Strato_54
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Posts posted by Strato_54
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Can confirm my 97 Steelies were a 15". Now i have a 16 with an unknown offset, with only fender liner rub.
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Maybe he installed an ECU cut. I've thought of going that far, but not really sure how worth it that really is. I have a manual and never thought of the starter because of that. Fuel pump is a better option, but thats a pretty common one, someone might figure it out pretty quick.
If all the windows and blower motor still function but theres no dash activity, that's where I would think he cut into.
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For a few monthes i did door dash. I was delivering to an apartment building and there were no open spots except a handicap spot, which I obviously didn't park in. I parked next to the sidewalk, had my hazards on and all. I walked to the back door to grab the food, and as I'm standing there a Dodge mini van backed into the door as it was fully wide open and i was standing there. T-Bone scenario, but the door acted like a knife. The only damage to my pathy is a little paint chip on the side, and a the door being slightly off. But you really REALLY have to be looking for it. Totaled her car though lol. After that I swear the keys will have to be pulled from my cold dead fingers.
You should put some rally stripes on after that one though!
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That sounds pretty metallic. I don't think that would be coming from the manifold. The sound has a really solid ring to it, manifold leaks don't have that type of ring. How does your oil filter look?
edit: it seems louder on the driver side, maybe its head related?
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On 3/15/2023 at 10:33 AM, hawairish said:
No sweat, @Everett. We've all gotten frustrated at a repair or two. It's to be expected on older trucks.
So, it actually sounds like you just need a re-work. Initially I thought you greased the bolts and tightened to spec, but I think what you're saying is that you only snugged them and the grease was to allow the bushings to rotate in their mounts. If so, the correction here would be to:
- Put the truck on the ground
- Loosen the bolts a little (also do for the panhard bar, just in case)
- Get the suspension to settle to ride height (a few bounces on the bumpers and door sills ought to do)
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Tighten all bolts to spec
- Rear upper link: 103-116 ft-lbs
- Rear lower link: 85-98 ft-lbs for the forward hardware, 103-116 ft-lbs rearward hardware
- Panhard bar: 103-116 ft-lbs
- Front lower control arm: 69-96 ft-lbs for the forward bolt, 87-108 ft-lbs for the bolts that hold the bracket securing the tail bushing.
If you haven't already, get all the FSM chapters from https://www.nicoclub.com/nissan-service-manuals. You'll find all the instructions there, parts diagrams, troubleshooting steps, torque specs, notes (straight from the book: "Final tightening for rubber parts requires to be carried out under unladen condition with tires on ground."), etc. Get all the PDFs and save them to your computer.
Good instrustions. I completely negleted the fact it says it should be tightened on the ground, in the FSM when I did mine a few days ago. Looks like I'm retorquing those my next days off. Thanks for your awesome input as always.
On the strut tower thing, I could actually hear chassis groaning from that corner going over uneven surfaces. If you hear that noise from that direction, get it patched ASAP
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I'm a huge Efan fan. I've been running them for almost a year with really great success. I have put out info on how mine have performed so far, but 100% they won't move as much air a mechanical fan will. You either need a lot of fans, or really good ones. I have the 5spd, so the change was very much noticeable to me, especially when i was still on my stock small wheel setup.
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16 minutes ago, Mrelcocko said:
Exactly what was the reason. I’m not trying to sound like a jerk just curious what’s the benefit of it having an electric fan?
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkI was mostly after the throttle response. I have the 5spd and shifting felt way too slow. Dropping the fan woke it right up, shifting and throttle blips are super fast. 5th doesn't feel nearly as held back on the highway, and it brought my throttle usage down from 7-10% to about 4-6 doing 60KM (blue driver results). My overall milage has been crushed due to a growing vacuum leak which isn't really helping me estimate that, but it has been a lot more consitant with Efans.
edit: The side benefit is being able to swap all my belts in about 5 minutes, and my whole fan/shroud setup can be removed with the rad as one unit.
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Wonder who's oddly familiar R50 that is in the back?
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Never ended up actually posting my E-Fan swap besides some info on another post. If I had to do it again, dual 12" not 10.
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I've done bushings only and not the arms, and if you can get the arms for cheap just do that. I ended up having to cut out my old bushings from the arms with a torch, and the bolts that hold them to the rear end. Although it ended up working really good for me, it was an absolute pain to do. If you think you can get them out easily, still buy the arms with the bushings already installed....
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I've had to install a few VHF radios in some trucks, but one I had the antenna run near a power cable for a light bar, and on another truck it was looped back on itself. Both of these had terrible reception and one had static only when the truck was running. Make sure the antenna cable is insulated very well. Adding more insulation and unlooping the other fixed the problem.
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When I had to redo both of mine, only the 1st one would actually work even though the flashers went. After the flashers go, unlock then lock the door with the switch. This for some reason worked. I found that on page 5 after google surfing. Not sure why all the other instrustions didnt mention this.
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Used wheel and tire worked out better than I thought. Still need to clean them up, but they ride way better than before.
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The error free ones are the only ones I buy, even when its not necessary. They just seem to work better and last longer.
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I decided to go in a cruise and ended up at the shop. And I can confirm there are 0 pins in sight. Even in the box of parts I have that I didn’t know what to do with on mine. I would just put silicone in there to seal the belt from water since that’s all it appears to be. No holes in the block either.
All I ever do anyways is dab a bit of grease. Never hurts and it holds it there pretty good. Stick it to the pump with a bolt or 2 for alignment and it’s on.
Pics are the best I could get shop has basically 0 light
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Currently helping my brother do the timing belt on his 95. These pins arent there on his and it was dealer only maintained. Maybe its a seal for the gap between the 2 surfaces? Don't remember them on my VG33 either, if it had them at least.
edit: my bad i didnt realise this was the older wd21 section
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I can not confidently answer 2 and 3, but as for the shims those are a "quide" and to keep it away from the pump. The dome shame should be on both and should go on facing each other, not facing out. This is how my unopened vg33 came and to me makes sense the way it goes together as the shaper edge on the shim would catch the belt if it was ever to start walking.
EDIT: This is also how my brothers 95 came as well now that I think about it
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It's the certifacation that makes web broswers know the site is considered safe. It expired at 3:59 yesterday and at 4:30 I got the message after not getting it that morning. Not a huge deal otherwise, just gonna be annoying for a bit.
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The "Service Engine Soon" light should be the same as "Check Engine".
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Bank 1 is usually determined by the location of cylinder 1. Sensor 1 is Pre-catalytic and sensor 2 is after. I just took an old socket and cut a notch out of the side, and filed down the edge.
EDIT: NO IM WRONG. it is bank 2 on the VQ but its still determined by the 1st cylinder
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The oil pump is located on the front of the motor, behind the harmonic balancer and timing belt. Removing the timing belt sprocket and alignment plates will reveal the seal.
The service manual does state you need to remove the oil pan to remove the pump. (LC-5)
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Here is the diagram and specs for the clutch and pressure plate (CL-11). The fly wheel is speced at 61-69 FT-LBS (EM-37)
Welcome to the forum!
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The larger bulbs for the back lighting like in your picture should be a 194. And the smaller bulbs for the indicator lights should be a T5. These are what I purchased to swap my entire dash to LED.
You shouldn't need a new base. The bulbs will pull out with some force.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0714DTL8Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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I've been running Efans for a few months now and have learned quite a lot. I am running Dual 10" fans from amazon part# RAF-10-RD+FMK-X2 just wired to a switched ignition signal. I did run the Hayden fan controller but that died after 2 months. part# 3651. I made my own fan shroud out of 1x1 aluminum angle and some checkerplate i had lying around. With just the fans and shroud with no special ducting (this matters) around the sides to force the air through the rad.
My rad temps in the B.C summers were around the 200F mark on the highway cruising 100km/hr through mountains, while around town it would sit around the 190F mark. Now with the ducting (Foam tape, door scrape seal is what I used) it likes to jump between 186-188 cruising, and highway/hills it likes to sit at 194F, sometimes 200 if its real hot or I'm pushing it. I have noticed an increased performance of the AC, but with out the ducting the temp gauge will rise and the AC will start to go warm. (not sure what temp, but about 3/4) unless you start crawling. Adding the seal makes a difference for sure.
Gas milage is hard to say though, but sometimes ill get 450+ KM out of a tank, just town driving with hills. I don't do much highway driving, and havnt had the chance to test the difference. Though I'm confident it will be better.
Performance :). Having the Manual trans lets me feel a lot more than the autos IMO. The response is great, the low end power isnt changed much, but the higher end RPMs feel less held back and I use less throttle to hold 60km/hr. (Before around 7-10%, now 4-6% according to bluedriver) Usually I would never pass, as in the mountains it just feels way to under powered to do anything with out feeling like youre pushing it too hard. Now dropping into 3rd and hammering down feels way more impresive, and merging makes me a little more confident. I do how ever have a PCV delete, which really only made my 2000K and lower RPM more responsive. it would either idle or sit at 2k before.
I myself am quite happy with these result as I get a boat loads of room to work in the engine bay, and changing a belt takes no more than 5 minutes.
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‘98 VG33 specific cylinder misfire
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted · Edited by Strato_54
I went with the BOSCH cap on rock auto. Its a brand I know, and so far has been working fine. Same quality I would say as the cap that came off it or better. I think I saw a bosch brand distro when I talked to my local parts guy about other caps. Didn't have the cap in stock.