lewisnc100

I've gotten P0733 along with the other gear ratio errors and it was caused by the TPS being out of adjustment. I'd wait until it becomes an actual error and not just pending before you do anything. But this link has instructions to adjust your TPS: TPS Adjustment - Gear Ratio Errors

A new waterpump should come with a gasket like the original. The thermostat uses a RTV gasket as mentioned.

Parts list and pics from my 97 change last year: 21501-0W501 Radiator Hose Upper 21503-0W001 Radiator Hose Lower 14055-0W000 Coolant Bypass Hose 14055-0W??? Small Hose to Thermostat 21200-V7206 Thermostat 13028-0B785 Timing Belt 13070-42L00 Timing Belt Tensioner 21010-0W028 Water Pump 13042-0B001 Camshaft Seals 02117-88023 Drive Belts 11720-0W002 11920-0W002 http://groups.msn.com/LewisPictures/97path....msnw?Page=Last

99 = 168hp 99.5 & 2000 = 170hp

In this case the diagnostic procedures for P0171/P0174 are not checking to see if the O2 sensors are bad, just if the connections are OK. You're right, if the O2 sensors were bad you should get O2 sensor errors. For these error codes it has you check O2 sensor harnesses for continuity on specific terminals.

That's what the factory service manual is for. For those two error codes there are many possible causes including: Intake air leaks Front heated oxygen sensors Injectors Exhaust gas leaks Incorrect fuel pressure Lack of fuel MAF The codes tell you its running lean, but you'll still need to investigate what is causing it.

Good price except for the shipping, the cheapest shipping is $26 for me. Take a look at www.alloemautoparts.com, they have brake parts on sale this month with free shipping on orders $75 or more. Brembos are $53.99 each there with free shipping.

No, its an actual warranty extension. TSB NTB98-062a issued November 1, 1998. Covers the exhaust manifold for 100 months/100,000 miles. But only covers VIN ranges JN8AR05***W236759. In my case the dealership's system didn't list that TSB as applying to my Pathfinder, but working through Nissan corporate they said it was covered. Dealer still refused and I had to get Nissan corporate to fax them documentation saying that I was covered under warranty before they would do the work. Portion of letter to dealers: It has come to our attention that some owners of 1996 - 1998 Pathfinders may be experiencing a minor noise involving the exhaust manifold, and/or corrosion/ rattles involving the main muffler and post muffler assembly. These conditions have no effect on performance or driveability, and you may continue to drive the vehicle if either should occur. Nevertheless, Nissan is committed to maintaining your full confidence in our products. To demonstrate this, we are extending the Nissan New Vehicle Limited Warranty coverage for repair of the exhaust manifold and/or the main muffler and the post muffler assembly. The extended warranty coverage for the exhaust manifold is now 100 months/100,000 miles, whichever comes first; and for the main muffler and the post muffler assembly 60 months/ 60,000 miles, whichever comes first. Each extension date is from the original in-service date.

In the 96+ Pathfinders they fixed the broken stud problem, it's the manifolds themselves that crack. You can do what I did, take it in to a Nissan dealer and tell them you think you might have a manifold leak, but do not tell them anything about the TSB or extended warranty coverage. In my case the service manager came up and said yes you have a leak from a cracked manifold and gave me a quote of $450 to fix it. That's the point when you mention the TSB and extended warranty which surprisingly he admitted there was a warranty but it didn't apply to my vehicle, yeah right. Ended up having to call Nissan corporate and have them work through the dealership to get the warranty honored. As long as you are just asking them to check it out and give you a quote they'll do that for free. And at least with my local dealership, they are much more willing to find the leak when you don't mention that its under warranty.

Here's a picture from my timing belt change. This is with the radiator, fan, belts and pulleys removed. The thermostat is inside of the thermostat housing where the coolant hose connects. http://groups.msn.com/LewisPictures/97path...hoto&PhotoID=14

I've had them on my 97 for 2 years and when winter comes around I just leave them locked for weeks at a time, even a remote chance of snow or ice they're locked before I leave home.

Not sure if you have the same setup, but on the side of the throttle body there is a thermo-element that keeps the idle speed up until the coolant warms up, then should fully retract allowing the fast idle cam to rest on the stop. Make sure that is fully retracting when warm.

The grease point is on the front propeller shaft (driveshaft) just in front of the transfer case, just use a standard grease gun. Some Nissan's came with a cap instead of a standard zerk though, you'll have to take a look and see what you have.

Anything the dealership tells you on what is covered and not covered make sure you verify with Nissan corporate. My local dealership completely denied the warranty covered my 97. I had to work entirely through Nissan corporate to get everything covered and get documentation faxed to the dealership to cover the repairs.

Yes, it came with a divider tray. I think I took mine out as well shortly after buying my 97, made the bottom compartment too short with it in. Probably has a part# on it if I can find it, or maybe someone else will post it.

For the electrical connection check for any damage to the wires or harness. You might clean out the connection with some electrical contact cleaner while you have it off. If you turn the ignition on you should have voltage between terminal 2 and ground. You can also check continuity between terminal 1 and the ECM terminal 108 but I wouldn't start there. I've had the P0446 and P0440 in the past, both were fixed with a new canister and vent control valve in my case. For the charcoal leakage hopefully XPLORX4 will jump in since he's done that fix himself, check for some of his past posts on the steps.

I think what you're thinking of is the EVAP vent control valve on the canister which he mentioned was changed. Our engines do have a purge volume control valve (some also have a purge control solenoid valve) but they are both not related to that error code.

Could be one of the following: - Vent control valve harness or connectors - EVAP control system pressure sensor - Blocked rubber tube to vent control valve My money would be on the electrical connection. Any chance your old canister was leaking and you have charcoal in the rubber tube attached to the vent control valve?

96-98 Pathfinder TPS Adjustment Procedure 1. Warm up engine until the fast idle cam retracts and the throttle lever rests on the throttle stop screw (never adjust the stop screw). Turn engine off. 2. Remove the electrical connection to the closed throttle position switch (top one on TPS) 3. You'll see 3 terminals, you will be testing for continuity across the top two (5 & 6) 4. Insert the .012 feeler gauge between the stop screw and the throttle drum stop, should have continuity 0 ohms 5. Insert the .016 feeler gauge and you should not have continuity 6. If readings are incorrect loosen the bolts and adjust the sensor (rotate) until the readings are correct 7. Once the readings are correct, turn the ignition on (wait 5 seconds) and off (wait 10 seconds) and repeat 16 times to relearn the closed position

Any chance you have larger than stock tires that you're not accounting for in your MPG? My 97 gets around 20mpg on highway trips, and around 17-18mpg regular driving. Even with the AC on my MPG doesn't take much of a hit.

Even with the new sensor you'll need to go through the adjustment procedure to get it installed correctly, you'll need a multimeter and a .012 and .016 feeler gauges. Post back if you don't have those steps.

What was the code? The TPS on the 97s get out of adjustment easily triggering TPS codes. Very easy to adjust back into position.

My replacement went very smoothly, but I also used an impact wrench on the crank bolt so I didn't have to worry about it turning.

Mine came off fairly easily with a harmonic balancer puller, just had to find the right size bolts to fit into the face of the pulley. Always heard jaw pullers will chip or bend the pulley. Here's the one I have: Sears Puller Then just had to buy 2 long M6 bolts.

You also have a diagnostic mode selector screw on top of the computer which is above your gas pedal tucked behind the dash. Turning the screw will flash the codes on the dash.