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Everything posted by mudfinder
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i have stuttering and bogging even after i change my o2 sensor. my mechanic told me it's from the manifold leak. he said when the exhuast leaks from the manifold, the o2 sensor doesn't get the correct reading of fuel burnt. so the o2 sensor thinks the engine isn't producing enough exaust to make up for the loss, the computer send a message to the engine to give more fuel. my check engine light came on. it gave me 45 fuel injector leak. he pressure tested out and the injectors were in excellent working condition. i don't nkow if it makes sence, but it makes a little sence to me. i mean, i've done everything, timing, o2, pvc valuve, tested my vacuum, fuel filter, air, throttle poisition sensore everything.
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i removed my skidplate from the front and when the engine is running, it leaks coolant. also, when it gets hot it starts that weinning noise. the noise comes from the the middle to the bottom towards the front of the engine. i checked my belts and they seem fine. should my fan blade have any play? my fan blade plays alittle when i move it. i'll go ahead and change the water pump this friday, the furtherest i have to drive is like 2 mins. but i know i should still be careful. we just want to replace a water pump, not an engine. by the way, would i be able to fit a 3.3 or 3.5 w/out any modes?
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the other day, after trying out my locker for the first time, after getting off the trail. i have the weinning noise comming from the bottom of the engine every time i give gas. is it possible it could be my waterpump? i know that my water pump is leaking and needs a new one? any ideas or anybody experience this?
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it doesn't seem that hard. but the cool things is that i found the auto parts store that has rebuild, resealed injectors for 40 bucks a piece. i'll just go ahead and get all six then and replace all of em. saturday it was really acting up, it was idleing at 100rpm and kept boggin out. now, it's acting like there's nothing wrong with it. check engine light isn't on or anything. when the light was on, it gave code 45 fuel injector leak. so i'll replace thso hoping that that it's.
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try it out pickles. only two bolts, i took mine out and fixed my problem. if that's not it, like you said two bolts, it's not going to hurt anything.
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the cheapest place that i found for the injectors were about 130each. the thing is, i really can't tell which injector is it because i was told that i need to pressure test it and how would i test w/out the tool for it?
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hey man, i think i know what it is, i had the same problem. it's that "u" shape bar that's around the driveshaft. i think it's like a support to keep the drive shaft from hitting the ground if it ws to break off. it's connect right under the center console and hits the cross member. it may be that, check it out, i took mine off. if you don't nkow what i'm talking about me, let me know and i'll take a picture and post it up. i'm pretty sure you know what i'm talking about.
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hey guys, i don't remember if you guys recall me saying about my path studdering and hesitating during accelaration, well running like crap. anyhow, my check engine light finally came on..what a relief acutally. it gave me code 45 which mean, fuel injection leak. now does that mean, that i need to replace the injector or do i need new lines as well. i need to do this asap because now, my truck starts bogging out, completely stalls.
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hey 88, when you menchined that with 33's you'll die out you steering, what should be done? steering stablizer? or other goodies. and any ideas to lift the front end only without cranking the t-bars? is there a front end only lift kit for us? no body lift for me though, i don't like bodylifts, IMO.
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since you saving 600 bucks on tires and wheels, why don't you pay 135bucks more for headers and get better headers, thorley's. rocky-road.com has a set for 350 here's the link if you interested. rocky-road.com get rancho rs5000s, if you want to spend a little more rs9000, they always have the buy 3 and get one free deal.
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don't you think he should go with 33's since he's adding a 3-4inch suspension lift? i personally think 31's would be small. 33x12.50x15 would look good with the 4inch lift. if 33 is too big for you, go with 32's. don't go smaller than 32'sx11.50x15. Get 15x8 wheels if you want 15's, 16's get 16x8. If you want 16's i have a set of 16x8 rock crawlers for sale. i personally think calmini is expensive and i'm pretty sure you can get the same height of lift to alot cheaper. but hey, if you got the dough, go for it.
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i've been to every junkyard in my area and i have not seen on Pathfinder. what is the exact term for this button? "power shift button?"
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what's up guys, i have question. the little orange power shift button that is located on the right side of the steering wheel, where can i get that from besides the dealer?
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this locker works so dam great. there is this huge rock where i work and before i had to punch it to get up it and if i let go of the gas the truck would come back down. now it just creeps right up it no problem. today at school, i was messing around a construction site and i was very very impressed :bow: . as far as road manners, i can't notice it. greatest investment i've done. i'm just so happy now -bounce- . i'm locked in the rear!!!
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howdy, i'm in california so i wouldn't know the laws or regulations there in texas, those guys probably answered your question about that. I have my broken studs snice i could remember. i had em when i frist got the path back in high school which was 4-5 years ago. no problem except for the ticking when i first start her up in the cold when it's warm it's fine. don't worry you have a good dependable rig.
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you don't have to do anything special, all you got to do is mark bolt you take out. you don't have to touch the ring gear or anything. i wish i would of taken pictures. from the time we took the gears out and put it back into the housing, i took us 45 mins. that's all. in the differentail oil we added oil stabilizer and you can barely hear the ratchy noises, you can hear it from the outside bu you got to really pay attention to it. so again, nothing special. i seriously didn't think it was possible for me to do, i saved $350. i did it. give it a shot. take your time. plan all day for it because you never nkow what might happen.
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i lifted mypath with the same lift kit you got. i added new torsion bars to crank em up for the "3 inches i don't think i have 3inches in front, maybe 2.75. again, that's with a thicker torsion bar and the uca it came with. and of course the deal with them bumbstops.
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hey fellas, my lock right is in, i tried it going up this telephone pole that's laying around near my house and it work great, i used to spin tires, but now it climbs right up. can't wait tell i take it offroad. it took my buddy and me about 3 hours to do the entire install and it took us maybe 45 mins to put disassemble the gears and put them back together with the locker. we didn't have to take the whole ring gear off. it's pretty cool when i punch it and make a turn, you can hear the tire churp. i left the sway bar off and when i made a left turn, my rear left tire got air, so i put that thing back on. other than, i'm locked yeee-haa. oh yeah, we didn't even use the instructions!! even with the sway bar on, it sometimes feels like it's not on there, it wobbles like the rear end is loose.
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well, tomarrow my locker hopefully goes in. i'll let everyone know how it goes and how it works.
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oh ok, that's makes sense now. thanks alot 88 and everyone else. i hope everything turns out good.
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i did this connect the battery and same results. but thanks for your guys help.
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ok...i checked out my haynes books and it doesn't say anything about disconnecting the ecu after replacing the o2 sensor. statikuz, i don't if you meant that for replacing the o2 sensor or just disconnect it period.
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right on, thanks alot man. i'll try to find it in my repair book.
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regarding the o2 sensor how long does it take until i notice a difference? should i feel a difference as soon as i turn it on after replacing it or will a take time?
