jitterymonkey

Might want to think about getting rid of those ball joint spacers. If I remember right 88pathoffroad used them for awhile & they caused quite a bit of damage to his stock UCA's. Am I right 88?

Thanks precise1, you've kinda helped me make up my mind & I agree about the body lift. From what I've read here ,it's much easier to work on with a body lift. just not sure I want to install the 3 incher. colbywan, Yes,I'm running 265/75/15 Kelly safari M+S which converts to 30.6/10.4/15 Problem I'm having is finding a good 32/10.5" or metric equivalent for a 15" rim. Only one I've found so far is the Swamper TSL & since I drive on icy roads a lot I want a tire with some siping. Thinking about these http://www.offroaders.com/tech/AT-MT-Tires...Mud-Country.htm Yep,I'm definitly no expert either but that makes sense to me. A taller tire will give you more ground clearance & better approach/departure angles, but I think going from a 31" to a 33" tall tire without re-gearing negates a lot of the advantage. 32" (I think) would be a good compromise.... But, that brings up the subject of tire width advantages/disadvantages because I could only find the Swamper TSL in a 32/10.5/15. A wider tire like a 12.5 (I think) should help you to float over mud/obstacles easier, but causes more wear on the IFS parts & I guess more rolling resistance. Again an 11.5 is probably a good compromise but I don't want to run 11.5's on my 15X7 Leggo's or go to a wider rim. Pretty much decided to install either the 3" suspension or the 3" body lift & run a good 31" tall tire until I can re-gear. Although I'm being tempted by this guy who wants to sell me just the tires for $500 http://akroncanton.craigslist.org/pts/1065577527.html

Well I drive it on the street about 20 miles a day & like to play in old strip mines,gravel pits,muddy fields & gas paths on the weekends. No big rock gardens around here. Just mud,hills,tree roots,scattered rocks here & there & more mud. My original plan was to just run 31's with OME's 1.5" rear springs,a slight crank on the torsion bars & my Calmini steering system. But when I found & bought a 3" AC body lift for $100 & a pair of Superlift UCA's for $150 I started thinking of running 33/10.5's on my Leggo's so I wouldn't have to buy new rims & "so there'd be less stress on my IFS." But if the 33's (without re-gearing) are not only going to cause more wear & tear on the drive train,hurt my MPG & street drivability + cause the WD to be less able to climb hills & get through mud. With the only benefits of a few more inches of ground clearance & having a rig that stands out in parking lot, I'll sell 1 or both of the lifts & run a good set of 31's

Searched through 22 pages & didn't find exactly what I was looking for. Given the fact that (at least for now) I'm sticking with the stock gearing & Leggo's in my '95 3.0/automatic SE WD-21 & the trails around here are mostly hilly,off-camber & covered in slime. Would it be better staying with a slight lift (suspension or body) & 31/10.5/15" tires rather than 33/10.5's? Not to concerned with MPG or passing Escorts at 80 mph on the Hi-way but am worried that with the stock gearing I'll loose all the advantages the 33's will give me. Apples & oranges but I remember easily climbing a steep,muddy hill in my stock Suzuki Samurai with 30/9.50/15 AT's that a lifted '85 Blazer with stock gearing & 35" MT's couldn't. What's better off-road with stock gearing? A. Stock suspension & 31's or B. 3" lift (body or suspension) +31's or C. 3+3 & 31's or D. 3+3 & 33's & yes,I know 32's would be a good compromise but I can only find them in an 11.5" width & don't want to run anything wider than 10.5.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=763645

Can't find the link (this forums search sucks) but AC's UCA's are questionable. They have the same dimensions as stock so they don't do any better than stock UCA's Keep an eye out on all the Nissan forums for somebody doing an SAS & selling they're Superlift/Rough coutry UCA's I'm going to run 33/10.5/15 BFG AT's on stock Leggo's (from what I've heard you don't need to trim using 33/10.5"s on Leggo's) But I'm willing to trim if I have to. Here's what I've gathered so far...... Warn manual hubs Calminis steering kit Ac's 3" body lift Superlift UCA's Found all that stuff used & cheap. Just takes time. just need rear springs & warmer weather Not going with JGC's because I've got a 4 door/rear tire carrier & carry a lot of extra stuff. Will probably go with either AC's or calmini's 3" springs

You'll have to SAS it or do what I did...... Keep your eyes peeled on Hardbody forums for a used set for sale. As more & more people SAS their rigs,more UCA's go up for sale. Now I'm just waiting for the weather to get nice enough for me to lay down in my drive way without freezing to death.

I think Kyosho is the only one that made a 1:10th 2door Terrano/Pathfinder. Ofna made a 1:10th lexan Hardbody body for the Monster Pirate Tamiya made a 1:10th Hardbody & called it the King Cab. All of them rare & very expensive now Can't find the thread I started here, but here's the original post there with the cad pictures if that helps. http://www.scale4x4rc.org/forums/showthrea...ight=pathfinder

Jeep/Toyota guys would rather see something else. http://www.scale4x4rc.org/forums/showthrea...ed=1#post388505

Hey! Don't be bad mouthin' all mini trucks! They aren't all mall crawlers.Datsun/Nissan made a great one.

A Hardbody transfercase shifter works also. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=1884

Washington lawmakers are drafting a large economic stimulus package to help create jobs and rebuild infrastructure. They want to include a nationwide scrappage program which would give U.S. tax dollars to consumers who turn-in older cars to have them crushed, as a misguided attempt to spur new car sales. The lawmakers need to scrap this idea. The stimulus package is being drafted right now. House Speaker Nancy Pelosi (D-CA) wants to introduce the bill on January 6 and have it approved by Congress by January 20, so that President Obama can sign it into law after he is inaugurated. Contact House Speaker Nancy Pelosi IMMEDIATELY To Oppose Cash for Clunkers! Call: 202-225-0100 Click here to send an electronic message: http://speaker.house.gov/contact/ Talking Points Feel free to use any of the statements below as a starting point for your message to Speaker Pelosi. I am [calling/writing] to urge lawmakers not to include a “Cash for Clunkers” provision in the economic stimulus bill. Owners who turn in vehicles for crushing would receive a "minimal" payment to purchase a new car. This is a misguided attempt to spur car sales and claim that the country’s air quality or fleet fuel mileage is being improved. I work for [company name] located in [city and state]. My company is part of the specialty automotive industry, an industry which enables consumers to enhance their vehicle’s appearance, performance, comfort, convenience and safety. “Cash for Clunkers” programs deny our small businesses the availability of older cars necessary to develop and market their products and services. The programs will hurt my company and our customers. “Cash for Clunkers” programs threaten enthusiasts nationwide with the loss of valuable parts and parts-cars for repair, restoration, and customization projects. The programs also risk destroying classic, historic and special-interest vehicles, our American heritage. Cars turned in for scrappage often barely run, or are rarely-driven second or third vehicles that have a minimal impact on overall fuel economy or emissions. “Cash for Clunkers” programs will reduce the availability of affordable transportation and repair parts used by low-income drivers. It will also compete with the Salvation Army, the Purple Heart and other charities that rely on vehicle donations to raise money. “Cash for Clunkers” ignores better policy options. If Congress wants to act, support for repair and upgrade is a better choice and a win-win for consumers, dealers, manufacturers and repair shops. Significant emissions and fuel economy improvements can be achieved in older vehicles through relatively simple and inexpensive means: repaired/replaced exhaust systems, tune-ups, etc. We hope we can count on you to reject “Cash for Clunkers.” Thank you for your consideration on this very important matter. If you choose to send a message to Speaker Pelosi, please send a copy of your message to SEMA also: E-mail: briand@sema.org Fax: 202/783-6024

BUMP What happened? Any progress?

Sorry to here about your rig,but I'm glad your O.K. Just out of curiosity....... Were both front & rear sway bars still on the Pathy? Does not look like you have a body lift in the picture, Do you? What tires were you running? Plenty of sipes? Road conditions? Snow/Black ice? Looks like your treads have snow packed in them. Evasive maneuvers & black ice are two of the main reasons I'm leery about removing my rear sway bar & adding a 3" body lift on the daily driver.

4WHEEL & OFF ROAD magazine named the EQUATOR best new 4x4 over 2 Hummers, a Dodge,Ford & Kia. Only difference between the Zuki & the Frontier is the Zuk has side curtain airbags & a different grill

First, find a very hungry cat Seriously a mouse chewing on all those electrical wires under the dash would be very bad Just put a mouse trap on the passenger floor overnight.

I'd wait to put that switch in. Like I said my rig did that a few times when I first bought it about a year ago then mysteriously fixed itself until it did it 3 times last week. hasn't done it since then & started right up today with a wind chill of -19. Like you, I'm not going to work on her unless I absolutely have to

http://www.schwarttzy.com/

How exactly did you determine it was the ignition switch About a week after I bought my '95 she wouldn't turn over. I read all the posts here & bought a new big blue relay. but never installed it. just mysteriously started working with out me doing anything..... until just recently,did it again a few times I always get her to go though, try holding the switch over for a few seconds in the start position. Did you read these? http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...hl=starter+blue http://www.nissanoffroad.net/messageboard/...g24957#msg24957

I have that problem & found if I bend the wires a little back & forth coming out of the drivers side master switch panel I can get the windows to work. So I just keep my switch panel loose from the door. Have pulled 2 from the Junk Yard so far & neither worked as well as the one I have now.

I've also got a '95 with the rear carrier. Do you know exactly how much lift? Did you cut the pigtail or heat it up & bend it out?

Page 36 has a small generic article on torsion bars. Page 38 has a small picture of a great looking red SAS'd(I think) WD21 Anybodys here? EDIT <I knew I've seen that rig before.... It's AK9849cy's> & last but not least on Page 86 is an article on the new (made by Nissan) Suzuki Equator.

Does this trick also work for WD21's or just R50's? Hate power windows & locks I'm ready to find a non power XE 4 door in the junk yard & swap doors

My opinion.... You by that 2WD X and you'll regret it. Always wishing it was a 4X4 in the back of your mind. I'll never be without 4WD as long as I live here in Ohio. Might only really need it 2-3 times a year but having it during those times makes it worth the extra cost to me. Lot's of people I talk to tell me 4WD doesn't help you when it's icy & I say Bull @!*%! For one, when the roads get icy, it helps maintain control during cornering Remember all that deep snow & ice we got last winter? During that bad storm? No way I would've gotten to work or the grocery store without 4WD. & I think (could be wrong) running open diffs are best for ice. Limited slips are O.K. but a full locker on ice is an accident waiting to happen. JM