lewisnc100

I've got those in my 97 for towing, you can also get full kit with the onboard compressor. Just the basic set shown is around $70 and takes 1-2 hours to install.

It only takes 3 drive cycles without an error for the MIL to turn off, but only if the specific drive pattern is met with no errors.

Both the 97 XE and LE came with stock 235/70/15 tires and the SE came with 265/70/15 tires. Check the driver's door jamb for the OEM tire size.

Not sure about the years you're talking about here, but if you have a load sensing valve you need to bleed that first.

Chain.

Search for tool OTC7698, I've got that one. Also if you can find it CTA4170 is cheaper but everyone was back-ordered when I was looking.

Mine went at just under 90k with no maintenance. Slowly started to feel a kind washboard effect as the races began to get marks. Replacing the inner and outer bearings and races and inner seals were under $100 in parts and available at about any auto parts store.

Sorry, you're out of luck with 2001+ years. I do have an Actron code reader that runs about $100, very easy. Harbor Freight sells a very simple reader for $39.95, not sure how well that one works. Or there's always Autozone, they'll read it for free for you (outside of CA).

The 96-2000 year Pathfinders have a diagnostic mode selector screw on the ECU. The ECU is located directly above the gas pedal tucked up behind the dash, with the mode selector screw on the top. The steps for the 4-cylinder at the top of the thread are the exact steps for the 96-2000 pathfinders once you find and access that screw.

I get the P0325 Knock Sensor Circuit Malfunction everytime I check. I would bet a very large percentage of 96+ Pathfinder owners have this same error code but don't know it since it does not trigger the CEL. I think the fact that it does not trigger the light says a lot about whether you need to change it. Also I've checked mine at the subharness connector with Nissan steps, and it passes. I don't plan on changing mine since I have no pinging and my MPG is as good today as when I drove it home in 1996.

Nope, just a cut and paste from the service manual.

- Air conditioner off - AT in Neutral - Start engine and warm up fully, do not exceed 1000rpm - Open engine hood and run engine at 2000rpm for 2 minutes under no-load - Perform diagnostic test mode II (no idea if this is required) - Run engine at 2000rpm for 2 minutes under no-load. Race engine (2000-3000rpm) two or three times under no-load, then run engine at idle speed. - Turn off engine and disconnect TPS - Start and race engine (2000-3000rpm) two or three times under no-load, then run at idle speed - Check ignition timing with a timing light (crank has 5 marks, 0,5,10,15,20) should be 15 +/- 2 BTDC. - Adjust timing if necessary by turning distributor after loosening securing bolts. - Turn off engine and reconnect TPS

No problems with the timing marks because I didn't rely on them, I just lined up the RH cam sprocket mark with the rear timing cover mark as close as possible and ignored the other marks. From there I just used the marks on the new timing belt and counted teeth from the RH cam sprocket to the LH cam sprocket, then from the LH cam sprocket to the crank. If you count timing belt teeth you can't go wrong. The cam seal leak wasn't visible at all until I took the rear timing belt cover off, and then there was just a drip.

I changed both cam seals, here's the full list of parts replaced: 21501-0W501 Radiator Hose Upper 21503-0W001 Radiator Hose Lower 14055-0W000 Coolant Bypass Hose 14055-0W??? Small Hose to Thermostat 21200-V7206 Thermostat 13028-0B785 Timing Belt 13070-42L00 Timing Belt Tensioner 21010-0W028 Water Pump 13042-0B001 Camshaft Seals 02117-88023 Drive Belts 11720-0W002 11920-0W002 I have to admit I tore the cam seals apart with every type of seal puller and screw driver I had, they didn't want to budge. Didn't seem to be anyway to get them out without scraping things up. I remembered a post in the past that said to carefully drill a very small hole in the center of the seal, and insert a small screw into the seal until it gets into the spring on the back side. Then just pull on the screw head with a pair of pliers and the seals pull right out. This worked for me but is risky, one slip with a drill bit and you'll have a nasty mark.

I'll bet you its not the water pump, but the coolant bypass hose that sits behind the rear timing belt cover. I just did mine at 107k and this small hose was leaking directly down on to the water pump so it would look like it was coming from there. At the top middle of this pic you'll see the coolant bypass hose connection just behind the thermostat with the water pump directly below that hose. You can see the coolant on the water pump but its hard to see the hose leak until you get everything apart. http://groups.msn.com/LewisPictures/97path...hoto&PhotoID=16

What was the specific EVAP code, there are at least 6 different EVAP codes on your Pathfinder and a bunch of different EVAP components. You might be right on the canister, but if you have the specific code(s) that would help narrow it down.

The exhaust manifold warranty extension isn't just mileage of 100k, its also 100 months. For a 97 your warranty extension is about up. When I had mine checked the dealer refused the warranty coverage, said it didn't apply to my 97. I went through the Nissan 800 number and confirmed that it was covered and had them work with the dealership. I'd call them and let them know your situation, let them get the dealer in line. Key difference in my situation was that I had the dealer check it out before I mentioned the warranty, then they were happy to point out the problem and give me a quote for $500.00. Once I mentioned the warranty they backpedaled and said it didn't apply. By the way the TSB covers the following VIN range: APPLIES TO VEHICLES THROUGH SERIAL NUMBER JN8AR05***W236759

Have you checked the level and condition of the ATF, how often have you drain/fill or flushed the fluid?

The torque spec. is only 61-78 inch pounds for the transmission pan bolts. I found out the hard way how fragile they are and popped one. Easy to drill out and extract though.

I think Nissan is right, it's the inner seals making the noise. But I'm surprised they didn't tell you they had a fix detailed in a TSB (97-014A) for this issue. They came out with redesigned baffle plates that have a dust seal attached so you can remove the original dust seals from the back of the hubs. Supposedly they are designed to prevent this type of noise. The new baffle plate part#s are: Baffle Plate RH 41150-1W400 Baffle Plate LH 41160-1W400 If you get these please post back with prices, next time I lube the bearings I might put these in.

Since you have an automatic don't worry about a fill plug, you just have a drain plug on the pan. Add new fluid via the ATF dipstick tube.

Also do yourself a favor and get a bucket with quart marks on it, replace the same amount you take out.

Not really, it doesn't make any sense that they would have removed the cam sprockets, the rear timing belt cover and then wouldn't go ahead and replace a $3 cam seal while they were there. They probably looked for any signs of a leak with the rear cover and sprockets in place, which in my case I didn't see a leak either. But once I got the rear timing belt cover off the cam seal was leaking. http://groups.msn.com/LewisPictures/97path...hoto&PhotoID=17

Its a filter but it is made of a metal screen instead of fibers so it will not clog unless of course your tranny just blew up. I've actually been at a local Nissan parts department where they refused to sell a guy a new tranny filter for that same reason, no reason to change it. Funny thing is their service literature actually touts changing the filter. I have to admit that curiousity got the better of me and I dropped my trans pan after 100k miles and heavy boat towing over 7+ years. Well the magnet had very little fuzz and the filter/screen was as good as day 1.

Pathfinders have a fine metal screen that never needs to be changed or cleaned.