95shakinPF

While working at the Ford Stealership we had a vehicle come in with a broken cable at the latch end. As K9 said, they had to mess up the grill in order to force the latch to release the hood striker. They put the vehicle on a lift and tried to unbolt the latch from different angles, but it was just impossible to get to. Hopefully you still have a cable to grab hold to! Good Luck.

Ya see! Thats what I love!! Ive worked at a Ford dealership for several years in the parts dept. and nothing, NOTHING, interchanges on those vehicles!!! I'm talking several different axles for the same year model. Not to mention left and right would be different also! GOD I LOVE MY PATHY!

Its gotta be a connection loose somewhere to be intermittent like that. Or like uncc said, some corrosion problem that finally let it make contact again.

Hey Mike, I sent you a PM did you ever get to it?

So, your talking about the shock mount bushings are junk? Right? What, if you really couldnt afford all 4 Rancho's, would you go with as a good all around but mostly hwy shock?

YEAH! AND BABY TREES TOO!

I keep finding various older model yota 4x4's around here for sale and I really would like to get one. My pathy is only 2WD, so it would actually be for wheeling only! Oh well, fixing my pathy and buying a house is first priority!!

You forgot pwr sterring fluid,transfer case and rear end(differential) fluid and washer fluid. In my opinion,you can never over check your fluids. Anyway,your most common leaks are gonna be motor oil. They mostly come from the oil pressure sending unit, valve cover gaskets, and rear main seal. Most times someone will think the rear main is leaking,when its actually trailing down the back of the engine coming from the valve covers. There are engine oil dyes available that you can add to your oil that can later be viewed with a florescent lamp to determine where the oil is leaking from. Or you can just visually inspect the motor with adequate lighting and see where the oil is coming from(after you thoroughly degrease your engine first). As long as you check/fill your oil level on a regular interval, you shouldnt have to worry about blowing the motor. No, never, ever use stop leaks!! Think about this, does the oil stop leak know the difference between a crack in a seal/gasket verses a small hole in a vital oil passage? It is always good to use one brand/type of fluid and stick with the same if at all possible. But im not saying you should pass on adding oil to your motor because you cant get the same brand or weight! Im no engineer, But I think I've covered what you were asking and hope I was helpful. Also, do you have an owners manual? That will actually give the best time intervals for checking/replacing all fluid levels. Good Luck!

Who did you order em from? I just ordered a set from Josh's finishlinegraphics and hope everythings OK. I think everyone who ordered from him has had no problems.

ES1000's-$26.95ea plus shipping, boots included! ES3000's-$34.95ea plus shipping & boots ES9000's-$36.95ea plus shipping & boots (thats why I was interested in these for $2 more than the 3000's) Skyjackers-$39.95ea plus shipping-boots included! I'm really stuck on whether or not I need the 9000's!! My rig is a daily driver, 60 miles round trip on the hwy 5 days a week. Only time I really go off road is to the creeks around here on weekends. However if someone says "dont drive your truck down that hill", Ill definitely go down the hill. I go where I can!!

I've just purchased my 95XE pathy in July (god I love 'er) and the previous owner apparently had the shocks replaced. They are Yellow (I have no idea who makes an aftermarket yellow shock) with no markings at all. The idiot who changed them actually left the plastic hanging on them that keeps them compressed in the box. The rear are shot! The front are still pretty stiff. However, the rubbers on top studs are crushed and starting to break apart! So I decided to replace all 4 and summit seems to have a descent price on the Nitrogen filled Pro Comp ES9000 or the Skyjacker Nitro Shocks. My rig is stock height and I dont plan to do a SL. Maybe a BL later for taller tires. I really dont wheel her, but I do go where I can!! 1st-What do you guys recomend between the two? The Skyjackers come with boots and polyurethane bushings. Pro comp boots sold separately and no mention of bushing material. Price difference is only $3. 2nd- If I dont wheel, are these shocks overkill? Since I dont go offroad much should I just go with a lighter shock like the ES1000's. Interested in your ideas/inputs and thanks to everyone for all the plentiful info over these last few months. THANKS NPORA!!

Amen to that,Greg. Then again I live so far south we dont have winter! Its December 1st and I've still got my t-shirt on with the sleeves cut off! A balmy 60 degrees!! I've been running 10w40 (mainly cause of an oil leak) but now wondering if I should drop weights?! I do have a lifter tap for @ 2-3 seconds until pressure builds, then it quits. Ya think I should go thinner?

Flooded the distributor maybe? Or coil has corroded up after drying!??!

Hey Spiker, I really dont want to give you any bad info (as I have no idea about a 90 model,mines a 95) but it does sound like yours is cable driven and not electrical. Yes, pull the instrument cluster and unhook the cable/wires going to it. If it has a cable you can drive a few clicks down the road to see if the cable is spinning at all. Then go from there! Good Luck!

Yes your correct! min. voltage is .5volts A/C- IIRC!

I have always heard that silicone will enhance the rust(make it rust more and faster)which is why you dont want to use silicone. However, they do offer a type of window sealant in a tube (silicone?). Im not sure what this actually is or if this is any better than just simply using silicone, or if the statement about silicone is even true. Maybe try like Simon said but ask a glass co. if they offer a sealant? Hope I helped,Good Luck!

Well............any luck? What did ya figure out?

To be absolutely sure, get a friend to help. Lift front end and get your friend to move the tire side to side while you look at each joint of the center link for slack. If its bad, you'll see it give at the joint! Doing it by yourself, you wont be able to feel the slack unless its SHOT. As for the rust, its best to use a small ball peen hammer and tap on the frame with it. If you find a soft/thin spot, it wont "ping" like everywhere else. Hope this helps, Good Luck!

Not charging! Check the connections at the battery and alternator thoroughly. If all is well there, the alternator must be going! You should maintain 13.5 to 14 vollts at the battery when running! Have the alt. checked at Auto Zone,Advance,Oreiley's etc. Or you may have an electrical component staying on draining the battery(rear hatch light?).

Try pulling the hose loose from the washer tank leading to the rear hatch and blow compressed air thru it to clear out stuck trash! Be careful not to use too much air pressure, you may blow things apart!!

Sorry guys, I've just sold my extra cluster to Unccpathfinder today!! All he needed was the temp gauge and cicuit board on back tho. Maybe he will sell the tach?

Yep, read his other post! Its gotta be the VSS!

Oh boy! Here we go again!! I've been dealing with the same thing for a while. Its electric not cable driven. Either your vehicle speed sensor could be bad(located in the tailshaft of the tranny) or the speedometer head itself could be bad. Ive done lots of work trying to narrow it down and finally did. I had to get another speedometer head. All the research I've done has lead me to finding the 94-95 models have faulty instrument clusters. If you pull the VSS from the tranny and hook a volt meter up to the 2 terminals on it, you can test it to see if its your problem. Place your meter on a/c voltage and spin the gear. The faster you spin it the higher the volts will climb. If so, its good and your speedometer head is the culprit! If not, the sensor is bad. Anyway, hope i've helped and good luck!!

I think 14! Isnt that the VSS?

Nice man!!! real nice. Just curious, did that thing add much weight back there or was it appr with all the stk components?