pathmaker1

sorry i meant 1.5" BL. thats the only lift he had with the 33's. the fenders are cut and the fronts are stretched out about 3". i got another 4" of SL on her and will have the 34's on her this weekend. they should fit but i may need to trim. 1 MILLION DOLLARS :tonguefinger:!!!!!!! yea the paint job is really nice. there are a bunch of ghost skulls in the paint job too that were airbrushed on. ill try to get some pics of that. no guarantee the paint/body will stay nice for long.....i wheel HARD!!!!!

ok well the Pathmaker has died.....i spun a crank bearing on it and was going to rebuild the motor with performance parts and SC it when this fell into my lap..... as she sat with a 1/5" BL and 33X12.5 with custom candy paint and stretched front fenders installed my RC UCA's, SAW tbars cranked, JGC coils with 1"spacers, 1/2" BJ spacers, hoohaa CL, warn premies, rear sway GONE, still sittin on 33's she rubs the 33's a tiny bit in the rear so i will have to trim the fenders a bit. gonna throw my 34X10.5 SS LTB's on her hopefully this weekend. its a 1995 pathy, 114K miles, new auto tranny with less than 2K, ABSOLUTELY NO RUST, 4.6 LSD rear, power everything, no sunroof , smittybuilt step bars/rock sliders(untill they fall off). still need to fine tune my front tbars and install all my lights and electrical crap. i got one hell of a deal on the truck.....trading an AC duct system and equiptment and install in the sellers shop for a straight trade for the truck. bluebooked her as $4500 in good condition and my materials and labor come out MUCH LESS THAN THAT......I RULE!!!!!! more pics to come of some serious wheelin. no guarantees on the paint job remaining as nice as it is now :tonguefinger:

i think you mean the other way around Slick. the auto ECU will work for an auto AND a manual but a manual ECU will ONLY work for a manual. thats what i have heard from others and seen with my own eyes on 2 of my buddys pathys who did the swap in their trucks.....from auto to manual tranny swap. auto ECU is "universal" from my understanding.

take home work truck !!! i pay $0/gallon for gas to drive to/from/durring work as well as runnin around town. i may fill up the pathy once a month.....i love employers who give me a take home vehicle with no GPS on it!!!!! however my boss pays about $300/week to keep my tank from runnin dry. i drive about 100 miles a day and get 12mpg in my work truck.

interesting...same general location as the tbelt tensioner. my "ticking" started about 1000 miles after replacing all my belts(minus tbelt) so ill have to check that on mine as well. thanks for clearin that up for me.

if you do your tbelt service yourself it shouldnt be more than about $100 and take 4-6 hours depending on your mechanical skill level. just make sure #1 cylinder is at TDC before removing the old tbelt!!! if you take it somewhere it will run you probably $500+ but i wouldnt know since i dont take my vehicles to repair shops, i do all the work in my driveway while blasting pantera(or other hardcore $hit), drinkin beers, and pissin off the locals/my girlfriend :tonguefinger:

isnt the compressor idler pully on the drivers side of the motor? it seems like its the loudest in his video when he is right around the pass. valve cover or the tbelt tensioner. also i thought the compressor pully is disenguaged and free-running untill you put on the A/C. would an eazy way to check this to be turn on the a/c and see if the ticking stops? ill try to get a video of mine up here in a bit before i fix it so you can compare noises with my motor. hard top diagnose w/o being there in person but like i said before sounds pretty much exactly like the noises coming from my motor which i traced down to the tbelt tensioner. im not due for a tbelt for another 10K but i figure ill just replace it with the pully, water pump today. oh and my pathy always idles about 1200rpm upon initial startup(weather cold or hot outside) for less than 1 minute. the autos have an idle kickdown switch that will bring the revs down to about 450rpm for normal idle....not sure if the manuals have this kickdown switch too. Rich

timing belt tensioner is going bad.....same thing is going on with mine. horrible tick/knock but way too loud for it to be a lifter? hows performance? any lag or hesitation? mine just started doing it out of the blue about 2 weeks ago so i parked it and was prepared to rebuild the bottom of my motor till i got a stethescope and located the sound at the tbelt tensioner. thought it was the oil pump but i got the EXACT same thing as you do...and oil pressure is OK....goes away with higher revs but absolutely horrible when idleing. no performance loss whatsoever either. my tbelt tensioner is taping against the cover. hopefully this helps!! if it is the tensioner i HIGHLY RECOMMEND replacing tbelt and water pump and CHECK THE TIMING!!! you could have/can jump the timing when the tensioner goes bad.....thats what happened to my trooper i had years ago and destroyed the motor(warped the head and threw a rod). Rich

haha i just noticed that comment.....and NO you cant have the pathmaker frame!!! ....but i will have a 88 2door frame and 90 4door frame soon(as well as the rest of the truck) that are also 99.99% rust free with all the undercoating still in tact :tonguefinger: im becoming a collector...

i dont but then again im trying to blow mine up . gives me a real reason to swap in my manual since i have been putting it off for like 6 months :tonguefinger: but yea IF you get reverse back put in a big freakin tranny cooler in there and bypass the stock one internal to the radiator....something like 20K GVW is what i was considering untill i lost my mind

try doing a tranny flush. works for some including mine. i flushed my tranny 2X after loosing gears 3&4 and it has been holding up for about 10K miles. also change the tranny filter and add some lucas tranny lube in her. i got 1Q of LUCAS tranny oil in mine and it seemed to help even more. after that if it works or not start looking for another tranny you can rebuild yourself in your spare time or swap a manual into her like ill be doing shortly... Rich

you do understand the UCA's do not lift the truck, but rather make it possible to achieve a descent alignment after crankin your tbars and returning your cv angles to close to stock. not necessary but recommended depending on how much you crank your tbars. i will also have some AC UCA's and tbars in a couple weeks. ill keep you posted. you can always crank your tbars and install some UCA's down the line. UCA's shouldnt hold you up on "lifting" a pathy

you lookin for stock or aftermarket? i got some stock UCA's layin around.

this is where i almost flopped. rear wheel came off the ground a bit...it was awesome!!! rollin on 34's with no fender rub and no body lift!!! i stuff em pretty damn good too. it was a great time and after i fix my junk ill be back at it again!!! starting to aquire SAS parts now and should be SASed within a year. i cant wait!!

well it was a blast. had 9 rigs there. i ran blues and blacks and came out with a bit of body damage and a damaged tbar hanger/tbar crossmember but all in all a great time and everyone drove home. here are some pics of the trip. my pathy can do a lot more than i thought!! this pointy rockclaimed my tbar hanger/crossmember nice 88 yota with37's, 5.23's locked front/rear, SASed, dualing tcases, lowest ratio 108 to 1 he was on the front pass tire only befor this pic...should have flopped

well my truck is done untill i go SAS. prep: progress: finished product: the line is straight but the small pic destorts it so it looks wavy. im very impressed on how thick it went on. seems like it will stand up very well to rocks and such. ill let you know how durable it really is after Rausch Creek next weekend. Rich

the lift will not give you ANY extra ground clearance. the only way to increase ground clearance is with bigger tires. a suspension lift is essentially a ride height adjustment... and if you are saggin a bit in the ass you could just get some new coils meant for the pathy and run 31's just fine. also crank your tbars a little to eliminate the sag up front....if there is any.

i have no idea what model i have....its a 1992 and been tryin to figure it out for some time. i have power windows, lock, mirror, cruise control, sport suspension(even better now), roof rack, discs all around, tire carrier, factory fog lights(no more), fender flares(no more), leggo wheels with 31 x 10.5 stock, alarm, a/c, tilt steering wheel, sun roof, rear "wing", 4.6 gears with LSD, tack, volt meter, oil meter, temp meter...basically every bell/wistle. anyone know how i can confirm which model i have just for personal reference?? the only thing i dont have is crome bumpers and leather interior which is great. Thanks Rich

buy a honda hybrid or at least something with better aerodynamics than a brick :tonguefinger:

well heres a couple pics of my rims for you to chew on....sorry about the nightime pics i forgot. ill have the finished product with the sides hurculined up next weekend hopefully. yep just sanded them down a bit with some 320 grit sandpaper(tedious!!!), laid down about 6 coats of flat black primer, shot em with about 4 coats of semi-gloss high temp spray paint. they dont look to shabby in my opinion. they look even better in daylite.

i was runnin 31 x 10.5 when i first got my pathy stock and had no issues....i even had the fender flares on back then too.

X2.....id just go ahead and hurculine it. that stuff holds up great and has a semi-gloss finish. im hurcin the sides of my truck within the next couple days to "hide" the fact that i cut my fenders(with a sawzall :tonguefinger:) as for painting the rims.....i did my $10 powder coating today on my stock leggo rims and they look awesome. i sanded them down, primered them and then spray painted them with a semi-gloss black. they look great IMO as well as to others. ill post some pics up tomorrow so you can get an idea of what your gettin into.

been there and done that ONCE.....in the mud. in the midst of unstucking myself i came to the realization that im going to swap a manual in place of my auto. like you said 88, more control of the vehicle. also the auto will not let you downshift to 1st if you are at a certain speed/rpm. not to mension the fact that if your auto is running hot(which it will on rock trails at slow speeds) it will cause your truck to run hot....unless you bypass the stock cooler that is internal to the radiator and mount an aftermarket cooler....but then you gotta worry about electric fans. the gear selector for an auto is a joke....IMO. i have had lots of problems with it on the trail with gears sticking and so on. but then again this is my first auto 4wd truck so i favor a manual since i have had about 6 of em . Rich

i have since trimmed my rear fenders, installed my 1/4" wheel spacers in the rear, and realized my tbars arent clocked correctly.... flexin with no rub now i gotta remove my coil spacer and reindex my tbars to get the stance level. it is "leaning" toward the drivers side now which is causeing the frame rub on the passenger side. also my tbar hanger is not tucked into the crossmember on the passenger side but i have the same measurements from the bump stops to the UCA's. going to try to fix all this tomorrow as well as finish sealing up my rear fenders. oh and FYI, check for wires BEFORE you start cutting or else you will end up with this: and 4 hours later with about 20 blown fuses you get this: WHOOPS!!!!