pathmaker1

nice max whatcha make yours out of??

ok so 88 the plug in the pic you posted may not be the problem. i was reading up on it and realised that the plug is where the brushes are in the alt to transfer the power to the battery right? well when i push really hard on the plug or shim it to one side or the other it starts charging when running(i know not the smartest thing to do but hey), i disassembled the plug(female going to battery) and everything seems in tact there. the only thing i saw in the wiring schematic is a possible fuseable link very close to the plug or is it closer to the battery? this is very frusterating since it will charge just fine untill i hit a bump.....then i gotta mess with that plug for 5-10 min to get it to charge again. i did clean out the plug and receiver of said plug with some contact cleaner and put some fresh electrical grease in the area with no benefits or changes in this situation. lemmie know what you guys think. im assuming that this is the original alt but cannot be sure b/c previous owner is a moron(but thats why i got it for $500 when it needed only a tstat to fix the overheating issue....he swore the block was cracked and engine was shot tho it didnt smoke or run rough...so his stupidity and my knowledge/common sense is my gain)!!! Rich

From Norfolk, VA but wheel a lot in nags head and hatteras NC as well as northern VA and some parts of PA. going to MOAB after the SAS Rich

ok so i jiggled the wires going to that plug you showed 88 and it started charging. all lights got brighter and i went to about 14.5 volts which is where she usually is happy at. so my next step is to replace this plug right? should i look at a j/y or go oem from the dealer? also while fussin around that area a wire going from the "bolt on" wire on the alt got broke off. this wire is like a self ground going to the alternator itself. it goes from the area protected by a rubber boot to a small cylinder lookin thing.....almost like a resistor. seems to work with it not attached but what is this wire? cannot see it in your pic but doesnt seem like a pathy alt there....at least doesnt really look like mine. this wire seems like it would come with the alternator in that way.....like i said already going from the main wire area to the alt itself. i think its time for a new alternator soon.... Rich

i have to look at it again but the "loose" plug has 3 outlets. it is a female however. could it be a 3 outlet on mine? i have a 92 pathy v6 vg30e wd21. ill look at it in the light again tomorrow morning and see but if it could be a 3 prong let me know. ive never seen an alternator just die with no signs or sympoms such as a squeel or straining the motor. i dont know how old this alt is. it could be original for all i know. i did loose all power a few months ago but it was after bein under water for about 15 min(almost upto the window). i shut the truck down immediately to prevent hydrolocking the motor and think it was the belt slipping cause after everything dried out a couple hours later everything was back to normal. at that time i lost power steering also. like i said a few hours of it sitting and idleing it was fine. no squeels or funny sounds and my volts have always been 14+ even with all lights on(110W high beam and 4 x 100W offroad lights) and the heater fan on high with the A/C running. no engine complaints or alternator problems. Thanks for all the help guys!!!! Rich

btw my volt meter is only reading about 11ish amps and when i hit the brakes with my lights on my amp lite and A/T lite come on at the same time. when i let off the brakes the lights go off

it doesnt look like it broke off or anything and is DEFINATELY a ground wire. it is attached to the chasis with a braded flat wire. it looks like it has not been attached to anything in quite some time....no fresh metal from a bolt/nut. i did remove my intake box and modified my MAF "holder" for my cone air filter. this ground wore would be located under the stock air box bolted pretty much to the drivers side wheel well just about dead center of the wheel well. ots pretty much under the emmisions charcoal gas fume filter canister. make sense yet? i dont know if i am explaining this well at all but im trying. i dont want a remaned alt from the local auto store but i have no other options if it is bad. i got a job interview tomorrow at 4pm and assured him i have reliable transportation. wouldnt look to good if after the interview i asked him for a jump grrrr i should have ordered that 160A alternator already!!!! if i decide to go with the nissan quest 100A alt from the auto store is it pretty easy to install. i have briefly looked at the posts in here about it but not too seriously since i was planning on the 160A one that is a direct bolt on. Rich

ok so i noticed it yesturday but its worse today. my alternator seems to have stopped working. i dont know if it is the alternator or something else. this is what i got: on the alternator where the wire to the battery hooks up is another plug on it that is just dangling. the plug is a female with 3 electrical prog recesses. it is attached to the alt at the same point that the battery is attached. also near the alternator i have a ground wire attached to the chassis but connected to nothing. the end of it is setup to be bolted to something. it is metal piece with a hole in the middle of it. i disconnected the battery while running and the truck dies immediately. dont know if that plug has something to do with it or not but worth a shot. i have not wheeled it in a while nor have i heard the alt swqueeling in the past few days it just seemed to have stopped working. i cannot find a place for this female plug. i have looked all around and it doesnt seem to go anywhere. the only place it reaches that would make any sense is the shock controller for the stock adjustable shocks that i no longer have. i think i will try again in the daylite but probably take it down to the auto parts store and get it tested. let me know if there is something i have overlooked or if anyone knows where this plug goes. Thanks Rich

thanks 88.....didnt have that on my list. they looked similar but i see now how the auto wont work! i would have forgot that!! what about the bellhousing bolts. i heard that they are special treads produced by nissan and no others will work... so i just bought a manual tranny a week ago with all clutch lines and petal. got a call from a buddy today who has a FREE rebuilt tranny with less than 1000 miles on it from an 88 that i can have. i just gotta get rid of the vehicle for him. he is going to take the engine only and was nice enough to pull the engine with tranny so it is sitting in his garage!!! he is going to be bolting it upto an auto tranny so everything i need will be on it. SCORE!!! i now have 3 transmissions. it is a good thing since i will have the donor vehicle right next to me in case i forgot something the manual i got from the JY will be for sale possibly. in VA. if so it will be $300 with cluch lines/petal or $250 for tranny only. Rich

i am doing it in about 3 weeks and im going to take pics and write up a how-to from what i understand it is pretty straight foward. pull auto tranny, torque convertor, pilot bearing. replace the rear main since you are there(thats what im doing). install new pilot bearing for a manual and clutch flywheel throwout bearing, and put the manual tranny in. recommend replacing all tranny seals while it is out of the vehicle as well. run all clutch lines and install petal. there is already a hole in the firewall for the clutch petal to master cylinder. remove the plate. cut down break petal. install clutch damper(mounting holes on firewall already exist on passenger side) and connect to slave cylinder. where the auto shifter comes through you will have to replace the floor plates with the manual tranny plates. the tranny mount is slightly different for the manuals so either get the manual tranny crossmember or drill new holes. im just modifying mine. the only thing is the 93-95 manuals have a speed sensor and the pre 93's have a speedo cable. they seem interchangeable at the tcase but i wont know till i do it. if it doesnt work i will not have a working speedometer im changing the tranny fluid while i do the swap. make sure to add an extra 1.5 quarts of fluid. total capacity i believe is 5 quarts. im going synthetic as well. you will probably want to get all crossmember bolts b/c they will more than likely sheer. the dealer wants $150 for the crossmember bolts and bellhousing bolts.....sucks but seems the only place to get em at. you need the bellhousing bolts from the manual as they are longer and i think the manual uses 2 more bolts than auto. all the electrical plugs to the auto will no longer be used as well as the tranny computer so you can remove all wiring or just disconnect. like i said i will be doing it in a few weeks and post a how-to as well as pics Rich

bump and i will be going with this 160A alternator in a few weeks. should be a direct bolt-on for $220 brand spankin new with an optional $100 lifetime warranty. im goin the ez route with a few more amps http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...4.cWAT.m240.lVI one question tho. it says 100A at idle.....when is it 160A? are alternator amp ratings at idle speed? if so i may reconsider as i am going with a dual battery setup for my lights, winch, 15A power invertor, air compressor, and stereo system. as you can see im gonna need some POWER!!! may have to go with 2 extra batteries but im not sure yet. Rich

i have my sway removed and have no such thing happening to me. i noticed little to no change on street driveability w/o my rear sway at risk of thread jacking.......what is the panhard rod for? all this talk about it being another sway bar doesnt make much sense. i dont think thats a "removeable" part. my buddy had a similar situation but his pathy was dippin down toward the right rear when acceleration from a stop. it ended up being a combination of bad rear shock and rear control arm bushing. pretty ez fix Rich

92 SEv6 with a lil over 185K. replacing the tranny cause its gettin tired plus the rear main is leakin. goin to a manual tranny this time though. other than that all thats been done is a tstat, starter, battery, and 2 timing belts, and lots of oil changes . replaced shocks b/c of my lift and went with warn hubs but the autos were fine. still have original CV's and the boots are in great shape.....no cracks!! just noticed a little 1" x 1" bubble rust starting behind the right rear tire at the bottom of the fender but no frame rust at all. the pathmaker is runnin great!!!!! Rich

the only thing with the transfer case that is different in i believe 93-95(whenever the dash changed) is those years use a speed sensor. the earlier years use a speedometer cable. i am swappin a manual out of a 95 pathy into my now automatic 92 pathy. all you gotta do is remove the speed sensor(last "plug" in the all the way rear of the tranny) from the newer tranny and install the speed cable from your vehicle. that is what i will be doing. seems like it will be a direct matchup. the little gear on the end of either the speed sensor and speedo cable look identical. i have already compared them. when you remove that sensor fluid will come out if the tranny hasnt been changed so be careful. also i would check the tcase chain since you already got the tcase out. i will be checkin mine and replacing if it looks too worn in my opinion. yea that is some gnarly frame rot man!!! my frame still looks brand new!!! undercoated from the factory and i try to hose it off real good after every trail run but at the least keep the drains free as said above. GOOD LUCK hope this helps Rich

i go with el cheepo lights so that way im not mad when they get cracked from road debris....i think i paid $40 for both of these at your local auto parts store. they are 100W 6" i made a bracket and used the round head bolts on the bumper to mout them with. NOT THE BOLTS HOLDING THE BUMPER TO THE FRAME!!! there are 2 extra bolts on either side of the liscence plate that i used. it looked good too. kept the lights about even with the bumper so it didnt block the headlight spread or the radiator i now have 4 of em set up on my brush guard like this: goin to a manual tranny in a few weeks so im not too worried about the little bit of radiator i blocked. also i will probably remount the top 2 lights after i put my winch on in a few weeks. like i said i go for the $20/each lights from where ever. you can pick up a cheap relay if you dont already have one from the factory optional fog lights. i dont think my truck came with fog lights from the factory but the switch was already in my truck as were the wires and the relay. i have them straight wired through a switch to my battery for now but im gonna steal the factory relay and use that soon. just got em on for now cause i have lots more wiring/lighting to do including 2 100W "low pro" lights in rear that will come on when i engage reverse as well as an "optional" on setting thru a 3 way toggle. these lights did not come with wires or relays but i have loads of wire just lying around. i make my own wiring harnesses. if your not keen to do that you may want to go with a set that will include wiring harness and a relay. i did however fuse the wire coming off the battery BTW. making your own wiring harness is pretty easy. i found that 14AWG stranded wire is easy to work with as well as sufficient size to carry the load. no problems so far Rich

advanced auto matched the amaon.com price for WARN premium hubs....$130 and i got em the next day so i would go with that. and if you think you may need 4wd just lock em before you DO need 4wd

why do they say 93-95 on that ebay site? i have a 92 and the tail lights look identical to a '95. think they would fit on my 92 pathy. dont see why they wouldnt i thought all the WD21 pathys (90-95) had identical body styles. anyone got these guards from this guy on ebay on an earlier than 93 pathy? Rich

im tryin to find the best hubs for me 92 pathy SE-V6 4dr 28 spline axle. money isnt the issue but i dont like to spend it uselessly. on 4wheelparts(dot)com i found mile markers for $91, Superwinch for $136 and Warn for $173. all have free shipping with order. just tryin to figure out what is the best bang for the buck now. i dont want to go "cheap" because of the importance of this part but if mile marker is comparable if not equal to warn then why waist the $$. shoot i could have 2 pair of hubs from MM for almost the price of 1 pair of warn! Thanks Rich

i found 2 28 spline hubs from superwinch on 4wheel parts dot com. part #SWI400543 and SWI400528. the first part number specifies 6 bolt while the second M# doesnt specify bolt pattern. i guess ill search for a poll on hubs. i found mile markers for $91, Superwinch for $136 and Warn for $173. all have free shipping with order. just tryin to figure out what is the best bang for the buck now. i dont want to go "cheap" because of the importance of this part but if mile3 marker is comperable if not equal to warn then why waist the $$. shoot i could have 2 pair of hubs from MM for almost the price of 1 pair of warn! Rich

u sure?? ive seen all over the 92-95 V6 is a 31 spline. you got a warn part #?

whats the best brand......im assumin WARN but what about superwinch or mile markers? are they all comperable?

i am havin trouble findin warn hubs for my pathy. its a 92 sev6.....i believe its a 31 spline and all i can find is for the 4 cylinder 28 spline. where can i get a set for a good price? id like warn but also consider mile marker though i havent researched them much. Rich

thats what i thought......and since the pig tails are cut than thats a no go.....too bad i talked the kid down to $50 for the set.....anyone need em?

i have a 92 pathy with JGC coils in the rear and found a guy on CL sellin 2" spacers for a 93-98 JGC. will they fit on the pathy. anything i need to worry about puttin these in? Rich

4x4. what alternatives do i have puttin a manual in her? pathys are few and far between in the jy here and all of em are auto anyway. will one outta 300z work or is the gearin different? would say nissan quest but i doubt they made it manual. what about other manufactureres of vehicles.....toyota, isuzu anything?? i want pretty much a straight bolt on. im about to just but a new one and be done with it but thats gonna be 2k at least!! my auto tranny not gonna last too much longer. figure if i do go new is there a better/stronger one that wont be too much more than OEM? Thanks Rich