onespiritbrain

Okay now your other thread has me thinking my issues are timing related. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hmmmmmmmmmmm... I wonder if my timing is off now. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Try tightening it first before you loosen. If you can get it to move at all, even the wrong direction, the movement will break it loose enough get it going in the right direction, sometimes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I was getting 300 and 302. Now I'm getting a 2096 or 420. Not sure which one it is.. I can feel it missing when in drive, stopped, and I let off the brake. Under the bit of power passing through the torque converter at idle I can clearly feel the misses. It's harder to tell when accelerating but there's a clear difference past 3000 rpm. It's like small hesitations and sometimes even slow acceleration pulses until 3000 rpm. It's not timing either.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mine does this also.. I am leaning toward a fuel injector. Idle to 3000rpm is a little bit jumpy and short of full power but 3000rpm and up is smooth and at full power.. When I first got the vehicle I got a cel which was a misfire cylinder #2. Im going to pull a part an injector soon. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sounds like a seeping head gasket to me.. Drive like you are a race car for 5 minutes then smell inside your coolant reservoir. Does it smell like exhaust? SHGs often herniate the fire ring which allows high pressure exhaust gasses into the coolant system but does not let low pressure coolant into combustion. As early as you may be, a hg sealer like blue devil might work. Maybe even permanently.. I would perform a leak down test and see if you get any pressure making its way to the coolant system. Then do a coolant pressure test and then see if you get a white cloud when you start the engine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So I decided to dip my emblems black today.. Here's how I did it. First I cleaned everything the best I could with denatured alcohol and a microfiber cloth. Second I taped everything off. Then I started spraying. The first coat needs to be light and will look spattered. After the first coat drys for 10min put the second coat on at the same thickness from another angle. Each coat will be from a different angle to get coverage everywhere. After you hit all your angles your last coat or coats should be on the thick side. I suggest you practice your thick coats on something before you start. After all your coats are on, let everything dry for about 30min. Then remove all your masking. Then peel the plastidip you don't want away, starting at the edges near your masking. I made a little video but it's garbage due to needing two hands for the peeling process.. it cuts a perfect line by itself! So you can lay it on too thick.. I laid it on too thick and it bridged the gap between one of the letters so when I tried to peel it didn't cut a line, instead it pulled part of the plastidip from the surface of the letter. That and the texture of the plastidip looks weird close up. I laid it on just right on the emblems, but I messed the letters up pretty bad. I'm thinking about removing the letters altogether.. Finished product Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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I should've welded the plate to the top of the flat bar.. the bottom would've been at the orange line and the top of the release, if I didn't rotate the gear housing, would've tucked nicely below the metal "bumper" at the green line... I may end up testing my skills with a glue bound cutting disk to slice the current welds and then move the plate up for rewelding.. I guess there was a reason I didn't paint the welds, I mean besides me being lazy. Or maybe there is a silver lining to my laziness. The philosophers will decide.. If I do I will post it up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Seriously. Also the LandCruiser 70.. I mean yeah we have more paved roads but they'd still sell them by the boat load! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Unless you have a funnel and all that stuff laying around it'll cost you about $100 to do it yourself. $100 to have someone with experience do it for you isn't a bad deal in my opinion. Make sure you ask him if he is going to do a full fluid swap. A simple drain and fill isn't worth $200, even with a filter change. And honestly, unless you have a serious issue going on with your transmission eating itself alive, that filter is going to be clean as a whistle. All you need is a full fluid swap. My transmission ate itself to pieces.. there were two inch long curls of metal, metal chips galore, and metal pins all in the pan after mine tanked but there was nothing at all in the filter. It was perfectly clean. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've only ever experienced the opposite. I swapped the oil with the cooling lines in my wife's Honda, and I used store brand equivalent trans oil too, and it instantly revived her torque converter. Information that says putting the correct new oil in a transmission is anecdotal. A power flush might be a different story with a tech who is clueless but those machines are adjustable and any tech worth his salt will know to ask when the last trans maintenance was performed in addition to taking a sample of the fluid before blasting deposits loose. The best way to do it is slowly anyway. The cooling line swap was an emergency deal for me. If your torque converter really is slipping like my wife's was then yours is an emergency also.. I'll detail both procedures: Cooling line swap. (2 people - 2 hours) You need the following: 1. Two 5 quart paint mixing buckets(clear) 2. 12 quarts of the correct trans oil 3. One 5 gallon bucket 4. Something to clamp the feeding cooling line shut or a plug to stick in it 5. Zip ties 6. Paper and a pen 7. Transmission fill funnel How to: *Pre step(too lazy to change all the numbers): Bring trans to operating temperature by driving around for a bit. 1. Take loose both trans cooling lines from the bottom of your radiator. 2. Aim each hose in to one of your clear 5qt buckets. You may need zip ties to hold the hoses in place. 3. Have someone start the vehicle. One of the hoses will begin pouring trans oil. As soon as you see which one that is, STOP THE ENGINE. 4. Take notice of where the 2 and 3 quarts marks are on the buckets. Helps to mark it with a sharpie. 5. Start the engine again and let the bucket fill to the 2 quart mark, then STOP THE ENGINE. It will probably continue pouring out a bit after and you should have about 3 quarts of trans fluid in the bucket. It's okay if you have less than 3qt or a little more. Be careful not to have 4 or more quarts of oil in the clear bucket with the engine running. 6. Write down exactly how much is in the clear bucket. 7. Plug or clamp the hose. 8. Dump the clear bucket in to the 5 gallon bucket. 9. Put the exact amount that you wrote down of new trans oil in to your second 5qt bucket(the one that didn't get any oil in it at the beginning) 10. Pour the new trans fluid you measured out in to the transmission with your transmission fill funnel. 11. Repeat steps 5 through 9 until your transmission oil changes from dark red/brown/black to brighter red or until you run out of trans oil. *If you buy a bunch of trans oil you can keep going until the oil coming from the cooling line looks exactly like new oil* 12. When finished hook your trans cooling lines back up and you are done. Drain and fill(1 person - 4 to 8 days) You will need: 1. 12 quarts of the correct trans oil 2. One 5 quart paint mixing bucket(clear) 3. Transmission fill funnel How to: 1. Drive around until trans is at operating temperature. 2. Drain 3 quarts of trans oil in to your clear bucket. 3. Fill trans back up with exact amount you drained. 4. Wait until the next day or two. 5. Repeat steps 1 through 4 until you are out of transmission oil. Both ways work but the slow way I think is better and safer. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mines does something similar on the interstate.. I'd say 20hz, metallic vibration. Mine is a bushing somewhere that's gone. I'd say about every half mile or so and in every curve there is a slight change in the texture of the cement and it causes harmonic vibrations in my suspension. There is one particular curve that causes the vibration to become loud and less uniform. This doesn't happen at all, never, on blacktop curves, even at highway speeds. It does however happen in some parking lots at very slow speeds if the texture of the cement is just the right roughness. It should be noted that the same problem area makes a single noticeable metallic clank if my trans isn't warm enough for lockup yet and I let off the gas at 60mph and up. I might also have wheel bearing issues.. Does your issue ever flare up in certain areas? Take notice of exactly where you are and your speed at the place where the vibration occurs and try to replicate the issue. That should tell you whether or not you are experiencing harmonic reverberations caused by the road. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I was going to mount it higher but after I get my hawse fairlead I won't have lost hardly any approach angle from the stock hang of the bumper. Of course I do scratch the bumper pretty hard about every time I go out... hmmm.. I'll have to be extra careful, probably will just plow ahead anyway haha. But If I had put it higher then there would've been a lot more stress on the bolts holding everything together during a pull. There really isn't much on the front with enough strength to mount a winch. If I had gone higher, straight pulls would probably be fine but I wouldn't be comfortable with anything off center. Also, I didn't go up in bolt size to mount the winch. M12 bolts would have been a different story but I kept the M10's and upgraded to grade 12.9 @ 250ftlbs. Really even with grade 12.9 M12 bolts I'm afraid a hard off center pull would cause trouble. Of course I am probably exaggerating the forces involved in my mind.. I am in desperate need of a lift. Once I have my lift installed, which will hopefully happen in June, I will look at bumper mounting options and relocating the winch to a higher position on the new bumper. I looked up the HF winch mount and it looks exactly like the one I bought of Amazon from Megabrands for $35. Strong points of contact for mounting anything heavy on the front are non existent. It looks like everything up there is designed to crush and absorb impact forces from a crash. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I forgot to put the can at the road this morning... luckily my winch was there to save me from loading week old ripped trash bags full of funk(I have a 1.5yr old) on my roof or worse in my trunk! I love this thing already! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So I finally have a winch on my vehicle! No more getting stuck and having to make that embarrassing phone call. So I started by removing the bumper and grill. Then I just propped the plate up where it made the most sense to me and offered the most bracing. The plate I bought was almost the exact right width to match up with the front pull points. I had to trim about .75" on each side to make way for the 5/8x2.5" flat bar. I tacked the flat bar in place and propped it up again to figure out how to bolt everything down. Placement looked good so I went ahead and welded everything. I used the front pull point brackets to place my center punch for drilling the bolt holes. I propped the plate and pressed everything tightly against the "frame". When I say frame I mean the black metal that spans the front between the two metal crush bumpers. While tightly pressed I used the front pull brackets to mark where on the flat bar to hold the bracket for center punching. Then I took everything to the bench for punching and drilling. Next I relocated the solenoid. Just mark everything carefully and it's easy. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170313/ffe481036f5d10f7be426a16783c256f.jpg Hard part is done! https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170313/1ad21710fd14e585bbcbba7332a0d126.jpg With everything buttoned back up https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170313/3525931b779e3ce763081ea28cf4ea38.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170313/482a5a1fbd538440242fec40ace824b5.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170313/bb1fbd8d14e163887154463bbf6e261a.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170313/74737cd4cd7314de9dee27328774dc21.jpg Now I don't have to turn around because there's a puddle in the road. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Dude... that looks awesome. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Prepping for stock bumper winch mount [emoji51] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Boom! worth it Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Make sure nothing is pressing against the throttle cable. I had mine incorrectly routed after my timing belt replacement and mine idled high, about 11-1200rpm. I'd grab a hold of the cable and gently wiggle it about. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What are your part numbers? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Good job dude Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oh crud, I wonder if I have this ICC you speak of.. I'm about to put a winch on the front of mine. I'll be keeping the stock bumper and cutting a place out of it for the winch but I hope I don't kill my cruise control.. it's the source of the vg33s only way to get decent gas mileage. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Get the sensor they say you need from the junk yard bro. Just insist they show you exactly what sensor they're talking about. Then when the tech puts his finger on it snap a pic. Then smile at them and head to the yard. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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