Strato_54
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Posts posted by Strato_54
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For years on end the SES light has been on. back in july it finally turned off on its own and has been off since. when i turn the car on it comes on then once its started it goes away. i was borrowing a scanner from my buddy and was curious if anything would come up and i got a bank 1 knock sensor code and when i deleted it and restarted the car it would come back but still no SES light or anything. it runs perfectly fine no issues that would be from this sensor. should i worry about it since theres no problems surfacing?
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im really liking that shade of blue it looked sick
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33 minutes ago, colinnwn said:
The only way I've run wires into the cab, and it would be a long route for this, is inside the driver wheel well to a grommet I took out that is just above and to the left of the hood release cable entry.
I have a post about it related to installing electric trailer brakes. Finding that was probably the most miserable part of the whole install. I spent countless hours looking for some way to do this without just drilling a hole in the firewall.
Then after all that work, my engine died within a year... Lol...
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
i know exactly where youre talking about thats where i ran my trailer power, amp cables and led light whires. i mean the part under the radio stack that meets the shifter boot. when you pull back the trim around the shifter at least on the manuals, it meets to the stack. i cant get it into the stack because i think there are hidden bolts but cant find any. or the best way to run a wire from the switch covers by the cup holders to behind the radio. the wheel wells are my favourite spots since it takes no drilling but a pain to say the least
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In my 97 ive got the manual and 4x4. i install some leds and ran the switch to the 3 caps next to the hand brake. i tried pilling off the shifter boot and the trim around it to run along the edge of the boot to under my dash. there were 2 8mm bolts from what i can remember and i tried to pull the plastic up to feel the wire under and through. it would not come off. are there any other bolts on the side of this or clips that were preventing me from running them through this spot. or is there any other way thats better when im running wires from the other 2 caps in that spot?
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6 hours ago, Calr said:
No it still doesnt crank, and battery is fine, idk if the click means from the engine means anything though.
i know the battery is fine but if it makes the same click as if it was dead then maybe faulty starter. try turning the engine by the crank and see if its catching on something maybe
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1 hour ago, Calr said:
Also, click from engine when you try to crank
wait so it just clicks now or does it fully crank? as if dead like a dead battery type of click?
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43 minutes ago, Calr said:
Its not saying that it is that relay, that was just a guess of mine. Someone else had that problem. So i wanted to completely make sure that was it. And i dont really have a way of checking it.
ohhh my bad i mis read it then
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i mean if it says that relay then by logic its that relay? you cant start a car in drive or reverse obviously but you can in neutral and park. maybe the relay telling the car its in one of those positions is bad? thats pretty logical no?
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i know 100% that you can swap the rear axles from the wd21 to gain disc brakes, but you also need to get a few other things from like a frontier or something like that. not too sure what else other then that
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yes, it s true that there is little to none aftermarket parts for the pathfinder. BUT what is available can definitely make you build a very capable machine. Like said above from @FirstGenFreak has a decent little list there for some basic things. Not sure if youve been in the NPORA scene for very long or any of the online pathy forums and pages but you can get some ideas pretty quick here. Good luck fellow pathy brother!
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3 hours ago, colinnwn said:
Do you have the FSM? It makes it very easy to determine the line and color. Who knows how hard the access will be. I could look in mine, but it is for 2001 and could be considerably different since they have different engines.
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i found it online on the nico site. ill have to look around for the wire loom section in the whole thing. or ill just do it stupid and just grab a test light and a multimeter
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3 hours ago, mvlzmarv said:
Cut into the line anywhere between the ecu and fuel pump. I haven’t done it in an R50 but I’ve done it in other cars and I used to just cut the line right off the ecu to add the switch
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalki just have to figure out what line is what and where basically now
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1 hour ago, XPLORx4 said:
I did this already. To do so, run a 16awg wire pair from inside the cabin where your switch is mounted through the firewall. I route my wires through the diamond shaped plate where the clutch cylinder would have been attached. Run the wires (inside a wire loom for protection) along the cowl beside the brake lines and down to the fuse box behind the battery.
First, pop out the fuel pump fuse. Turn the ignition to ON and using a voltmeter, check which one of the fuse terminals is hot. The non-hot side goes to the fuel pump. You will be cutting the wire on that side of the fuse later. Turn off the ignition and replace the fuse.Unbolt the fuse box. Remove the alternator wire from the stud on the fuse box. You may also need to remove the positive battery cable to give you more room to work on the fuse box. Use small flat screwdrivers to pop open the clips holding the upper and lower halves of the fuse box together. Locate the fuel pump fuse. Cut the FP fuse wire you identified earlier and connect the ends of your switch wires to the the cut wire. You should use male/female solderless connectors on the OEM cut wire in case you want to undo the mod later. Route your wires along the existing wire bundle, then snap the top and bottom halves together. Put it al back together and you’re done!
The only issue with that is I do have a clutch. So I would have to run it through the fender liner which I’ve already done multiple times. Would I be able to cut the hot wire run that to my switch and then run it back to where the other end of the hot would go to the fuse? I’m low on space and can’t really pull the tire if I’m running to the battery. My fuse is inside the cab under the steering wheel
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I want to install an elite modification that only a very small amount of people will ever tackle in their life time on select vehicles. A hidden fuel pump switch somewhere on my 97. I know where im going to put it, but im not gonna say where for obvious reasons. BUT im not sure what wires im gonna need for this one. Where would i find the fuel pump relay wire under the dash if one, and if there are any better ideas on how to make the kill switch even better then just fuel pump. Any and all input is welcome, but mostly wiring info. Thanks
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pretty much all after market radios like sony, JVC, Alpine have a little wire for the controls. But like stated above you need a controller for them.
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1 hour ago, Teesetz said:
Good to know. And it might be a dumb question but i shouldn’t have to worry about water getting in the intake? Under the assumption the frontier and pathfinder would receive air the same way
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalkif youre going up to the hood and doing real deep stuff in the mud, or full on spraying the filter while its running then no you should be fine. theres no way really for water to get that high and ruin anything. Unless youre driving through a hurricane
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as long as you have the engine bay space for it and it mounts some what the same yeah sure. I know people that have tig welded their own intake pipes and just thrown an K and N filter on the end of it and works perfectly fine
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11 hours ago, trenton163 said:
Hi Everyone,
It's been awhile since I have been on here. Since my last activity on here I have moved, gone to college and started my career. All the while my pathfinder has been siting in my garage back home waiting to be resurrected...
I has been sitting in an enclosed garage for about 8 years. these are the things that I know that I am going to do to get it back on the road:
-Replace all fluids, Oil, ATF, PS, PB
-Remove old gas, (I foolishly didn't put in any fuel stabilizer)
-Replace Battery
-Possibly new tires? ( they where almost brand new last time I drove it and they are still holding air, but there may be flat spots)
Can anybody suggest anything that I maybe forgetting or overlooking. Any advice is much appreciated.
Thanks
i personally dont think tires. i mean you should but even a small flat spot might come out once it gets rolling. as long as they arent rotten or showing their age and what not then they might be alright. Like raingoat said you should check brakes. And also check and make sure that there are no rodents living inside the engine bay
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8 hours ago, mpilihp said:
I dont think the brake control will have connectivity if adapting from 4 to 7, those extra wires are needed for the brake control.
I've found on eTrailer.com that there are adapter setups for the PF but different if you have the tow package or not. Seams they all come with a hitch receiver so not sure what is considered the tow package so I know which wiring harness/setup to buy.
Thanks
~ Phil
all the 4pin is really, is a ground, left, right and brake light power. if you cut the 4 pin off and put it into the 7 pin plug will still work you just run your brake wire to the pin on the 7 pin for the trailer. and then if you ever needed get a cheap 7 pin to 4 pin adapter again and use that for a trailer with out a 7pin or brakes. I did exactly this on my 97. i installed the 4 pin wiring harness for the lights cut off the end and just put it into my 7 pin plug built into my bumper. it works like it should with no issues what so ever
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On 1/6/2020 at 4:49 PM, mpilihp said:
So Im a new Pathfinder owner and Im looking to use it to two a trailer. In my stated anything over 3K lbs needs brakes and my trailer has electric brakes.
I see there is a standard 4 wire trailer plug on the hitch, but I am looking to add the electric brake port to connect the trailer to and add an electric brake controller on the dash.
Are there adapter cables available to just plug into the existing wiring harness for both items?
Thank You ~ Phil
the 4 pin trailer plugs dont have brakes. There probably is an adapter that can add on the 7 pin connector with out cutting the 4 pin. IMO i would cut the 4pin on the car thats already there and just wire it to a 7 pin plug and just use a 7pin to 4 pin adapter for any other trailer with no brakes. Or buy a plug thing with the 7 pin adn the 4 pin
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48 minutes ago, hawairish said:
@Strato_54 FWIW, I just keyed this up...given your use and hesitation, if you're considering hubs at all still, the RR-style hubs are a reasonable alternative.
Haven't decided on what ones yet but as of right now the mile markers are probably gonna be me pick. I have heard though out side of here that the chrome sucks and it peeks but in reality ill probably take them apart and paint them myself if they do that. I am very happy with all the info that has come out of this thread and now its just a matter of when i decide i want them . but coming in to this i was pretty on the fence but now im all for them
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3 hours ago, XPLORx4 said:
IMO, installation of manual hubs is not one of the first things of importance when spending money on upgrades for a stock vehicle. Save the hundred or so dollars and put it to use elsewhere, such as better tires, recovery gear, air compressor, automatic tire deflators, or better camping gear. You may save some money on gas by installing manual hubs, but unless you drive A LOT, it'll take several years to break even on the gas savings. I would recommend installing hubs when you decide to lift it, and factor in the cost of the hubs with the suspension components when you save up enough money. It'll reduce wear on the CV boots.
well ill be mainly using my pathy to drive to work and school everyday and then here and there to the store when i need. I was thinking of an air compressor like a viair light duty kit or something along those lines and ive got decent tires. Theyre a little small but theyre BFG 235/75 KO and theyre practically brand new. Obviously im not going to spend money on tires when these are barely used at all but for now theyre pretty right on. And camping gear i never thought much about actually. ive got good sleeping bags and an alright tent but i dont have many chairs. I have a bunch o tear drop trailers since thats what we build at my company but i dont have a hitch for my pathy. i need one of those height adjustable ones since i built my bumper and hitch. I guess youre right though with waiting for a lift but even then im sold on getting manuals
EDIT: even too if i were to get hubs i have no where to get them since i live in a small town in southern interior BC so it would either be a road trip to the next bigger town or buy warn premiums on Napa or Mile Markers on amazon
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57 minutes ago, MTGunner said:
Will Mile Marker 435 hubs fit my 2000 Pathfinder?
from my research from last night yes they will the chart on their site says it firs the 90-01 pathfinders. dont quote me on that but thats what i saw last night looking around
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54 minutes ago, Mr_Reverse said:
Yep. With my old truck, if there is snow on the ground, I will usually lock the hubs before leaving the driveway and just shift the transfer case into 4WD when needed. Unless there is damage in the drivetrain, you won't have any issues.
So far I see no down side other then having to get out and engage them
p0325 no SES light
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted
ok cool good to know. it drives perfectly fine and has 0 sign of misfire so by the sounds of it i should be fine. plus im not really in the mood to fix a stupid sensor since i just finished a top end rebuild on a ford 6.0 and now got a no start so working on cars and trucks is out of my mind at this time