Kirk

Oops I made a type'o. Thanks Dean for you help and advice on this matter and every other post I've read of yours. Kirk

Got the hubs yesterday....... THE BAD NEWS: They are the 20990 like advertised and will fit Ford, Chevy, Dodge, Jeep w/ Dana 44. NOT NISSAN THE GOOD NEWS: They honored what they said and sent me shipping return labels. And will be sending out the 20991's at the same price for the confusion and my troubles. They will change the catalog error.

Could you turn? I could fit my 32's (before lift) if all I wanted to do was run the 1/4 mile

Where did you bring the wiring through? I am adding 6 lights onto my roof rack (4 front, 2rear) and though of asking here before I drill away.

You can stack however many you want to get your desired thickness. Like selective shims. Many professional race teams including F1 uses shims in suspension components for adjustment. This is what I wanted to do. But after reading ill effects of shims here on NPORA and being able to fit the 32" tire I wanted without them I left 'em out. Moto-M are you just going for the look of a level truck or trying for more lift?

Rocky Road outfitters sells them

OK, so I called Auto Parts Warehouse. They guaranteed me they will fit my application (01 Xterra). Actually nice guy to talk with. He said APW number does not cross reference Warns. I thought that did not make sense so he checked the order history for "Warn Nissan Xterra locking hub W3620990" (this is what I ordered) and out of thirty something sets sold and sent not one has been returned. He also added if I am not completely satisfied I will be able to return at no charge. No restocking fee. No return shipping fee. So I thought what the heck, I'll be the guinea pig on this and ordered over the phone $95.88 total. I'll repost when Fed Ex brings them in a few days or so and I will find out what I exactly get. Thanks for the input. I'm just a sucker for a deal. And correct me if I am wrong Warn only produces Premium style hubs for Nissan applications. Kirk

I just google searched Auto part warehouse. Clicked on the first one. filled in the vehicle info. I filled in Nissan Xterra 2001 (but they are the same for R50) then used the parts search box and searched "warn hubs". It comes up with Kia spoartage first but scroll down you will see Warn premium hubs For Nissans part number 20990 for $95.88 + free shipping. I will order them immediately after this post and let you know if it pans out, or if someone will become wise to this unbelievable price. Kirk

Get 'em. that is the cheapest price around. $96.00 + free shipping.

PIAA 520. Great size, light output, looks. Search AMAZON.COM for them. Purchase new. I recently purchased two sets of 520 driving lights. Cost about half of what i was getting quoted locally. $137.00 per set w/ harness shipped to my door. I think the fogs are DOT approved but not the driving.

Assuming you just did a pad slap and that you did it yourself you should have the basic skill sets to determine if you installed them correctly or if a backing plate has delaminated (very rare). My best guess with what you are describing is noise from the lip on the rotor. The old pads were worn and mated with the rotor. Now you have a fresh square edged pad hitting this lip causing the noise. You can resolve this issue several ways. Replacing or turning the rotor to remove the lip and make it true (best route). Or take the new pads and chambfer the top and bottom edges to not contact the lip. Or try EBC Greenstuff performance pads. They come with a bedding in abrasive on the pad that will knock the lip down and provide faster break-in. Unless your rotors are shot (heavily grooved/lipped). I just put a set of EBC pads on my R50 for about $45.00 and the performance advantage was significant for the minimal cost. But i also replaced the rotors. Good luck and don't use oil based products on your brake surfaces anymore. BTW: If WD40 fixes the problem for a day- YOU DO NOT HAVE ANY CLEARENCE/WHEEL HUB ISSUES

I was told by TJM (they could be full of B.S.) is that no one "stocks" TJM bumpers they all get drop shipped to the end user from the south (Georgia I think). However due to the discontinuing of the older model product. AC 4X4 parts has stocked up on some. But no R50's. If you find one you need to play the lottery that day too. Good luck with your bumper search. let us know what you decide to go with. Hurry up Kennesaw with the rear bumpers

The fuel pump may be your problem do not rule it out. Just because you "hear it" does not mean it is 100% good. You say once running everything is normal. If you have fouled plugs or faulty cap/rotor you should be experiencing misfires/rough running under load. What BowTied and I are getting at is the fuel pump is way back at the tank. It takes a while to "prime" the fuel rail with pressure to get sufficent amount of fuel to start you motor. So by turning the key to position 2 and waiting should prime the fuel rail with proper pressure before cranking. Hence my (one way) check valve suggestion. If this is stuck open, every time you shut the car off the pressure drains back into the tank requireing the pump to catch up what it has lost. The one way valve prevents this by not allowing the pressure to bleed back into the tank. A fuel pressure test with a gauge would be the best way to diagnose otherwise the down and dirty way is again before cranking wait or cycle the key several times. I hope this makes sense.

A winch bumper is not a horrible idea for a daily driver (looks cool). It does add more frontal impact protection. I do not know the weight of the kennesaw but it looks rediculosly heavy. I had a 9000lbs. whinch on the front of my Landcruiser for years. Never once used it to recover my own truck. Just other people wheeling past their ability. If that infuences your decision about a winch?

Check valve in fuel pump stuck open and bleeding off pressure when static. Do what BowTied suggested or use a fuel pressure gauge for accurate diagnosis. Let us know what you find out.

I was told recently by TJM that all the older model production has been discontinued. Apparently I purchased the last aluminum T-15 for the R50. I also purchased a T-15 steel for my xterra as that model has been discontinued also. So if you have an older 4runner or ?????? get your TJM bumpers now before their stock is gone. You may be interested in East Coast Bullbars @ www.ecb.com.au but the shipping quote I recieved was as much as the bumper. If not have the patience and get one custom made.

Well, since I started getting legal advice in this post, I decided to do some research myself. This is what I decided to run: GSP Part # NCV53128. GSP is a world premier company and one of the largest manufacture of C.V. components in the world. They manufacture an all NEW Shaft for $68.79 [R50's ](w/ a lifetime warr.). To answer my own question about new or reman. This is what i found out: NEW- Every component is completely new and no core to deal with. Manufactured under ISO certification. REMAN- You are at the remanufactures discression of what they replace. Thats why costs are all over the board. Some reman companys use the old inboard joints and have lower tolerences for rebuilding than OEM specs. The site is www.gspnorthamerica.com. I spoke with the tech dept from the phone number on the site. I was amazed that they spent so much time answering all my questions for a guy only going to purchase one or two shafts from them. They claim to build a shaft that in most cases exceeds OEM quality. So I ordered two shafts today (less than $150.00 shipped). Left and right are the same part number. Nissan wanted upwards of $500.00 for OEM. Most reman units were $100.00 Thanks all for your input.

Just moved to Wisco a few months ago. Lived in indian Hills, Co. Plan on keeping the plates untill they expire. No reason to throw the DMV more money.

Hey, Does anyone have a recomendation or experience with C.V. (constant velosity) joints/shafts? I need a QUALITY replacement. Is Nissan OEM the best way to go? Or is there a good aftermarket company someone would recomend. Also new vs. reman? I just finished my lift and noticed the right inner joint was binding. Being in a rush i did not pay too much attention to it. Now after screwing around in the snow it's making a knocking noise on acceleration. Thanks for the info.

Check fuel pressure with a gauge. The pump may "kick in" but might not be supplying the engine with enough volume to run the engine under load. Thats the only reason I can think of that would describe what your experiencing "as the gas is let off it starts to go again" You may hear intake "popping" due to the lean mixture. Also you say "clean fuel filter..." was this just recently replaced? I have seen two rare occurences where new filters had manufacture defects that would allow intermittant blocking (seen this with Fram filters). When it does not start for you again start with the basics. (I.E. Do you have: Air? fuel? spark? ect.) Good Luck

THANKS ALL. After a long weekend here is my finished product: Old Man Emu springs/struts/shocks 32x10.50 TSL Super Swamper Radials-15x7 Crager soft 8's Warn hubs, Defender roof rack AC poly bushings (front) Rock Road Super Sliders. TJM T-15 front bumper w/PIAA EBC Green Stuff brake pads/Nissan rotors More to come....stay tuned

Try Sam's club if you have one around. They seem to be the best priced. Red top for like $123.00. Yellow top for $160.00. Also you can try Four Wheel Parts. I have been purchasing alot of stuff from them lately and they have just been blowing everyones prices out of the water and offer free shipping. Give them a call they will beat internet pricing over the phone.

let me know i would like to buy them.

Is someone selling the 3/4" spacers or making them? I ordered the Rocky-Road ones but would lrather have the 3/4 inchers Thanks

Just wanted to say hi and introduce myself. I purchased two Nissan 4x4's before I left Colorado and moved to Wisconsin three months ago. I am a Land Rover/ASE master mechanic. I have always been into 4 wheeling/dirtbikes and have done tons of trails in Colorado and Moab. I have loked through NPORA for info and decided to join the club. Thanks. I plant to modify both Nissan's but I am starting with the Pathfinder. I'll get to my Xterra next (one project at a time). This week I ordered a complete Old Man Emu lift (had this on my Landcruiser back in CO and loved it), Rocky Road super sliders and strut spacers, Warn hubs and 32x10.50 Super Swamper TSL Radials. As well as a whole bunch of dealer stuff like-strut plates/bearings, lower ball joints, tie rod ends, seals, ect. Now all I need is a free weekend to put all of this stuff on. BTW does anybody know any wheeling in the midwest??? Thank again bye.