onespiritbrain

So I am wondering now whether these spikes are an electrical anomaly or the result of steam pockets or even exhaust gasses heating the temp sensor briefly... I already ordered a bunch of suspension parts from Rockauto and had to cancel all of it with this revived head gasket scare... I really want to get back to feeling confident about my vehicle.. I’ve always had to worry about my vehicles overheating.. [emoji17] My plan is to replace the fan clutch, fan blades, and entire shroud. I plan to hit pullapart this weekend. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Dude good forum detective work Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

VM 2.8L or OM 617.95x !! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I was reading about overheating issues with a 20degF difference and also a brand new radiator having a 35degF difference. It was an R50 too.. and I also read many other complaints about overheating issues that persisted even after head gasket jobs..!!! I had this exact issue with my frontier years ago. It would only happen in fast food drive thru lines/ heavy traffic, during the summer, and with the AC on.. but it would happen ever single time in those conditions. With this JR50, before the engine replacement it did overheat just a little one time. I was in tall grass on a 95degF day with the AC on and I witnessed the temp rise to 3/4 of the gauge. I cut the AC, rolled the windows down, and revved the engine to 3k RPM and the temp shot back down. Now.... I should also mention.... I am missing the lower section of my radiator shroud. It went away during the engine replacement. I was furious about how hard it fought me while I was trying to get it off so I destroyed it... My radiator cap looks like it could be replaced.. I mean the rubber is still somewhat pliable and the spring compresses by hand but it looks very used. There are zero markings on it too so I assume it is a cheapo one. I also saw this random spike in temperature today and I started thinking that this whole thing could be a mirage. Haha Sheesh that was long winded! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So I overheated on the trail yesterday.. I say overheated, I was looking at my bluedriver obd2 thing the moment it was happening and I cut the engine right at 232degF. I was fighting disappearing coolant from the reservoir but that issue stopped after the air bleeding from earlier in this thread. In the past couple weeks I have had to add some coolant to the reservoir, about half a gallon altogether. After I let the vehicle cool down I drove as quickly off the trail as possible since I was barely moving along when the overheating occurred. I stayed around 208degF on the way out and when I got to the road it dropped to around 200degF. I turned on the heat full blast and the temperature shot down to 185degF, which is where it usually runs while driving(185-195degF). Now today I decided that the radiator might be the cause so I went to my job and grabbed the IR temp gun. I also grabbed some hydrochloric acid and a sump pump we use to pump the HCL thru our chiller evaps and condensers. This is what the temp gun found: ...Before acid boil... w/ heater: ΔT of 7 In.....165 Out..158 w/o heater: ΔT of 2 In.....179 Out..177 ...After acid boil... w/ heater: ΔT of 13 In.....167 Out..154 w/o heater: ΔT of 17 In.....181 Out..164 I did see about 200degF sitting at idle for 10 or so minutes. It looks like maybe its not going to rise past that. I just don’t know exactly where it used to run in all these different situations. Here is what it looked like descaling: https://youtu.be/2cxaqe2abCE Also... it looks like my MAF is on the way out.. I do want to mention that I do not have a steady stream of bubbles in the top of the radiator. I checked it out really close today and if I do have bubbles in there then it must be a reaaaally slow seep. I did the spill free funnel air bleeding method and the only bubbles were when I squeezed the top radiator hose. Anyway, I am desperately hoping this is not a lurking head gasket.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m sorry, by center diff I was talking about the transfer case. See if the vibration is there with the 6.2mm tires on front and back. .........front......... 9.2—open—6.2 ............|............ ............|............ .....[TC lock]..... ............|............ ............|............ 6.2—open—9.2 .........rear.......... That should work without issue. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

A locked center diff and different sized tires will definitely cause a problem. I don’t know when it becomes an issue though and if you’d see vibration from a variance in tread wear. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My family and I all sat on top of mine last 4th of July and the exact same thing happened except maybe not as bad. Mine will open just fine but will not close completely unless I assist it. I’m thinking we’ll have to take the ceiling down to see what is going on.. Its probably something similar to the hood and like Bax said we’ll have to force it all back into position. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you’re going to go with Toyota then you should look at the early 90’s Land Cruiser that still has a cast iron cylinder head. I saw a 1994 JDM Toyota Land Cruiser Prado with a 3.0L turbo diesel and 165k miles... I wanted it.. it had a third row and everything. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I wonder if it’s vibrating hard enough to catch it with the GoPro again.. Here’s the movement on mine. I’d definitely say it’s at least 1mm or maybe slightly more overall from side to side. https://youtu.be/E2V4E1UP3t4 Edit: The angle makes it look like it’s not lateral movement but it is. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Have you tried rotating your tires just to rule them out? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is from google: Testing Remove the wire from the contact stud on the sending unit and ground it to the chassis. If the gauge now reads Empty, the trouble is either poor grounding of the sender or a bad sending unit. If the gauge still reads Full, touch a grounded test wire to the sending unit terminal on the back of the dash gauge. This terminal is often marked with a red tag. If the gauge now reads Empty, the wire from the dash to the sending unit is broken or the connection to the dash gauge is corroded. With the sender removed from the tank, connect an ohm meter to the sending unit (one lead to the contact stud and one to the housing) and check the resistance of the sender as you manually raise and lower the arm. This reading should be 0 to 30 ohms (or very close). If none of these tests finds the problem, the dash gauge is the problem and should be rebuilt or replaced Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You mean like the height of the bottom of the air box from the ground? Or the height of the opening to that piece of junk that’s in the bumper? To update this thread: I still haven’t installed a snorkel.. but I may have new incentive since the thing drank another gulp of water..... this time it looks like it was probably I giant puddle during some of this crazy rain we’ve had here not long ago.. I opened up the air box to have a look see at the filter and first thing I saw was RUST all over the place and when I lifted the filter I saw half an inch of muck....! I think the thing would be better without that strange growth in the bumper. I mean the thing sticks down there where all the water is so it can slurp it up as a straw might..!!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mine is leaking right there also. The piece that your oil filter screws into actually bolts onto the block and has o rings itself. I either installed something incorrectly or that piece is warped from being smashed at the junkyard.. I suggest spraying a strong degreaser and blasting that area with a pressure washer. Then you can see better what exactly is leaking. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah.. what do you do there..?? Well from what I just read, it’s going to be a huge pain in the butt to set the cam.. I would definitely advise getting a cam gear from a junkyard. Does the gear have a keyway? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well I put a turd orange one back on but I plan on getting a Supertech Walmart brand filter next time. I watched a review on them and while their not super premium, they are better than most of the mid range ones, and for $3! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Haha well I had decided to buy a decent oil filter for that oil change so I bought the mid range Fram. It was incredibly hard to remove, so much so that I had to use a pipe wrench and it got ripped to shreds in the process. I didn’t think to look at it because I was honestly pretty nervous and upset. I plan to hit my engine hard with ATF and Seafoam before each oil change from here on out until I feel better about all of it. Also I was just thinking about telling you guys this morning, it is still quiet on startup both in the cold of the morning and in the warmth at the end of the work day. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So I want to share what happened.. On this past Saturday I changed my oil from full synthetic valvoline 5w30 to Castrol EDGE 10w30 and all was well until Tuesday morning when the temp dropped to around 40degF. When I started my engine I immediately heard unusually loud valve train noise and I just figured it would go away after the engine warmed up a bit.. that is not what happened at all! On the drive to work I dropped my daughter off at school and left my engine running for the walk over to the school.. its about 75yrds and the when i was walking back I could hear the valve train slapping and smashing from more than 50yrds away!!! I didnt want to drive any further but I did anyway. While I was at work I started the engine a couple times and it was making some serious noise. I got my wife to bring me oil and a filter along with a thing of Seafoam. I had 3/4 of a quart of ATF in the trunk and I filled the bottle the rest of the way with the Seafoam, shook it up, and added it to the crankcase. I then ran the engine until warm and on the way to getting warmed up the noise went away little by little until it was almost completely gone. It would still rare up a little @ about 3k RPM however.. So I did an oil change and put full synthetic valvoline 5w30 in it and now today the valve train noise is completely gone. Even at startup this morning there was barely any noise and today after 8 hours at work there was maybe a fraction of a second before it was smooth. What in the world happened..............? I use to run 20w50 in my 3.3L Frontier before I knew better and I never ever had any crazy valve train noise like that. I do worry about all this synthetic oil cleaning up the deposits that were clearly visible when I installed this engine. Hopefully this is just a process of the engine getting back to homeostasis! Michael Greene

You wrap the belt all the way around the sprocket and where the belt meets itself you pinch it as tight as you can with some visegrips. Here’s a pic from when I did mine: For removing the seals I got a couple hook end oring picks to puncture the soft inner sealing area and pulled against the hard outer part. I also used a 50/50 ATF/Kerosine spray on everything as a penetrant. I might even suggest spraying your penetrant in there and knocking the seal further in there to get it loosened up! There is a good bit of outer seating for the seal.. I actually scarred the outer seat on the driver cam so I set the seal half an inch further in to prevent a leak in that area. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

How are you guys going about getting that front diff on the ground? I used a floor jack and straps to secure the diff to the jack but it was a nightmare. Is there a better way?? Edit: google search returns tips on using a transmission jack with tilting axes..! Still though, is that how you guys do it? Or do you all make a standard floor jack work well somehow? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I marked mine with an oil paint marker and zapped it off with the impact and I held it in place with the old belt and vice grips. Worked pretty good! The bolts on my cam sprockets took more torque than I could hold with the belt/visegrip combo and a breaker bar. The impact punched it off with ease though.. What I’m trying to say is, I was more worried about damaging valves with the breaker bar than the impact. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Are you using a rattle gun? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That’s wild! Very good detective work! I am thoroughly impressed. This is great stuff. Great info for the community man, good job! I actually had no idea that piece was secured by bushings and I was all up in there for my engine. I stripped the scrap out of one of the bolts that secures the diff to that piece. It’s nice knowing that whole piece can be replaced!!! Thank you! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

+1 for thermostat but I’d definitely check that flow out like others have said. My frontier did this but I never found out what the culprit was before I crashed it to oblivion. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I should mention.. I did not have the issue spoken about here until I changed my brake shoes in the rear. I believe my double pumping for a more stiff brake pedal is because the rear shoes are not adjusted well at all and the wheel cylinders are fully extending during the fist brake pump and after braking the springs push it all back together, then the cycle repeats. I’ve pulled the ebrake hundreds of times to get the shoes to auto adjust but that function isn’t working for whatever reason. I need to get under there and make the adjustment by hand since there is a hole next to the bleeder where a flat head screw driver or brake tool can be used to make the adjustment. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk