95shakinPF

poor mans lift! Also, A/C's(automotive customizers 4x4) body lift is a relatively low price!

If it has the alarm, it should have the keyless entry. Theres a thread with lots of info on programming the remote and operation of the alarm(although I programmed my remote and it refuses to work for me). The info in the thread is VERY HELPFUL and will answer most of your questions!! Good Luck!

Please let us know what they find so it will help others with these same symptoms!! Good Luck!!

Just pull the belt back off and start over!! Line it all up put the belt back on and go with that!! If you loosen it up to try to move it a couple teeth, you may end up bending valves. Be safe and correct!! Good Luck!!

Take a look in the how-to's and read up on cleaning the throttle body and MAF sensor. I'll bet a paycheck thats your troubles!! Good luck!

HAPPY NEW YEAR, NPORA!!!!!!!!

Ive worked at several auto parts stores and have found that not often, BUT OCCASIONALLY you find a rebuilt starter thats crap!! Your really gonna have to pull your starter and have it checked to be certain. I really think youve got problems with your connections tho, as the others have stated.

Man I love this site!! I've been having this problem lately and thinking OH BOY im starting to have a gas leak somewhere! And its gonna be a PITA to fix!!

Im with ya Hud, thats exactly how I gotta open mine!!

While working at the Ford Stealership we had a vehicle come in with a broken cable at the latch end. As K9 said, they had to mess up the grill in order to force the latch to release the hood striker. They put the vehicle on a lift and tried to unbolt the latch from different angles, but it was just impossible to get to. Hopefully you still have a cable to grab hold to! Good Luck.

Ya see! Thats what I love!! Ive worked at a Ford dealership for several years in the parts dept. and nothing, NOTHING, interchanges on those vehicles!!! I'm talking several different axles for the same year model. Not to mention left and right would be different also! GOD I LOVE MY PATHY!

Its gotta be a connection loose somewhere to be intermittent like that. Or like uncc said, some corrosion problem that finally let it make contact again.

Hey Mike, I sent you a PM did you ever get to it?

So, your talking about the shock mount bushings are junk? Right? What, if you really couldnt afford all 4 Rancho's, would you go with as a good all around but mostly hwy shock?

YEAH! AND BABY TREES TOO!

I keep finding various older model yota 4x4's around here for sale and I really would like to get one. My pathy is only 2WD, so it would actually be for wheeling only! Oh well, fixing my pathy and buying a house is first priority!!

You forgot pwr sterring fluid,transfer case and rear end(differential) fluid and washer fluid. In my opinion,you can never over check your fluids. Anyway,your most common leaks are gonna be motor oil. They mostly come from the oil pressure sending unit, valve cover gaskets, and rear main seal. Most times someone will think the rear main is leaking,when its actually trailing down the back of the engine coming from the valve covers. There are engine oil dyes available that you can add to your oil that can later be viewed with a florescent lamp to determine where the oil is leaking from. Or you can just visually inspect the motor with adequate lighting and see where the oil is coming from(after you thoroughly degrease your engine first). As long as you check/fill your oil level on a regular interval, you shouldnt have to worry about blowing the motor. No, never, ever use stop leaks!! Think about this, does the oil stop leak know the difference between a crack in a seal/gasket verses a small hole in a vital oil passage? It is always good to use one brand/type of fluid and stick with the same if at all possible. But im not saying you should pass on adding oil to your motor because you cant get the same brand or weight! Im no engineer, But I think I've covered what you were asking and hope I was helpful. Also, do you have an owners manual? That will actually give the best time intervals for checking/replacing all fluid levels. Good Luck!

Who did you order em from? I just ordered a set from Josh's finishlinegraphics and hope everythings OK. I think everyone who ordered from him has had no problems.

ES1000's-$26.95ea plus shipping, boots included! ES3000's-$34.95ea plus shipping & boots ES9000's-$36.95ea plus shipping & boots (thats why I was interested in these for $2 more than the 3000's) Skyjackers-$39.95ea plus shipping-boots included! I'm really stuck on whether or not I need the 9000's!! My rig is a daily driver, 60 miles round trip on the hwy 5 days a week. Only time I really go off road is to the creeks around here on weekends. However if someone says "dont drive your truck down that hill", Ill definitely go down the hill. I go where I can!!

I've just purchased my 95XE pathy in July (god I love 'er) and the previous owner apparently had the shocks replaced. They are Yellow (I have no idea who makes an aftermarket yellow shock) with no markings at all. The idiot who changed them actually left the plastic hanging on them that keeps them compressed in the box. The rear are shot! The front are still pretty stiff. However, the rubbers on top studs are crushed and starting to break apart! So I decided to replace all 4 and summit seems to have a descent price on the Nitrogen filled Pro Comp ES9000 or the Skyjacker Nitro Shocks. My rig is stock height and I dont plan to do a SL. Maybe a BL later for taller tires. I really dont wheel her, but I do go where I can!! 1st-What do you guys recomend between the two? The Skyjackers come with boots and polyurethane bushings. Pro comp boots sold separately and no mention of bushing material. Price difference is only $3. 2nd- If I dont wheel, are these shocks overkill? Since I dont go offroad much should I just go with a lighter shock like the ES1000's. Interested in your ideas/inputs and thanks to everyone for all the plentiful info over these last few months. THANKS NPORA!!

Amen to that,Greg. Then again I live so far south we dont have winter! Its December 1st and I've still got my t-shirt on with the sleeves cut off! A balmy 60 degrees!! I've been running 10w40 (mainly cause of an oil leak) but now wondering if I should drop weights?! I do have a lifter tap for @ 2-3 seconds until pressure builds, then it quits. Ya think I should go thinner?

Flooded the distributor maybe? Or coil has corroded up after drying!??!

Hey Spiker, I really dont want to give you any bad info (as I have no idea about a 90 model,mines a 95) but it does sound like yours is cable driven and not electrical. Yes, pull the instrument cluster and unhook the cable/wires going to it. If it has a cable you can drive a few clicks down the road to see if the cable is spinning at all. Then go from there! Good Luck!

Yes your correct! min. voltage is .5volts A/C- IIRC!

I have always heard that silicone will enhance the rust(make it rust more and faster)which is why you dont want to use silicone. However, they do offer a type of window sealant in a tube (silicone?). Im not sure what this actually is or if this is any better than just simply using silicone, or if the statement about silicone is even true. Maybe try like Simon said but ask a glass co. if they offer a sealant? Hope I helped,Good Luck!