onespiritbrain

You'll probably have a better chance to see those pics by messaging the OP Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I would just get some new fuel rated hose of the same size or cut both ends and get a double male brass hose barb that will fit and reconnect it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hmm interesting Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Welcome brah Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

All the associated valves(that I know of) are operating correctly. Honestly this is dangerous.. the location at the rear near metal that I could easily bash against a rock causing a spark and poof a fire is started.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Alright, so if gas has made its way into the canister itself then it is no good? Gas was trickling out of the vent at half a tank. I pulled the vent solenoid and it is operating correctly. I'm about to pull the surge solenoid to test it right now Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well today I smelled a scent I thought was stopleak from my AC refrigerant. I've been smelling it for a while, since I swapped engines. Smells like hair spray and today I recognized it as a scent I smell all the time at work in denatured ethanol. I went around my car trying to find the source and found a puddle forming at the rear driver side of the vehicle, right under the corner of the bumper. I pulled my vehicle far away and exposed the small puddle to an open flame and sure enough it is gasoline. I think water may also come from this hole?? It smells like mildew also.. or maybe it's just me. Either way there is definitely gas coming from the tube, enough to form a puddle... Here are pictures: What system is this tube and box a part of? I really appreciate any help. It should also be noted that I have 4 active check engine codes: P0325 Knock Sensor Malfunction P0161 Ripped all the wires out of the o2 sensor P0420 Been fighting this one since before the engine swap P1447 EVAP system?!? Are you kidding me? I just looked at the detail of the code this very moment.. Wasn't someone else literally just dealing with this very same issue??? I will track it down as soon as I post this thread but that's neat we're dealing with the same issue so close together. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah man, that's awesome that your engine made it! Near death experience for sure! CRC Electronics Cleaner https://www.amazon.com/CRC-5103-Quick-Electronic-Cleaner/dp/B000BXOGNI I've seen it at Walmart for $5 a can also. It's the same stuff as MAF Sensor Cleaner. The MAF stuff might be more gentle on buna rubber..? The CRC Electronics Cleaner mentioned above will elongate buna rubber seals. Nowhere near as bad as brake cleaner products but it still does a little bit. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I am glad your engine survived! I'm uh, giving up the 5th amendment here, but yeah.. while I was 3 foot deep in muddy water my engine would not run because of my wet MAF. I had to spit on it to get the clumps of mud off and then blow on it till it was dry... only then I was able to adequately destroy the engine by running it with a gallon of muddy water inside. In my case the air filter blew a giant hole in the center after it got wet and clogged. I had major amounts of water in the crank case and that water boiled when I ran the engine which blew every single seal imaginable.. poor engine looked just pitiful leaking that much oil from everywhere.. horrible.. still hurts my heart what I did to my beloved pathfinder.. she's back to life now though! We have got to get snorkels... I want to figure out if there is a way to pull air from the fresh air cowl and if it will still be protected if water rushes over top of the hood right into the cowl. I mean I'm pretty sure that water wouldn't have started blowing out of my AC vents.. maybe there is more air flow involved though. I might start a thread about this when I get ready to move forward with it.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Those seals are easy to replace too. I bet it adds maybe 30min total, maybe less if your not OCD like me.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

+1 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I wonder if any of the bluetooth obd2 scanners will display oil pressure... I've heard a tale of transmission temperature and lots of other readouts. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You'd need to get it hot for a good while to blow the HGs. So it is still running hot after a new thermostat? I suspect air in the cooling system. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Research.com brah Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Buy a set of the cheapest(softest) Harbor Freight punches, not brass or anything but just cheapo steel punches. It's a dirty laborious job.. you'll need a special socket to tighten the bearing retainer nut. I think that's what it's called.. the machined nut that sets and preloads the bearing. I'm at work right now but in 8 hours or so when I get home, I'll take a picture of the one I have. I had to modify one I found at the local auto parts store.. Preloading the bearing is probably that hardest part. Specs say like 13 INCH pounds of torque, which is less than the weight of my torque wrench resting on its own weight... and I think 13in pounds is in a perfect condition when the threads on the spindle and retainer nut are perfectly clean and greased... someone here will likely have better advice on how to set it by "feel" but I did mine by setting the bearing at 70-80 foot pounds and then loosing the retainer all the way. Then spin the wheel by hand and tighten the retainer until the wheel starts to show a small bit of resistance but still spins easily. I tried the 13 inch pound thing and had to come right back home and tighten it down because it was too loose. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What kind of camera are you using Micah? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Our bodies are so fragile.. God bless his family and loved ones. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mine as well.. what I have been doing lately, if I'm already rolling, is to shift into 2nd until about 4k RPM and then back to D. This seems to give me the little extra power that all the other vehicles on the road seem to already have... and if I'm too far past the reach of 2nd then kicking off the OD does help. I feel like kicking OD off is better than punching the gas until you finally drop down a gear with every ounce of power the engine can make applied to the clutch packs... Although the OD is finicky on Nissans. My Frontier had trouble with lockup from 40-45mph, my last transmission that died was the same, and now this transmission I have now was acting the same also. It has since stopped but I am weary of making the lockup clutch to do anymore work than it already has to.. I feel your pain though.. I have made my peace with the lack of power the 3.3 makes but I do find myself in situations, especial when other people are trying to make it to work on time, when I push my 3.3 so that I'm not the inconsiderate slow guy all the time.. Edit: The 3.3 wouldn't be half as bad with a manual transmission... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you're talking about the cradle, the piece that spans between the two front wheels and has the steering rack on top of it, then you don't need to worry. I always jack mine up right there with no wood at all.. metal on metal. If you're talking about the crossmember that supports the transmission then I don't know... since it is supporting more of the vehicle than just the front end, it could have warped it.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm sorry man but it sounds like the engine may have suffered damage when the timing belt broke on the PO. You will need to do a compression test. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You probably don't have top dead center on the compression stroke. If your blowing fire out of the intake then your timing is set at 180deg and you will need to reset everything.. Search for "how to find TDC compression stroke" Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think that switch would signal a relay for the brake lights. I could definitely be wrong though.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think one is for the brake lights and the other is to disengage cruise control. I would figure out which one is for the tail lights and use that one. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk