lewisnc100

Have you guys with the 01's looked through the following TSB: 01-055A SEP 01 A/T - 1st to 2nd or 2nd to 3rd Gear Shift Flare Seemed like a bunch of guys with 01's on the 4x4parts.com site had this work done under warranty but I can't remember the details.

It's up to you on the bearings, but the service interval is 30k. If you let them go too long you could end up needing to replace the bearings and races. Mine started to grind and the races had marks at just under 90k. Had to replace everything, still under $100 in parts total but a little more work to remove the races. Only special took is the appropriate locknut socket to get the bearings seated correctly, just takes a while the first time to get everything apart.

Why would you reset the computer, there was nothing in the original post about fault codes so there is nothing to reset. If you are trying to clear the sensor memory for some reason you'll have to disconnect the battery but I don't see the benefit in this case. If you are trying to clear codes that weren't in the post you can use the OBDII reader as mentioned or you can use the diagnostic mode selector screw on your PCM, very easy to display and clear error codes with this. But again it doesn't sound like you have anything to clear so I wouldn't worry about it. I agree with the previous post on the hard shift, my 97 has had the same shift you describe since I bought it new in 10/96. But still not a bad idea to get new fluid in there, drain the pan and refill, drive to let it mix and repeat. You'll get 4-4.25 qts per drain out of the 9 total, 4 drain and fills and you have 90% new ATF.

Don't worry about a timing belt, the 2001 and newer Pathfinders with the 3.5L engine have a timing chain.

Good advice, but without using the flange plate adapter on the 97 SE wheels as described in TSB 98-102, getting a good balance on those wheels will be pure luck. Definitely ask if they have a flange plate adapter and mention that it is required for your wheels, maybe they'll pick up the tab for a Nissan dealer balance since they should have the right adapter. If they don't know what you are talking about show them this pic: http://groups.msn.com/LewisPictures/shoebo...hoto&PhotoID=10 This allows the wheel to be centered on the balance machine via the lugs vs. the hub hole.

Did the balance use a flange plate adapter to mount the wheels to the balancer, without it your wheels really aren't balanced. If you had the balance done at the dealer they should have used the adapter.

Yes your tranny does have a filter but it is a metal screen, no reason to change it or clean it. Easiest way to get new ATF in there is to drain the pan and add 4qts, then repeat after driving for 50 miles or so to let the fluid mix. Drain it 4 times and you're up over 90% new fluid.

If you get them balanced make sure they have a flange plate adapter to mount the wheels to the balancer using the lugs and not the hub opening.

I've seen several bottles of gear lube that say LSD compatible on the front and the details on the back say LSD compatible for top off only, what brand did you use? Ebay seems to be the best place for center caps, I got 4 for the price of 1 at the dealer.

20mpg is good since it came rated at 19mpg highway for the 4X4. The only lube point on yours is on the front driveshaft just in front of the transfer case.

Glad you got your bushing problem fixed, but I hate to tell you that there is no way that changing the fuel filter fixed a P0440 EVAP Small Leak error. Most likely you got a better seal on the gas cap or the code will be back. The EVAP system doesn't check for leaks very often, I've had mine go for up to a week before the right drive cycle conditions are met and the EVAP system is checked for a leak. If you don't get it back in a couple of weeks then it was probably just a loose gas cap that set it off originally.

You might consider a subscription to www.alldata.com, it will give you the diagnostic charts for each trouble code, access to all TSBs, all Nissan service steps etc. Well worth the $24.95 ($14.95 after first year). This was a new part as of 2001 so you might have trouble finding anyone with experience fixing this.

P1110 is Intake Valve Timing Control (Left Bank), very common. I'd start there before touching the O2 sensors.

Interesting thread on Pathfinder vibrations: http://www.nissanforums.com/showthread.php...light=vibration Also others have had success getting a balance done on a Hunter GSP9700 balancer. You can go to www.gsp9700.com for locations that have one. Here's what it is suppossed to do: The GSP9700 Vibration Control System utilizes Hunter's exclusive Road Force Measurement® System that applies up to 1400 pounds (635 kg) against the tire assembly to detect non-balance, radial force-related vibration.

The valve you are talking about is the Load Sensing Valve and it does regulate the pressure sent to the brakes. Pretty difficult to test the brake pressures but you can test the spring length to make sure it is adjusted correctly. Without weight (person in front seat and rear, person in rear gets out slowly, gradually depress brake pedal) the spring length on the LSV should be 194mm (7.64 inches). With weight (place weight over the rear axle) the spring length should be 235mm (9.25 inches). There was a quality control campaign that included your 97 and checked the LSV adjustment, rear diff, tires, struts, power steering switch etc. The number on this was 97-043 - Campaign - Quality Control Policy. You might call Nissan and check if that was ever done on your Pathfinder and if not check if it can be done. Also you might read some of the past posts on the symptoms when the rear end bushings go bad, pretty common on your 97.

700 +- 50 rpm in "N" position for A/T when engine is warmed up.

Have you checked around the throttle body, common to have a small leak there. Also the coolant line going to the intake located just to the left of the PCV line loosened and caused a small leak on my 97. Here's a couple links: http://npora.ipbhost.com/index.php?showtop...hl=coolant+leak http://65.166.200.170/ubbthreads/showflat....true#Post234176

97SE, that sounds real familiar. You can win that argument very easily, say you put 15k on a year at 15MPG and prices of gas up around $2.00, that's $2,000 a year in gas. With manual hubs say you get 16MPG, you just saved $125 the first year. If you keep your Pathfinder for a while they will pay for themselves even if you only see a modest increase in MPG. herm is right, I haven't seen the 2mpg claims that others have seen since installing Warns, but I am a little over 1mpg better after 3,000 miles. Those miles have been all city so I'm not sure what the highway difference is yet.

Probably not a good idea on your QX4 since you have All-Mode 4WD. If you install manual hubs you will need to make sure they are locked whenever you are in the standard AUTO mode. You could use them unlocked when in 2WD mode, but if someone switched that to AUTO when the hubs were unlocked you could have problems.

For the 97 part number you can look at the top of the rear axle for the ID Mark stamped in large white letters (ID Mark is first 2 digits of code): Part Number ID Mark Number of Teeth Gear Ratio 38300-K4409 CR 48:11 4.363 38300-K4419 CT 48:11 4.363 LSD 38300-K4509 CV 51:11 4.636 38300-K4519 CX 51:11 4.636 LSD

Here's a link to a post on the steps, this was for my 97 but the 96 should be the same. http://65.166.200.170/ubbthreads/showflat....true#Post241620

Have you tried adjusting the TPS, it's a quick easy adjustment with a feeler gauge.

You can also get a 1 day subscription to http://www.Nissan-techinfo.com/Nissan/ and download all the details for $19.95.

Outside of buying a code reader to catch the codes, you might want to get used to using the diagnostic mode selector screw on your PCM. You can turn the screw to flash the codes on the dash. It's a little tough to reach it the first time since its located on top of the PCM up behind the dash, but once you get the hang of it you should be able to read the codes anytime with no special tools.

If this is the rear cargo cover in a Pathfinder you just hit it from underneath and it will pop straight up.