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Everything posted by jjmwilkinson

  1. Make sure your brake fluid isn't low, the "brake" light will come on if the fluid is low. But yeah if I remember correctly the "brake" light switch for the parking brake is at the base of the level in the center console. Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
  2. NICE! Glad it worked! Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
  3. Just looked at the wiring diagram. Check out the 7.5 amp fuse in the under dash fuse box. Labeled #24 but it controls the antenna and the door chime. Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
  4. If you aren't getting 12 volts on the constant power wore to the stereo I would troubleshoot that. The accessory wire is just a trigger wire to turn the stereo on, but it uses the constant to actually power it. Kind of like a relay. Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
  5. Check the 10 amp tail light fuse in the engine bay fuse box. Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
  6. Dude I did my alternator a while back because it was whining. Definitely way worse than the starter in my opinion, that nut you are talking about is such a stupid design. The starter really didn't give me any issue.
  7. Hey all, is there anyone here who still makes the drop down bracket for the panhard rod? After my lift my rear axle is noticeably pulled to the left and is causing some dog tracking. I don't have any metal working experience so I'd much rather pay to have someone make it for me. Thanks!
  8. No problem! I'm glad you were able to get it figured out. I'd suggest seeing if you can pull the carpet up where it's wet drying the floor underneath and then just throwing a fan in there if you can. You don't want it to mold. Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
  9. Yup that's it! Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
  10. Actually I was a little wrong, it's on the firewall, under where the ac lines go through it. It comes out and points to the passenger side of the car, it's only a couple inches long. If you get a socket extension or a stick or something down there you should be able to get dirt or whatever is stuck in it to free up. If it's anything like my friends old Saturn that had the same issue, be prepared for a lot of water to come out. The pic is kind of hard to see but just under and to the right of the ac lines there a rubber dome looking thing, that's the hose. Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
  11. The drain hose is on the outside of the car under the car. Basically the bottom of that black box goes through the floor and a hose is attached to that. If I can get under my 02 today I'll see if I can post a pic of it. Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
  12. Ahhh I see, didn't realize the LE wheels were only offered on the later R50s.
  13. Aren't those SE wheels? At least that's what came on my SE, the LE wheels are the ones with all 6 spokes the same size and has a small center cap that doesn't cover the lugnuts like the SE wheels. Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
  14. According to the service manual: "The MIL will not light for knock sensor malfunction." (From EC-320). For the most part it helps to detect pinging and helps with misfire detection. So it's not the end of the world if you don't have a functioning knock sensor, but in certain circumstances it's good to have. Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
  15. I needed up inspecting and reusing it, lubing it with atf before putting the torque converter back on. But that was more because I couldn't source one quickly once I realized I forgot to order a new one. Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
  16. Alrighty, I got the transmission and rear main seal replaced over this last weekend. Work was slow on Thursday so I was able to clock off and bring the Pathfinder in and get the transmission out before I left. No problems there. Had a nice set up for getting the torque converter bolts out (long ass extension with a wobbly socket fed through oil cooler area to the hole where the starter sits), and the bell housing bolts (lowered transmission a little bit to angle engine down and again used a long extension and wobbly socket to get the upper bell housing bolts. Little tip, if you have access to compressed air, after you get the cooler lines undone, blow air through them to get the majority of the ATF out of there, and you won't have them dripping as much. On Friday I pulled the drive plate off to check the rear main seal, of course it was seeping a little bit (from the oil pan half moon seal as @Mr_Reverse said) and I knew if I didn't do it and it got worse, I'd be kicking myself for it. So I did try to attempt to do it without pulling the oil pan, and you can get the old one out fine but since the new seal hasn't been compressed for the last 17 years it was impossible to put enough pressure on it and at the same time push towards the engine to seat the rear main. Oh well, I sourced the o-rings for the oil pan and I already had the half moon seals for the front and rear so I spent 8ish hours working on the oil pan. My biggest issue was supporting the engine. With the "Acura Special" engine supports I couldn't get a good place to have the 4 feet placed, but I figured out that if I turned it around so the adjustable feet are towards the back of the engine bay and the fixed feet are on the core support it fit pretty well. (https://www.crzforum.com/threads/2011-cr-z-transmission-removal-and-install.92243/ this is the engine hanger we have). And then used a chain around the throttle body and another I used a longer bolt in place of one of the intake bolts and ran it through another chain. Getting the o-rings on the little channel they sit in on the block is a pain in the ass to do, ended up using a touch of hondabond to keep them in place. After cleaning and reinstalling the oil pan everything went together pretty easy and way quicker than it came apart. I left Friday the same way I started, ready to reinstall the transmission. Saturday, got the new transmission secured to the transmission jack, got the transfer case installed onto it and clocked the torque converter close to where the drive plate bolt holes were (I've over looked this doing transmissions a couple times and some cars fit tight enough together that once the transmission is installed you can't spin them separately very easily, so it's a good idea to get them close). Got the transmission mated to the engine, got the bolts hand tight, installed the torque converter bolts, tightened to spec, then tightened the bellhousing bolts to spec, reinstalled the transmission brace, removed the tranny jack and put everything back in that I had to take out. I didn't have enough hose to install the tranny cooler that I bought that I was going to run as a bypass. So I haven't installed the cooler yet, I cleaned out the factory one at the bottom of the radiator, didn't seem backed up at all, and I ordered up a few more feet of hose as well as a Magnefine 3/8" in-line filter for the transmission (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0787KWZPS/) that I have seen some people recommend. So I'm going to install that before the factory cooler and run my new cooler as an add-on cooler instead of a bypass. As of right now, I've put about 130 miles on this transmission and have no complaints about it so far. The biggest change (other than actually being able to drive it lol) has been the 1-2 shift when it is cold. The old transmission would SLAM into 2nd when it was cold. It would almost seem stuck in first gear and then just slam into 2nd, but the other shifts were fine. Haven't decided what I'm going to do with the old transmission, give it to our scrap guys, take on disassembling it and rebuilding it (which might end with giving it to the scrap guys in smaller parts), or selling as-is to someone who needs a non-working transmission for whatever reason. Couple things worth mentioning: 1. Our local nissan dealer didn't have the o-rings for the oil pan in stock and were a few days out if I was to order them, but our local Infinity had 15 in stock for a few bucks a piece (you need 2) so don't forget to check with Infinity, same part # 2. The crush washers for the banjo bolts on the transmission cooler lines, and power steering lines @ the rack are equivalent to Dorman 097-827CD, same width, inside diameter and outside diameter. You need 8 of these. 3. I ended up using an aftermarket torque converter seal (another "replace it while you have it apart even if it's ok" type of thing) National 224663.
  17. Back when I had an iPod touch (I have a galaxy s10 now) I used torque and bought a generic obd2 blue tooth adapter and it worked fine for me. That was at least 5 years ago and I still use the app and same adapter with my s10. Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
  18. That's a super good idea. I work on Acuras professionally and when we do engines they drop out with the subframe and we use kinda the same trick. We use old subframe bolts, cut the heads off and cut a notch in them so when we are lowering the car onto the subframe we can get it positioned correctly and don't have to mess with trying to lines the holes up. Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
  19. Sweet! Thanks for the actual pics, I've looked at the service manual but having actual pictures is super nice. Do you actually have to take out everything the manual says or are you able to sneak it out without fully removing stuff like the alternator and power steering pump? Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
  20. Hello! I've been lurking for a while since I bought my 2002 R50 back in November from my buddy's dad who sold it to me cheap because of a transmission issue. The body of the truck is pretty damn mint, for a 287k mile, always parked outside vehicle, minus the deteriorated chip protect on the hood. I've done a lot to my Pathfinder already while waiting for the transmission to blow up since I didn't want to put a new transmission in it without confirming that was the issue. So far: Warn hubs, AC 2" inch lift, upper trailing arm bushings, all of the fluids, new wheels/tires, idle air control valve, alternator (due to bearings, not charging issue), idler pulley, oil cooler o-rings. As well as pulled out all of the seats and center console and with help from my fiance we cleaned the hell out of the carpet and seats and got grime that has probably been in the car since my buddy and I were kids. I don't have huge plans for this truck, other than some light off roading, camping, and mountain car for the winter so I can stop putting as many miles on my Impreza, while also expanding how much room I have for activites!
  21. TL;DR at bottom before pic. Hey all, Been lurking here for a couple months reading up on guides and how-to's and looking at mods other people have done. Now it's my turn to post. My buddy's dad bought this 02 back in 2004 and drove the hell out of it. Mid-2018 he started having transmission problems. With 287k on it, he opted to just park it and he bought a new 4Runner. Well finally talked with him about it and I told him I'd buy it off of him. And that was that. Wouldn't stay running due to the idle air control valve, so replaced that and then test drove it hard and had no issues with the transmission. I didn't want to throw a transmission at it without confirming that's what it was. So I started doing other things to it. I bought some old 4Runner wheels with tires off craigslist for a few hundred dollars, great deal especially since the guy said the PO had just installed them before selling the 4Runner, and then the current owner put some aftermarket wheels and mud tires on, so I came out with tires with only 700 miles on them and date code is end of 2018. I installed some Warn hubs, a new alternator (bearing had started making a ton of noise and I screwed up reassembling the old alternator with the new bearings), new idler pulley, replaced the oil cooler o-ring and the rack boot on that side that the oil had deteriorated. Got some AC lift springs with Bilstein 33-185552 rear shocks and KYB 335032/335033 front struts and new strut bushings, also replaced the rear upper trailing arm bushings, they were absolutely wrecked haha. Also replaced all fluids in the truck except brake fluid (will probably do that next oil change). So after all of that and the looming question of "when the hell is this transmission going to fail" and driving 200 miles with no issues it finally bit the dust on me at 70 MPH cruising on the freeway heading home from my parents place after watching the Seahawks lose the divisional game. Felt like it dropped 4th gear and went into 3rd, was at 3500-4000 RPM. I needed gas anyway so I filled her up, started driving again and couldn't do much but crawl. Then it clunked and shifted fine a couple times. Luckily I was a couple miles from my work (I work at a car dealership as a technician). Unfortunately I didn't make it, after getting stopped at a light, it wouldn't shift out of first anymore and the metal on metal grinding noise coming from underneath me was enough to convince me to call for a tow. AAA got there and towed it to my work. I ordered up a transmission from a wrecking yard with 87k on it and bought the 1 year warranty on it. Now I'm just waiting for it to get here. TL;DR->> So here are my questions, I am already planning on replacing the internal filter on the 'new' transmission (I know its just a metal screen and doesn't do much but I'm planning on looking in the pan anyway), I am also planning on installing an aftermarket tranny cooler to bypass the factory one in the radiator (Hayden 678 if anyone is wondering). I was thinking if I should do the rear main seal as well, even though it looks like you are supposed to remove the oil pan, are you able to just add liquid gasket to the bottom of the seal retainer and call it good, or is it an actual fitment issue that is blocking you from replacing the RMS without dropping the pan? Also when I did my ATF change I used Valvoline MaxLife synthetic ATF. Do you guys recommend that or should I do a different fluid with the new transmission? Anything else you guys recommend I rock out when doing the transmission? Thanks! Jack

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