commodorehat

I downloaded this pdf guide for doing a manual swap a while back because I thought it might be something I try if my transmission goes out. I can't remember where I got it or who made it, but its pretty detailed. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1cOPtf2NZYrmooUEgqyvrg3WlZd0Er9w5/view?usp=sharing

Yeah you are only talking about a .6" difference between the 2 options, and the backspacing with both should put you within the wheel well. So it'll really depend on whether you want a slightly wider stance with -6. The +10s will be closer to stock, which is I think +20.

KYB is your best option for struts. For rear shocks you have some choices depending on what you want to do offroad. You don't NEED extra length with the ~2" lift you'll get with the springs, but if go with a 26" extended shock (stock is 24") then you can still just swap the shock. Anything more you'll have to extend some things (brake lines, etc). The bilsteins above are top of the line and give you that 26". I run KYB Gas-a-justs with my 2" lift, which are a nice ride and relatively inexpensive, but they give the OEM 24" expanded length. I don't do a ton of rock crawling which is where I'd imagine you'd want the extra flex. I think you can still find the ARB N61s if you want to match the springs, which I believe are also 24". See:

Yes. you only have to worry about backspacing clearing your strut plate if your tires are going to be over 31". 265/70r16 is ~30.6". I think you'll tuck with both of those options. tiresize.com has an offset calculator you can mess with to test your options: https://tiresize.com/wheel-offset-calculator/

You generally can do 31's on stock wheel/suspension, though depending on the year and trim you may have to do a small amount trimming to avoid rubbing at full lock. a 2" spacer lift should be fine, though it will put some extra CV joint stress. You'll probably be ok if you keep it mostly on the road, though you can beef them up by using Trackmotive CVs

There's a guy on the Facebook NPORA and R50 Life groups that sells them. get on there and search for Taylor Padiwan

Thanks, Yeah drivers side was salvageable with hose clamps. The passenger side had a a big chunk completely rusted off so I removed them. So far so good. I might replace with a set from the junk yard one of these days

Pulled the heat shieldw and the noise stopped. Now to figure out how to secure them without the rattle.

Thanks for the tip. I'll add it to the list. The linkage to high rpm is interesting to me. A couple of other things that are suspicious are my heat shields are pretty rusted and loose, and my knock sensor has thrown me codes in the past.

I have a 98 pathfinder SE, and recently my car has been making a loud rapid clicking sound (almost like crickets) coming from the engine when I accelerate above 2000 to 2500 RPMs. The car runs fine still, same power and smooth ride. No engine lights. Recently I have been bumping around offroad, so maybe something got loose? Another interesting detail is when I pull the accelerator cable on the engine block I don't hear it. Only when I accelerate with the gas pedal. All my belts are new. I'm planning on doing some work to try to find the issue and was wondering what things I should look at.

Check out this post: I did this on mine and has worked out well.

I appreciate this thread. Just used conduit mounts and bed liner paint to put on a basket I got off of Facebook marketplace. Happy so far with it. It’s on there really good with minimal extra wind noise. Link to a pic (on the Facebook npora group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/NPORA/permalink/10160846826250129/?app=fbl

Bummer. I’ve also seen folk be able to get it off with a more general gear puller like one of these ( not sure the size) https://a.co/d/8e4idf6 harmonic is easier assuming the bolts work but this may get it in a bind

The rear springs will be medium duty (2922). They don't do heavy duty for the rear. Since its lighter in the back the medium springs alone will give you close to a 2" lift. The front springs will be slightly less of a lift (even with heavy duty), which is why some use the "leveling kit" spacers. I've seen people do OME up front with rear land rover springs if they do a lot of heavy towing or weigh the rear down quite a bit. I have the OME setup (without spacers) front and back (HD front 2928 and MD rear 2922) and only have a slight rake when the vehicle is completely unloaded. if I load up the back or throw my bikes on a hitch bike rack, then the truck looks level.

I could not get the amazon aftermarket fobs to work for the life of me (I have a 98 SE), and ended up getting a used OEM fob from ebay. it worked the very first time I programmed it. Amazon may be worth a try if its a bunch cheaper since they have 30 day returns. Here's a link to the ebay company that I got the good fob from: https://www.ebay.com/str/pnwkeys They may or may not have one for your model since they deal in used OEM fobs, but I can vouch that the one they sent me works.