lewisnc100

Free owner's manual here: Nissan Tech Info

Link

Quite a few have them, I've got just the bags but others have the full kit with compressor.

Here's a Nissan diagram of the older setup with the external cooler, looks like they had it until the 98 years, then removed it in 99+ years. http://groups.msn.com/LewisPictures/shoebo...Photo&PhotoID=3

Since you didn't remove the rear timing belt cover I'm assuming you didn't replace the coolant bypass hose directly behind that cover. I'd be more worried about that than the cam seals, when it starts to leak it isn't small. Make sure you do both when you get around to working on yours.

You also might need to go to a shop with a balancer that can simulate road force, like the Hunter GSP9700. http://www.gsp9700.com/pub/search/findgsp9700.cfm

Any auto parts store has bearings/races that fit from multiple manufacturers that will work just fine.

0.35 mm (0.0138 in.) thick and 12.7 mm (0.500 in.) wide. I want to say my Haynes manual listed the gauge at .5 in. thick and .5 in. wide, minor typo but it would leave the belt very loose if you didn't check belt deflection after that.

Had the crank seal in hand, part# 13510-10Y10. I originally planned on replacing both cam and crank seals, but after struggling with the cam seals that are high and very accessible, I decided against touching the crank seal since it was completely dry + tougher to get at. It's definitely a risk that could come back to bite me before my next timing belt change.

There were 2 different canister and vent control valves used in the 97 Pathfinders based on manufacture date. The older design is much more expensive, but if you are replacing both the canister and vent control valve together you can go with the new design regardless of what was originally on there. The part numbers for the redesigned cheaper parts are vent control valve 14935-54U04 and canister 14950-1S718. I got both for under $100 at www.everythingnissan.com, but there's a thread on this site that has a ton of sites for ordering Nissan parts so you could shop around.

How about the thermostat and timing belt tensioner. Don't forget that small little bypass coolant hose. And if you're bearings are shot you'll want to replace the races when you swap the bearings, invest in a brass punch to slowly tap the old races out of the hub.

Disconnecting the battery doesn't mean the error has gone away for those 3-4 weeks, its just taken that long for the EVAP monitor to hit the right drive cycles to test the system and get the error. If your canister is leaking charcoal then you need to replace the canister and vent control valve at a minimum, and blow out all the EVAP lines. You'll probably also need to clean charcoal out of other EVAP parts.

Cheapest OEM parts I've found online: http://everythingnissan.com/

And don't forget that little bypass coolant hose that sits behind the upper timing belt cover, you'll see it was leaking bad in my pictures and it would be a pain to change after you were done. This parts list might help, from my 97 change: 21501-0W501 Radiator Hose Upper 21503-0W001 Radiator Hose Lower 14055-0W000 Coolant Bypass Hose 14055-0W??? Small Hose to Thermostat 21200-V7206 Thermostat 13028-0B785 Timing Belt 13070-42L00 Timing Belt Tensioner 21010-0W028 Water Pump 13042-0B001 Camshaft Seals 02117-88023 Drive Belts 11720-0W002 11920-0W002

I would say based on the age of the belt you might want to get it done soon. If you try it make sure you get the Nissan FSM steps and order all the parts up front. I waited on some coolant hoses and had to drive all over town to find them. I'd give yourself 2 full days if you haven't done it before. Here's a few pics of the change on my 97: http://groups.msn.com/LewisPictures/97path...beltchange.msnw

Last time I checked Jiffy Lube promotes transmission "fluid exchanges", its not a power flush. There is no pump in the exchange machine, it relies on the transmission pump to push the old fluid out the cooler line to the machine and a diaphragm in the machine pushes the new fluid out of the machine and back into the cooler line. There is no pressure applied via the exchange machine. Since the flow is via the transmission pump and there is no reverse flush (which is a good thing), there is no cleaning of the trans filter, not that it matters with a self cleaning Nissan screen. Lastly it takes a lot more than 8 qts to exchange %100 of the fluid in the Pathfinder.

I used the Nissan FSM steps, you can get them from an alldata.com subscription or from nissantechinfo.com for a daily subscription fee. Someone had a link to free FSMs a while back on here but I think that's dead. I did look through the Haynes manual and it seemed to have about every step but did notice the final timing belt tension step had the wrong size feeler gauge listed. Other than that I think it had a lot of detail, I'm just not sure how it compares with the FSM steps. I think it also has pictures of the seal replacement but there really isn't any steps to post on that, remove seal, oil and tap in new one. Doubt you'll find anymore than that in any manual.

Before I decided to do mine myself I priced all the items above at 2 Nissan dealerships, both quotes came back at $1000 - $1100.

Before you start make sure you get all 4 coolant hoses, I made the assumption that I could get them at any dealer during my change and most only carried 1 or 2 of the 4. This link had some tidbits that I used, the part about the AC line helps since it runs directly in front of the timing belt cover. Timing Belt Link

Pretty close but D4 = overdrive, torque converter lock-up occurs in D4. The shift schedule is D1 - D2 - D3 - D4 - D4 lock-up. Overdrive off means you stay in D3.

5.5 qts sounds right then.

Did you jack up your Pathfinder? Everytime I drain the pan I get 4-4.25 qts on level surface and have only gotten 5.5 qts out when dropping the pan. Make sure you check the level again using the instructions in your owner's manual.

Of course it filters out particles, but it is a self cleaning screen (Nissan calls it an oil strainer), nothing is going to stick to it when the pump stops. It is designed to keep particles from making it to the pump, but that doesn't mean that you need to change it. In fact you will not find changing your trans filter in your service schedule and you will not find changing it in the factory service manual even when you have the pan off already. The only mention of the oil strainer is to check it for damage when your tranny explodes, thats about the only reason you would need to replace it. The good dealer service depts. will steer you away from buying one and I've seen that personally. But if it makes you feel better go ahead and change it. But your transmission running better afterward is merely a factor of cleaning the pan and magnet and changing 50%+ of the ATF, not because the new strainer is working any different.

I wouldn't change the tranny filter, it's a fine metal screen that will not clog. You could drop the pan and clean the magnet and check the filter while you're in there, but I can tell you it won't have anything on the screen. If you drop the pan you need to get a new pan gasket and watch those bolts, very easy to break. You do have a drain plug so you could do a couple of drain and fillls to get new fluid in there, or a flush via the trans lines.

Your oil filter is mounted inverted so regardless of how long you drain the oil or if it has an anti-drainback valve it will be full, it can't drain up. I've used plastic bags but you can also cut a 2-liter to fit under it directing the oil to a drainpan.