a big company I was impressed they spent time w/ me for my silly questions. After all I am not a dealer. Other than they look good, I have not installed them yet because I have several other cars I am working on for the summer race season. Hope this helps.

I just paid $30.00 just for the seals from Nissan. $120.00 sounds reasonable. I want to say Nissan recomends repack at 80k under maintanace guidelines???? But that could have been one of my other cars

XPLORX4 I just investigated this a few weeks ago. Search my postings and you will find out the conclusion I came too. Short version: Buy GSP from Rock Auto. Best price. I just purchased two for approx. $68.00 each incl. shipping. I'll send you a PM with my discount code for even more savings. Kirk Rock auto....just turned onto them and purchased parts three seperate times. No need to price shop anymore they are the best. Fast shipping. your choice on quality of part. Sent PM let me know if you got it

I am 100% SATISFIED. After hearing horror stories of inadequate braking with larger heavier tires I installed a set. I have had only positive braking from the pads (running on non-sloted Nissan rotors). My Super Swampers w/ steel rims weigh in at approx. 70lbs. each, and have had no braking issues what so ever. Highly recommend Green Stuff 4X4 compound you will notice the difference (very quiet too). Kirk

Hey dogy2003. Sounds like you are on track for some good mods. If you have only done "minor" maintanance (i.e. oil/fluid/filter changes) then I would recomend you get dirty and bust your knuckes on the rear springs/shocks. Then take it to a shop and pay to have the front done or at least take the strut assemblies in to have replaced. If you don't have proper tools and equipment it can potentially be a dangerous job. Shop around you'll find the price to do so is reasonable and at least this way your still advancing you skill to more major projects for the future.

Thanks for the response eveyone. I will tackle this project this weekend and have several ideas on how to do it now.

Oops I made a type'o. Thanks Dean for you help and advice on this matter and every other post I've read of yours. Kirk

Got the hubs yesterday....... THE BAD NEWS: They are the 20990 like advertised and will fit Ford, Chevy, Dodge, Jeep w/ Dana 44. NOT NISSAN THE GOOD NEWS: They honored what they said and sent me shipping return labels. And will be sending out the 20991's at the same price for the confusion and my troubles. They will change the catalog error.

Could you turn? I could fit my 32's (before lift) if all I wanted to do was run the 1/4 mile

Where did you bring the wiring through? I am adding 6 lights onto my roof rack (4 front, 2rear) and though of asking here before I drill away.

You can stack however many you want to get your desired thickness. Like selective shims. Many professional race teams including F1 uses shims in suspension components for adjustment. This is what I wanted to do. But after reading ill effects of shims here on NPORA and being able to fit the 32" tire I wanted without them I left 'em out. Moto-M are you just going for the look of a level truck or trying for more lift?