94extreme

dude, i got many ideas.. give me a direction. west is far. utah is more then 1 day in the seat.. it'll cost you an arm and a leg but would be fun.. i think the weather someone refered to here is snow.. lot's of snow... so much that your truck is probably better off the mountain.. just my 2c.. anyway.. depends how far you want to go.. MN, UP of MI (look up Hurons on MXO) are ~6-8h from chitown, it's great up there but that late there is bound to be lots of snow.. feets of it! and it could be way cold... KY, TN, WV, PA are about the same distance... all those places have lot's of wilderness/off roading opportunities.

yeah.. lot's of discussion about "cup holders" here a long while back.

hopefully that's all full. ^^^ it could be the switch in the e-break too.. haven't heard of too many going on pathfinders but doesn't mean yours can't be the first.

check your tensioner pulley, zbrat.

variable displacement A/C compressor

you sure about this mws? mine is on or it's off.. it doesn't cycle like that, ever. the only time i can tell through power is when i kill it on big uphills (highway.) the truck get's a decent surge.

yeah, techincally those 2 but it kind of works out to these 3: rotor/dizzy case/engine head. first, mark the dizzy position on the head, when you pull up on the dizzy , the rotor will spin CC (?) so try to start at TDC and then mark the spot it turned to.. then set your replacement dizzy the same way and insert and then try to position it the same way as the other one was in relation to the head. if you're close it will run good. if you're off even one tooth you'll know.. if the adjustment to the head is not close to the original position then you're off some teeth.

my ecu doesn't look exactlly like the one in the pics either.. from here my guess is as good as mine.. just remember where you started.

so did you even do the plugs, rotor, cap, wires? pulling out the dizzy ain't hard but you have to pay very close attention. you have 3 things moving and you need to keep their relation the same to be on time. CPS is in the dizzy.

ever notice anything in here? http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showforum=28

i don't know why the early years wouldn't work.

the main issue for me is that they are already frameless.

lol.. definitely try the above.. then run ecu codes but i bet your alt is going if not gone already.

a friend of mine has been looking for a car and he said there are a butt load of pathfinders for under 3k all over the place.. good luck finding one with an MT around here though.. very, very few.. i just stumbled onto mine somehow... i can't remember now but for some reason i am thinking mine came from CO anyway. look there.. might be worth a while.

^^^ sure, why not?.. there are some differences.. dash for sure.. not sure when they switched from TBI to EFI

imho, the fan speed has nothing to do with how hard the AC works. i get the same milage with windows down as i do with AC on. I also noticed that my truck cools the best when the fan is on 2 when super hot. i have no idea why but maybe the condenser is unable to keep up with the airflow when it's sweltering.

swimmmer, that's too bad man. it would help though, if you gave us your location and what parts you may have. good luck

i don't think there is one for a 93 or before in electronic format.

yeah, somewhere

-bounce- i haven't kept up but glad you're coming to some senses.

best bet would be to find out what tranny is normally attached to this "Z" motor.. if the numbers match then it may be just a bell housing swap.

we're not reading you say specificaly that you counted the teeth on the t-belt between the 3 sprokets. what were all the other compression readings? can you list them all? are you loosing any coolant? start the motor and open where you put in oil. sucking? blowing? neither? at one place you said you maybe running rich. you don't mention any smells nor blakish/blueish exhaust.. are you sure about it being rich??

that's my guess too although having a tad large difference in compression doesn't sound all that good either. did you wet the cylinders and try again? i'd still bet on a tooth or two off. easy to miss and it will do exactly what you're saying your truck is doing.

check the stabilizer bar drop links. mine are worn out and pop in 1st gear, especially off camber/incline. then check all the other bushings.. there are a few.. visually and also put your hands on stuff and shake it.. if it's loose, it's shot. everything should be tight. oh, most are LSDs but check for an orange sticker (maybe hard to see if your diff is really dirty) if no sticker search for LSD id procedures, it may be in one of the garage sections..

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=21