onespiritbrain

Hey dude, so you had to beef up the springs to get rid of the camber issue? I was thinking about grabbing some camber bolts to fix my issue but I'd MUCH rather keep the original geometry if possible. So the hd springs completely resolved your camber issue after getting larger tires? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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I have the same issue... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Can you determine which bearing might be making noise? Take a long screw driver or a long extension and use it to listen to the front of the compressor and then the rear. If it's the front bearing then I think, even if it is said to be unserviceable, you can replace the bearing. Same may be true for the rear.. and also the clutch bearings. Unless it is welded together then you can get in there. 9 times out of 10 an extremely common bearing is selected to go in just about every application to keep part costs at a minimum. Just dig in there, pull the bearings out and take them to your local bearing shop. If there are gaskets that get damaged and you cannot source them then use RTV silicone. It would be worth a try at least.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mine raised slightly above normal operating temp last summer when I was in 4LO with the A/C on full blast on a 95degF day and in tall grass. Also it should be noted that my thermostat was stuck open and it may not have been full open.. My 01 Frontier would overheat if the A/C was running while in drive thru lines on a summer day. I think fan clutch and all is juuuuuuust enough to keep the temp at normal and any little issue or any part of the cooling system that is starting to fail sends it over the edge. I would go ahead and replace the thermostat and flush the coolant while your in there. Also, while the car is off and cool, like in the morning, spin the fan with your hand.. it should spin fairly easily but have some resistance. If it has very little resistance then then your fan clutch might be on the way to failing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So sorry.. maybe everything will be alright! I am interested to know about the cause of the belt break. How tight was the belt when you replaced it 70k miles ago? Before I ruined my old engine I did the tb and I believe I over tightened the belt.. it whined with the engine RPM. I didn't make it to premature failure of the tb because, like I said, I killed the engine before it had a chance to break. Anyway, I am watching this thread to see your results. And even if you have some bent valves, maybe you could bring her back to life! I am going to pray for you. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you My lean code is still there after a new engine. So I've either got a faulty o2 sensor or maybe my MAF is loosing it.. I wonder if it wouldn't be easier just to go to a pullapart for the replacement MAF instead of using the Maxima MAF...? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Do you know which transfer case you have? What year is yours? The newer tcase that has the AWDish "auto" mode doesn't learn but maybe was slow to start working properly. I think it works by detecting slip through the output shafts on the tcase by oil pressure. Maybe the accumulators were slow to fill or something.. not sure why the characteristics of the 4wd would change the longer you drove. I think there are clutch packs in there on the newer "auto" mode tcases and stuff too.. also I think there are pressure sensors for the "auto" mode.. Has your 4wd been inactive for a long time? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I am going to do it. Probably sometime in June or July.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm not at home right now but I'm pretty sure the socket needed it a 22mm. The thread size and pitch I do not know.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

She is purring like a kitten!!! There was a loud knock when I first cranked it but after an intense prayer and a quick drive it went away. I adjusted the timing by ear. It's pretty clear if it's not in the right spot.. is this sufficient?? So the engine makes a whirling noise. I've looked up worn engine bearings and I don't see whirling noises at all.. what else might this be?!? 1k thru 5k rpm sounds AWESOME! There were a bit of chirping noises as well but I redlined the engine and now that sound has disappeared.. I'm scared that I should've replaced the main bearings and rod bearing while I had the engine out... Worst case scenario; how hard would rod/main bearing overhaul be without pulling the engine? Also, I did the timing belt. Last time I did the tb there was a whirling noise that was intertwined with a midrange tone that increased frequency with engine rpm. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Can you not use a 12 point wrench to remove the studs? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This differential!!! [emoji35][emoji35][emoji35] You need a tiny little jack with x,y adjustment!!!! I got it done but I am certainly not going to pass up on ranting about how terrible it was! Probably a breeze with a lift... Word Trainbrain Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The transmission in my wife's MDX died last night... I had to get the LeSabre up to snuff or we'd be stranded... troubles come together it seems. Some might say, "when it rains, it pours".. I thought I had the issue figured out with the 3rd and 4th oil pressure sensors. Guess not! Never was an issue with the pressure sensors anyway it seems.. the 5speed A/Ts in 01-05 V6 Hondas are junk. The 4speeds weren't much better either.. The thing could've at least waited until I was finished with mine.. RANT! Anyways! I just finished with the bell housing bolts, flex plate, and starter. My dumb butt forgot the sheet metal guard that goes between the trans and engine.. I put the bottom section on but I'm not pulling the engine back out for that thing. I'll probably RTV what I can get to.. I am excited to hear this thing running again! I am kicking around the idea of buying a vacuum pump from Harbor Freight to flush and recharge my A/C instead of paying someone to do it.. I think it'll be about the same cost. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[emoji51] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

One day I will just run out and buy a new Wrangler too! Trail rig the Nissan! Lock up the diffs and you'll go anywhere the wrangler will go. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you. I will absolutely be skipping the water/mud...! What I really want to do going forward is equip the front end and undercarriage to be able to plow thru brush and small vegetation. So when I come up on a mud hole I can blaze a bypass! It is almost time!!! I don't have a batt. charger so I will have to take mine to the local auto parts store. I also have to pick up a new drive belt since I had to ruin mine to torque the hb bolt. On a side note: If anyone has a 2001-2017 Honda with transmission issues, I highly suggest replacing the transmission oil pressure sensors. Did wonders for mine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think what Towndawg said to me is true.. So get everything ready minus the welding. Then use your best judgement and lightly tack the piece together. Hold your strut up there with the bracket and see if it's good or not. Then if it's bad just cut the tacks and reposition until you get it as close as possible. I don't know if you will be able to get it perfect, maybe so, but I'd plan on getting some camber bolts. Or just plan on an alignment when your done. Unless it's waaaaaaay off you'll be fine driving to the shop to get an alignment. However, I've read others reports of getting it just right and not needing an alignment. Man, I sure would be grateful if you would post what you do to get it whenever you do get it.. maybe you can be the first to put that info up and get it stickied! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Exhaust heat shielding. Could be something else, but many have been tricked by the sounds of the r50 exhaust rattles. I think valve train noise sticks around thru the rpm range. Harmonic vibration is more likely and the first thing to vibrate is going to be the exhaust heat shielding. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well... that means I am going to have to rent a timing light. Right? There is no way to time at 15 degrees without the light? And when I get the light it is basically loosing that single bolt that holds the dizzy and tweaking it slightly until the timing cover hand points to the correct mark on the hb? I will read the FSM on this for sure but that's the gist of it right? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay so I have no way of knowing where the dizzy was in relation to the engines timing(compression stroke, exhaust) since there was no dizzy on this new engine. Here's what I did. Someone who knows please correct me if I am wrong, please. 1. I removed the #1 spark plug. 2. I rotated the engine with the hb bolt until I saw the cylinder come to a complete stop and took note of which mark on the harmonic balancer tdc actually is. It's the first white mark. The first mark is yellow, so it's the second mark but the first white mark. 3. I placed my finger over the #1 spark plug hole and rotated the engine until pressure began to build. 4. While in the compression stroke I continued to rotate the engine until the timing hand on the timing cover pointed to the first white mark(second mark, first being yellow) on the hb. 5. I removed the dizzy and turned it until the rotor points to the #1 spark plug and installed the dizzy. Please alert me if this is incorrect. I heard a tale of the pathfinder being timed to different than 0 degrees...? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think you should keep it for trail riding and get you a new dd. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Stand still today.. last night I got the power steering pump, water pump, cam seals, front and rear seal, cam sprockets, oil pump, and oil pan finished. Do not forget to reattach the oil pickup flange to the oil pump... you'll have to rip the oil pan back off and it's not fun. The forsaken gaskets Nissan used for the oil pump and rear main seal housing are ridiculously hard to remove. It took me hours scraping at just the right angle to get them off and the rear main seal housing gasket was just terrible since the engine was mounted on the stand.. can't even imagine trying to do this with the engine in the vehicle. So my old engine is so insanely dirty that I really can't use anything on it... the timing covers on the new engine are rusty along with the valve covers so I got some rust stop black paint and I am hoping for the best. Every step of this process has involved deep cleaning. It is taking forever but I am glad I'm cleaning everything. I will say that the internals of the engine, that I can see, make me think that the previous owner(s) took care of it. If you all remember the pipe cleaners stuffed in the hoses and pipe between the valve covers when I was changing my timing belt.. I feel safe saying that my previous engine's owner(s) did not take care of it. I had some serious cold start lifter noise also.. and long idle smoking. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Does it just dim down or does it flicker and dim intermittently? What brand light bar is this that you have? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Do your headlights follow suit? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk