Strato_54
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Posts posted by Strato_54
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29 minutes ago, Mr_Reverse said:
When the engine is under high load and very low RPM, knocking is normal. It isn't good for the engine since it is metal on metal contact but a few times generally won't be a problem. At the low rpms, there is low oil pressure and flow. The oil flowing at operating pressure normally keeps all the moving parts floating so they don't make actual contact. When the pressure drops low enough, the moving parts like the crank, rods, pistons, and cams come into contact and it is violent and unhealthy. That is why most engine wear happens on cold starts.
ok so then user error got it. didnt sound very nice but it still runs fine. had a feeling that was what it was but wasnt sure what i was hearing for those few seconds. it wouldnt have done much hurt as it knocked 2 times stalled and i did it again same thing 2 knock then stall. not under intense load but had enough. should be fine then thanks for clearing my nerves
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i would take a few interior pieces like dash trim. and i would also take switches like for the windows and the locks. turn signal lever and wiper lever. sell the steering wheel on ebay for a few bucks. i personally would keep the things that i would expect to break over time or on accident or just things i know i would need to replace or would like to have an extra of for later but enough to fit in a bigger plastic bin or 2
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5 minutes ago, CALPATHY said:
If you have a bad knock sensor then I've been told that the ignition is then retarded due to faulty sensor, if true then it should not the sensor.
alright makes me feel a little better about not having something more catastrophic. the thing still runs great and drives great so i guess it was just one of those small things
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Probably a stupid question but I’m at my shop and was giving the transfer case a work out in the snow but I let it dip to low RPM in 4H and letting out the clutch and right before I stalled it there was a knocking and once it started again it sounded fine. Is this just because of low rpm and under lots of load or something else? I did it twice and each time after it sounds fine. I also have a bad knock sensor bank one so that could also be it
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Local Co-op is closed only gas pumps are open, walmart has isles only moving one way theres lines up outside another store and smaller stores only allow 1 family member and if small enough 1 person at a time. Tims and mc Ds are drive thru only. lordco auto parts has floor stickers you must stand on when talking to the people at the desk and at the register about 6 feet away and meat is selling out faster then the new iphone. overall not the worst as other places are on complete lock down but we still are getting the deep end up here in British Columbia. the great white north is coming down with the cold.
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My tool kit does indeed come with these spark plug pullers or what ever you would call them there are 2 of them in the kit
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1 hour ago, RainGoat said:
The sad fact is that adding a camera will just add something else they steal. In Seattle, when they stole my Maxima & broke into my Pathfinder in a locked garage, the police didn’t even want to see the video of the Ford Ranger they brought in with their tools.
i was meaning stick it in a window in the house if available or something not so much inside of the car itself. with him mentioning it being an apartment may not be so easy to do.
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44 minutes ago, RainGoat said:
I did blue too but now I’m wonder if that was a great choice with all the recommendations against blue light at night. I’m not sure red would look as good & I can’t say I care for the green at all.i bought mine on amazon and the options were blue white red and orange. i went with blue because that wwas my first choice but i ordered the wrong ones. the smaller idiot lights are 74. so far im really into it but maybe orange wouldn't be so bad. the ones i got were auxito 194
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26 minutes ago, DonutHands said:
So this happened the night before last. This morning I find that they tried the driver door now.
Now neither door will accept my key.
you might want to get some cameras or park your car in the garage or down the street from now on. if they're dumb enough to do it twice they'll do it a third
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16 minutes ago, DonutHands said:
Even with all the cars here in LA, its a joke trying find anything. It's all auto dismantlers and the pick a part places are picked clean daily. Plus, who would buy this god awful teal color.
theres gotta be one around somewhere that you can steal a door off of
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i feel that exact pain they did it to mine when i was younger in a pool parking lot but they actually got in and the sheet metal is way more pushed back and open then yours you can stick a finger between the cylinder and the panel. and seeing youre in LA theres probably a few JY that are near you that have this colour and panel. you can get replacement cylinders from nissan.
what im going to do since mine is driver side is pull the lift gate cylinder and use that so my ignition key still works in the door and the rogue key goes to the back door since that key is an odd one out and only for 1 door.
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LED dash lights a success. Only thing is the HVAC I couldn’t for the life of me figure out how to take that apart
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9 minutes ago, Slartibartfast said:
He's saying you can run the auto trans rad and just leave the trans cooler capped off. It's the same rad otherwise.
no no i get that part but theyre still stupid expensive even for the auto trans rad at my nissan dealer.
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33 minutes ago, adamzan said:
You can use the auto trans radiator on the manual. I did that on mine as all the aftermarkets are the same (with the trans cooler in the bottom).
i guess but they still didnt make any for my model i guess but oh well who knows what will happen. i dont need it until it gets road ready. it still holds coolant the filler neck is just really wonky and doesnt hold pressure. its not the cap its hard to explain but im better off with a new rad then this one because of this issue
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22 minutes ago, adamzan said:
Yes it would be a dealer thing, but they are dirt cheap. At least they used to be.
well since it being canada everything is stupid expensive but they keys i would imagine are a few bucks and if not then screw that ill just weld them on lmao
i called nissan about a new radiator and they want over 800 for an oem one and they dont have any others that fit the car because its a manual so no trans lines. absolutely absurd. the timing belt stuff from them wasnt that cheap either so thats why rock auto is going to save me i think
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3 hours ago, adamzan said:
If you're replacing any hoses, the bypass hose is the one to do. It can be done afterwards but is a pain to get to. If the rad hoses are in good shape you can probably leave them. I've never replaced the key on any of mine, but that's not saying I've done things right either. The cam and crank seals have bit me in the ass like Slartibartfast as well. My crank seal started leaking 3 months after the job and of course before a long weekend road trip was to take place lol.
The parts are pretty cheap on rock auto, so if you can stretch it I would just do it all.
@Mr_Reverse aren't the keyways only an issue on the earlier VG's? I've never had a problem with any of mine, but they are all 94 and up. I do recall several people having issues with the (basically square tooth belt time frame) versions. I'm pretty sure they changed the design at one point. The VG33 style is definitely different.
Yeah I’ve never used rock auto but they look really good. But it’s about 500 CAD for everything I need and want which is pretty alright. And if I’m changing keys then that’s a dealer thing I couldn’t find any online
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7 hours ago, Slartibartfast said:
Don't forget the water pump bypass hose.
Oh yeah I forgot to list that I got it thanks
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Ok so heres my shopping list. lower hose for pipe to rad and engine to pipe upper hose, spectra rad since i screwed mine, gates thermostat 2 beck/arnly front cam seals 1 front fel pro crank seal and GATES TCKWP249 water pump belt and tensioner. that is my current list of new shiny things from rock auto because my auto parts store is way expensive
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50 minutes ago, Mr_Reverse said:
When I bought my Pathfinder (1993 SE) in 1999, it had 128k miles on it with no records of any maintenance on it. I figured to replace the timing belt just for safety sake. A year and about 10k miles later, had the water pump lock up in Sam's club parking lot. I was just picking up stuff for a week of camping that my family did every year for the 4th of July week. Told my mom that I would fix my truck and meet up after. Got the truck fixed there in the parking lot but did turn into a long day of disaster that wound up stressing me and me getting to camp a day and a half late. About 6onths later, I was back in there again because I developed oil leaks from the seals. Oil and rubber are not good together. A couple years later, the sprocket key chewed out the keyway in the crankshaft leading to the cam timing to go out. I patched it up with JB Weld and got a almost a year more before it got very bad and the valves and pistons introduced themselves to each other. By that time I had rounded up a replacement engine and had the fun of swapping in a 3.3 from an Xterra that had taken a side trip in a R50 before it got to me.
Long story short, would have saved myself a lot of time and money if I had simply spent an extra $60 when I had first replaced my timing belt. That key after taxes cost me a whopping 97 cents at the local dealership. For the cost of a dollar, I destroyed a rather expensive engine that wound up costing me about $900 and many hours.
While in there, makes sense to replace rubber and moving parts. Hoses and thermostat are right there, easy to get to while apart and cheap, why not replace them then?
fair enough but right now its a matter of more money out then in as our 6 leaker blew a head gasket and took out the HPOP and other stuff along with it, armada needs a slough of parts and the pathfinder is kinda the least amount of priority. But then a again with it being 90k km it hasnt met the full service schedule and its been sitting for the most part for the past 8 years or so maybe 7 and like driven from the garage to the drive way every 4 months until i took it over. so it would make sense to change all this stuff while im here since its been sitting neglected. i will do thermostat since rock auto is cheap as dirt it seems as for hoses i might take my chance on that one since they are still in good condition as it doesnt see ANY road use as i still have to get it inspected. it should be on the road properly around august maybe july. i do understand the job but just dont know the exacts of this motor, and basically im replacing everything that i remove to get to the belt. this week ill probably order everything such as thermostat, cam and crank seals, belt, tensioner, water pump, keys and i think thats all that i can think of. i have to replace the rad here soon so ill probably do the hoses when i do that job
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I was looking at this listing here but it doesn't appear to come with the seals or the keys. if its a super strong reccomendation that i get the seals front main, cam shaft and what not then ill do that since it looks like rock auto is cheap as dirt compared to my local lordco. what would be a full list of things to change in here? So far ive got the following in my head, add or remove what ever from here:
Cam seals
Crank seal
water pump
tensioner
belt obv.
all the keys what ever those look like
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39 minutes ago, Mr_Reverse said:
Strongly recommend a full kit. Belt, tensioner, water pump, cam seals, front main seal, and new key for the crankshaft sprocket. The real expenses in the timing belt replacement is the labor, book is something like 5.2 hrs. You really don't want to have to go back in there in a few months when the water pump fails or an oil seal starts leaking. Not replacing the $1 key has wrecked 3 engines I knew personally, first one of them was mine.
Ok woah woah woah hold up. Are the seals a km thing or like the older the are the more brittle they get. I was just planning on doing belt only since it’s only got 90,700 km on the motor. I guess seals makes sense. But what key are you talking about?
EDIT: never mind i know what key had a slow moment there. but rest of my question still stands is it a must or not really? if i can get away with just belt hey right on but if its a yeah i slightly encourage the full kit then ill just do that. and i have to go to nissan again at some point this week for a washer fluid pump for our armada
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44 minutes ago, adamzan said:
I have used aftermarket belts without any problems. But the OEM ones have perfect alignment marks and are only a few dollars more.
so basically what ever i can get my hands on. gotcha
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truth be told i have not yet changed the belt but it has been going strong. took it out for a cruise the other day to get the fluids moving and accidentally over revved it passed 4k on the up shift but none the less belt has held on. BUT i still plan on changing it. The question came into my head of when i do change my belt should i go aftermarket belt such as Gates or should i go OEM nissan belt. what is over all a better made belt, does anyone have a preference or does it just not matter along as its not a no name from amazon
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41 minutes ago, mjotrainbrain said:
Not unusual, it's a *fantastic* little pocket for junk to collect in and rot through. Yaaaaaaay rust!
its only drivers side which makes it even more annoying but if i can justify cutting it and then painting the open spots then might as well
Stay at home.......bored....
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
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some people still chooses to go out and party and others choose to throw a ball in the air and catch it in their house. but going out to a shop that you and only you goto during this time is great choice to keep buys but also stay safe from the public where you have the chance of getting sick. im doing the same thing im doing a rad swap, fan swap, filters, timing belt, seals and all this coming week or so. opening spotify and wrenching stuff is going to be what saves me from boredom this coming weeks. and i suggest heating the area first with an electric heat gun or something along those lines. every time ive ever heated my area and then painted helped a lot with it curing to the primer and the primer to the object.