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AlabamaDan

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Everything posted by AlabamaDan

  1. My 1973 Ford and 1980 Chevy pickup had a full gauge clusters. It just as drivers have become less mechanically inclined these became less popular. It could be that Japanese cars never had them. I found this thread where someone talked about a pillar pods, but I don't think anything ever happened.
  2. I've seen that and I'm planning on getting a voltmeter, I just need to find out where to put it.
  3. Y'all ever think about how poor the gauge cluster on a QX4 is? I have a fuel gauge, water temp gauge, tach, and speedo. An oil pressure gauge would be great. A voltmeter. Anyone installed any? Where'd ya put them and how'd you hook them up?
  4. My center console doesn't have a 12v socket there. Did you install that? If so, what did you tap into for the power?
  5. I can't open the pic, but could you get some QX4 flares from a JY?
  6. A 50 may be wider than the truck. Mine is a 42”. It’s about 39” from center to center in the OE rails. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Ham is probably the way I'll go in the long run, but as I don't have experience/licenses for that I'll start with a CB. It's cheaper too. I just got a deal on this setup. It's a start.
  8. I was using one of those little wooden two step ladders, standing on the very top. It would wobble as I rubbed and finally slipped out from under me at one point. Nothing to grab as I fell backwards into bushes and driveway. Things we do for cars. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F273408571391 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. I found it on eBay. My research brought me to the conclusion that a lot of the same ones for the $50-$100 range are all Autofeel. Lots of different sellers and ads, but that same manufacturer. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. I did the roof last because I had being on the little ladder. I fell once and almost killed myself!
  12. I don't have any hood glare at all. I thought about the amber for campgrounds as well so as not to blind people as much. I also thought it would match the OE fogs. Not sure what you mean by linking again?
  13. The light bar also has a series of flashing lights which this short video shows me cycling through.
  14. I did several things today. I finished my light bar: and I hardwired a battery tender pigtail to the battery:
  15. Not sure if they're the same, but while I agree they look cool the consensus around here will be that they're more of a damage multiplier than a guard. As long as you don't plan to hit anything...
  16. Test drive. OE headlights Just the amber lights, headlights off Just the white light, headlights off Whitelights and headlights I had the lights adjusted much higher earlier and it worked well for the white lights. They can really throw the light further down the street/trail. But if I wanted to use the amber lights I needed to aim it lower.
  17. Note that the screws that came with the light bar for the mounting are an allen head with a little peg in the middle. So, I saved the special wrench, along with the other two that came with it, in a small zip lock with the instructions. I'll keep this in the glove box.
  18. It was nice to finally have it hooked up. White light: Amber light (that will match the lower fogs Back view The switch is a wireless fob. I used one of the black twisty ties and mounted it to the visor. I originally had it on the passenger visor, but moved it to the drivers visor.
  19. As I mentioned earlier in the thread, the light bar came with a wire from the bar that was too short. I couldn't find a 3-wire covered wire, but I did find a 4-wire with matching wires and one extra green wire. I ran it down the weather stripping along the windshield. I could use a little advice getting it seated back in tight. The wire came out right in the engine compartment. I just cut the green wire off and didn't use it. Cost for the wire was about $4. I had to buy some male spade connectors to connect it, another few bucks there. I soldered the new wires to the harness, added some electrical tape and a heat shrink. Plugged right in. Then I ran picked back up on the controller harness that came with the light bar. I ran it along the firewall using the brake lines (I think that's what they are) to the other side of the engine bay. I couldn't really find a place to mount it on the firewall. There were a few threaded holes on the firewall, but a screw that fit them wouldn't go through the holes in the controller. So, what's a good ol' boy from the south to do? I zip tied it to something! It's really attached well and if I need to get to whatever that is underneath it, I'll just cut the zip ties. I now realize I need a power distribution block, but in the meantime I went ahead straight to the battery. I added an extra nut rather than compromise the stability of the connection to the battery. Works well. For the hot wire, I've been going to this fuse box behind the battery. This is a fused wire.
  20. Worked on extending the wiring a little tonight. I'll finish the install this week and post up more pics and how to.
  21. I've seen that little icon on some models, I think my 94 Q45 had them, but not on any vehicles I have now. However, I do know my Q70 has them without the icon. I was pleasantly surprised to learn it had them too.
  22. Awesome info, Y'all almost have me talked into it. I've been reading the posts about the Land Rover springs. Seems like a good idea to go for those all the way around for a 2" lift. AND, with a 2" lift I shouldn't have to do anything other than the springs.
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