95shakinPF

They do make after market coils that are similar to the coil on our pathys(higher amps of course) that can be placed in the original location(one comes to mind made by ACCEL). I agree with you as you say the boxes are way too pricey! Most ignition wires are 7mm and some are 8mm. Im not sure whats on the pathy,probably 7mm. I would definitely get bigger wires if you do get the after market coil (at least 8mm or bigger). Anything smaller than that would be a waste to a higher coil. As far as the distributor noise, I would pop the cap off a have a look. You may have a rotor button going bad or the dust shield in there may have popped up and hitting on the rotor. Check that out first and see what you find!! Good luck!

Actually that sounds like a good idea! Hopefully you may not have to go into the engine(water pump and t-belt)if it is the fan clutch assy,saving you time and money! Keep us informed and Good Luck! P.S. I know all my drag strip buddy's(motor heads, as we're called by some) love the nissan maxima dual fan assy. Maybe you can find one of those babys and keep it double kool!! Or, maybe find a Dodge Intrepid (there should be plenty of those POS's in the JY) I'm pretty sure they have dual fans as well!!

Xmas, I have worked at stealership parts depts for about 10 years! I gotta tell you that if those are genuine Nissan parts JUMP ON IT!!!!!!!!

Yes, unfortunately you will have to pull the timing covers as the water pump goes all the way across the whole front of the block! There are posts in here about t-belt replacements however a Haynes, Chilton, or Factory service manual will be helpful as there are a few things to be careful of! My Haynes manual was the essential tool in the step by step process. You will have to take your harmonic balancer off the crank and will need a balancer puller for this.(Other than this and a breaker bar all other tools are basic sockets and wrenches) I removed my starter and wedged a tire iron in the flywheel teeth to be able to break the bolt loose on the crank,(per Haynes manual) then I read about wedging a breaker bar on the frame and "bumping" the key to get it loose(which sounds a whole lot easier than R & R the damn starter like I did!). Point Im trying to make is read up on the process before actually going at it, then if you get stuck someone will be around to give you some info and help! As far as actually changing the timing belt, I pulled the #1 plug and used a flathead screwdriver to get the piston to TDC as well as looking at the rotor in the distributor! Once youve got TDC then proceed to tear everything apart,loosen the t-belt tensioner-slide the old belt off- slide the new belt on-tighten the tensioner back up and double check all your t-marks as per manual. Oh yeah,If I can recall correctly,the crank bolt is size 26mm! Someone will probably correct me if I am wrong on that one! If you need any more assistance on this, dont hesitate to E-mail or PM me. Ill try to keep an eye on this thread as well to see how it turns out!! GOOD LUCK! Billy

If you are absolutely sure that your oil sending unit and filter are not the problem. And your 100% sure the valve covers are not the source of the leak, bad news cuz!! You've got a rear main leaking!

agreed with uncc!! even if its too expensive or no longer available,Nissan should be able to give you a part # that you may be able to cross reference? When I was into VW bugs(@15 years ago) there was a company that re-made every rubber piece ever available on a VW bug. West Coast Metrics is the name of them and I dont know if they exists anymore or make anything other than VW stuff, but it may be worth a look!! Again, good luck!! Sorry nevermind they only deal with VW's!!

I wish I could help you with this one but its the last thing on my original equipment fixes list! I still gotta fix the speedo then the alarm! Mine LED on the switch flashes fast all the time in all positions and the alarm will not go off at any time(THANK GOD!!) I havent looked into it yet but Im thinking either the switch is bad or I have no power leaving the switch(duh!! meaning the switch is probably bad!!) However, the speedo is more important first, so good luck and lemme know how you make out with it!

Yes, your correct on the universal joint for the thermostat housing!! Sorry about your still over heating problem, I thought I had it diagnosed correctly with the sticking thermostat! Good luck on the water pump replacement,hope it goes well. I just replaced mine 3 weeks ago (not to hard of a job) trust me i've done way worse WP jobs! P.S. You may wanna grab a t-belt as well while your there replacing the water pump!

Look under your hood on passenger side against the back firewall, there is a bosch relay. This is the fog light relay on my 95XE, follow the black wire up toward the battery and check the fuse there(or possibly someone removed the fuselink and added a fuse there). If your talking about the interior light not coming on when the door is open,check the connection against the bulb in the light itself. Mine keeps going out intermittently and simply tapping the light assy makes it come back on. I have tried bending the contact tabs inside the lamp assy to hold the bulb tighter but it seems to get loose again after a few days. Or I guess you could have a faulty door pin switch! Lemme know what you find!!

Thanks for all the "water warnings" I had not thought of that. I've been thinking of making my own MAF adapter(IM a machinist), but I keep finding universal ones at the parts stores for @ $12 and I think all Ill have to do if enlarge the existing mount holes a little to get it to work! I thought I have read a post about boring the MAF housing. Has anyone had any luck or success from doing this?

CONGRATS ON THE NEW PATHY!!!!!!!!!! The rocker switch all the way up toward the center console should be ARM. The center position IMPACT ONLY, All the way down should be OFF! Hope this helps! CONGRATS again! Now I wanna see some pics!! OH YEAH! Nice choice! 95XE!!............. ME TOO! Lemme know if you need any more help!

AMEN, BROTHER, A-MEN!!! Electrical problems #1 flaw

Well Im not exactly sure how many miles are on mine. I just got her about 3mos ago and the speedo didnt work. Right now it still reads 020,634! the car fax report shows the last recorded mileage on her was 019,932. So now...whats this about recalls? Wonder what recalls she will qualify for?!!! 1995 XE 2WD 020,634miles

I believe maintenance is the key to a tranny holding up, as well as an external cooler! It would also depend on what kind of abuse you put it through.Yes, I do think your being a little paranoid.

I believe the door lock timer may be your problem as well!

He is talking about the door lock timer! drivers side,around the wheel well area. take off the plastic trim inside the cargo area and look at the boxes in there. It says door lock timer right on the little box! Let us know if you have any luck!!

Yup your right, sorry I wasnt thinking of the king cabs

It sounds like youve got yourself a project! Best thing is to take the body off(if its really that bad) and TAKE YOUR TIME!!! If you do a rush job, then thats what you will have in the end! (a junk rush job!!) Good luck and send those pics!!

there is no center console in a hardbody p/u! I dont think keyless entry is available from factory in a hardbody

Try removing top and bottom hoses from radiator and flushing it with a water hose yourself. This will tell you a great deal about the condition of your radiator(clogged or freeflowing).These hoses are basically easy to reach to disconnect. If you have a fast flow of water, then I would lean toward a sticking thermostat! (I have seen this before) Old coolant will gum up and glue the thermostat shut! Good luck!

In case anyone else is having similar problems(and just FYI) the red and black wire does not supply power to the driver door switch. In fact it is the solid white wire which supplies power to the switch. Also without this switch having power, all other window switches will not work!! I hope this info may help someone in the future and good luck!

Yeah, what he said! These tires can be expensive so just keep an old tire for your spare. Yes I would get rid of the old spare if its as bad as you say, you may get stuck without a spare if it blows out immediately after putting it on the vehicle( Ive had this happen to me before)! good luck!

HA!!!!! AFTER ALL THE *@&%*# I WENT THROUGH WITH THE DASH, IT WAS A CORRODED FUSE LINK THE WHOLE TIME!!!!!! IVE GOT POWER WINDOWS AND DOOR LOCKS!! WOOHOO!!!!!

I have a 1995 pathy with pwr windows/door locks that dont work. Im trying to figure out which wire is supposed to supply power to the door lock/pwr window switch. At present I have no power to the switch at all. I believe its the red w/ black stripe wire. I have traced this wire all the way under the dash behind the fuse panel and still no power. It runs into a main harness that is taped up and goes towards the top of the dash next to the firewall and is impossible to get to unless I remove the dash. I cannot find this wire anywhere else. Can anyone tell me if this wire is the power supply for the switch? Also, does anyone know where this wire goes to, to receive power? It does not go to the fuse panel assy, unless it changes color in the main harness somewhere. Please help if you are familiar with this circuit!!!! Thanks, Billy