Trialsin26

My SES light went off today, and I hope it stays that way. I think it might have had something to do with me almost being out of gas because after I filled the tank it went off the next day. $@#% computers they are just too sensitive. Well for those of you who might care here is what I found on the P0420 and P0430 trouble codes (Cataylst Failure Fault Bank 1or 2). First of all if it is a low mileage PF (under 100,000miles) it is probably not you catalytic converter. It is more then likely going to be your O2 sensor or a computer fault and has to be reprogrammed (which I have read might cost anywhere from free to 2 hours labor about $120.00…..it is in the TSB). If you have a PF and your ECM P/N is anywhere from23710-4w000 to 4w061 it might have to be reprogrammed if the code appears. Well there you go and now you know, and “knowing is half the battle”. :gossip:

My PF has stock black/smoke tint in the back. If you have mirror tint I would stay with mirror if you have black/smoke go with that. I got a price awhile back from this guy who does a very good job and he said if I got the 7 back windows done at 30% black (it would make it about 10% or 5% then), the front two at 20%, and my sunroof it would be about $235.00. I plan to do this summer because I can't stand another southern heat wave without tint. Just my 2 cents.

Service Engine Soon light came on again. 3d time in 10,000 miles. I know what the code means P0430 but has anyone else had it and what did you do? Thanks :oops:

I second that. What is the stock back spacing, lug nut spacing, for a 2001 and up PF. I would like to get a set of Rock Crawlers Black for my PF when it’s time to get a new set of tires. I would something slightly wider then stock and that doesn’t rub. I have a 1 inch OME lift. Thanks..

Flyer, Here are the answers to some of your questions, and if anyone would like to add please do. As for ordering the parts, I know 4 Wheel Parts can get them or Rocky Road Outfitters at http://www.rocky-road.com/Pathfinder.html is a good source. I got my springs from Rocky Road and my shock from 4 Wheel Parts. Don’t be surprised if it takes awhile. Rocky Road took almost a month and 4 Wheel Parts took almost 2 months. I would go with Rocky Road. Some Tips: Be sure to get a set of good jack stands. I purchased a pair of 6 ton stands and felt very secure with them. Also purchase a good jack. I used a 3.5 ton jack and it worked great. A suggestion to make it a little easier would be to have a second jack handy. This makes it possible to remove the springs without using spring compressors and will save you a lot of time. Here is what you do. Once the car is up on jack stands and everything is removed, with the main jack under the center of the rear end lower it about 6 inches. Once you get worried about the brake line, then it’s a good time to stop lowering it. With your second jack (you could use the one that came with the PF) place it under the left or right side (which ever you want to do first) and jack that side up until you can pull the spring out on the other side. This will save you a lot of time, because messing with spring compressors can be a B. :furious: Couple more tips. I would purchase a Haynes manual and follow the section on replacing springs step by step. Some people may disagree but I found it a lot easier. Second, make sure you turn the springs the correct way. And finally make sure you tighten everything to spec. Don't forget the beer, beer helps -alcohol- Time: The rear springs and shocks took me about five hours. 1.5 hours was wasted with the spring compressors, and I also repainted the spring perches and had to wait for them to dry. Front Springs: I don’t know yet. I haven’t done them. They are next on my list. I will say this, I have replaced springs on my old Honda and Ford Escort and I hope that it will be a lot easier on my PF. Would anyone else like to add a page to my book?

The pro comps do not fit very well, at least not the ones I got at first. Plus they made a popping noise. The OME are good bit more $$$$ but worth it. They are gas, have poly bushing and fit like stock. Plus they have a 2 years warranty. There are not much options out there for a 96 and up PF, so I would spend the extra $$$$ and get a good product. I think you can get front and rear OME springs plus rear shock for around $400.00. If you do it yourself you will save a lot of money, and after what I went through I plan to do as much myself as I can.

I just finished installing my OME shocks in the rear and reinstalling my OME springs (long story). Nothing like doing a job, and then realizing half way that you could have done it easier and faster. Well doesn’t matter, I got it done. Anyway as far as the ride goes with OME shock and springs in the rear, it’s excellent. The OME shocks really smooth things out. It feels kind of like riding on air. I haven’t done the front yet (saving up the money) but I’m pretty sure I will be just as satisfied. Click my path hist in my signature for some pics.,.

01PATHY, luck for me and it was just the grommet. I went to Nissan and it was just a $1.35 for the part.

Same here 88. I have a 2001 like nick with 43,000 miles on it. I don't have any problem wth it burning oil. I'm down here in the south and use 10w 30 GTX with no problem.

Stupid question here. Are you checking right after you driver the PF? If so it will show a quart low. I apologize, this was not a stab at you intelligence.

Good One Waarr, It sounds like a bad relay switch to me. It will probably burn its self out and you will have to replace it. I think they are under $5.00, but being a Nissan it will probably be more like$50.00. Anyone else got an idea?

nick, thanks for the help. I replaced both bulbs today but unfortunately I must have yanked to hard because I broke one of the plastic snap/plugs. It still pops in a hold tight but I think I’ll see if Nissan has a replacement part next time I go in. sssh

It seems like it should be very easy but it’s giving me a lot of trouble. I’m trying to replace the blinker/side marker bulb on my 2001 PF. I opened the hood and unscrewed the screw holding the blinker to the PF. I then pulled it in every direction for 30 min and could not get it loose. I didn’t want to break something so I stopped. Is there some kind of trick to getting the blinker loose from the car so I can replace the bulb? Thanks :confused:

Should be no problem to fix but I would also buy a Haynes manual to help you along. The hardest part will probably be trying to get that sensor out. The rest involves putting the new sensor back in the bank and pluging it back into the system. Also you might want to rest the code.

I don't know about the spoiler but my PF does the samething on windy days. Maybe the soft suspension? I guess I'll find out if I ever install my new shocks.

Check your belt or the fluid.

good job meiinc !!!

I ended up using a silicon spray on my sunroof after cleaning the rails and it seems to work pretty well. I tried to lube that driver’s side window but could not find a good point without taking the door panel off. It's pretty cold now and I'm not rolling with my windows down so I thing I'll wait to my next oil change to explore it.

meiinc, I can at least tell you that it does not fall under you 6/60 power train coverage. Since I have had my 2001 PF purchased new I have had to replay the O2 sensor Bank 2 -Sensor 2 and the valve timing sensor (which is code p1140 and p1145 same as you). Most of these sensors are part of your emissions control and can be replaced pretty easy if you can find them. What I suggest is buy a Haynes manual, the parts, do it you self, and have AutoZone or advance rest your computer. This will save you $60 to $120 in labor charges. Just my 2 cents???

deej, nice!!! thanks for the pic. Rocksliders are on my list.

My SES Light did that several times when my O2 sensor went bad. It would come on, then turn it’s self off after a couple off days, or I would turn it of with my friend’s lap top and the next morning it would come back on. More then likely it will come back on in a couple of days, but if not I agree don’t replace it.

Here is a 2001 with factory flector

I would replace the 02 sensor. I had the same thing happen on my 2001 but luckily under warranty. Correct me if I wrong but Bank 2 sensor 2 should be right under the driver side and pretty easy to replace if you can get it loose. I have heard from the dealer that these things just go bad, which sucks because they can run from $60.00 to $100.00. I would suggest replacing it and going back to AutoZone or advance and have them rest your computer. Any other opinions?

No go on my 2001 se with key or key pad. Would have been nice. If anyone knows how to program it on a 2001 let me know, if it is an option?