onespiritbrain

You could buy all the tools and parts you need for way less than $1400. I don’t know if that’s too much for a shop to quote or not, it’s probably not, but it’s too much for me to pay.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I am wondering if that very small bypass hose leak slowly allowed the system to draw more and more coolant out of the reservoir bottle until it emptied the bottle and filled up with air. Then I panicked and filled the reservoir and radiator back up without burping all that air out and that’s why I saw it take a 1/2 gallon of water in 100 miles. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I rented the block tester(prt# 27145) from autozone and ran the test for over 10min at 185degF and it was just as crystal blue at the end as it was at the beginning... at one point there was even bubbles coming up through the tester from the coolant system without my assistance from the suction bulb; zero color change whatsoever.. *after 10mins* I did the foil test and I found that both new 5w30 and my engine oil bubble and sizzle right before burning up. I think I would need a hot plate that I could control the temperature on to tell if my engine oil bubbled any differently than the new oil. However, by eye it seemed like the new oil resisted burning up about twice as well as my engine oil. The new oil would “run away” from the flame and become quite thin before turning darker, bubbling, and burning up while my engine oil would quickly stick where it was, turn dark black, bubble, and burn up. I don’t think I am able to determine anything without better control over the test. It is quite strange.. I was so sure it was a head gasket. I must be a more subjective thinker than I realized, of course that would be natural for a subjective thinker haha.. Anyways, I have an endoscope on order from Amazon that’ll be here on the 17th. I plan to check the inside of my cylinders in all sorts of situations. It’ll also help me to look for external coolant leaks. Speaking of.. I did find and fix this yesterday after the leak down test: That is the small coolant bypass hose behind the engine and between the two heater core hoses! I can’t wait till this is over.. before I killed my previous engine I could start it and leave it running forever without worrying about it overheating.. every car I’ve ever owned I had to worry about it overheating, until this QX4. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That’s awesome I’m going to try the foil thing. Thanks dude Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Is it even possible for coolant to leak into the cylinder but combustion not leak into the coolant?? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well I just performed a leak down test which it passed.... bittersweet because I was honestly relieved by my previous confidence in a blown head gasket. I’m ready to get this behind me. This car is going to stay with me forever. I don’t care how big a pain any of it is, it’s staying. I bought it with the small inheritance my dad left me, and I also fixed the transmission and engine with that same money, so it’s like a piece of him here with me.. I want to get this disappearing coolant and the following overheating condition taken care of now. I am going to do the Taurus electric fan conversion but this missing coolant thing has got to stop first. I am wondering about the intake plenum now.. I looked inside the throttle body and it was just black and sooty. My oil level does not rise, however, it was previously using more oil than it does now and I’m wondering if the missing oil is being offset by the introduction of coolant. And also since the water intrusion is so slow maybe it is falling out of oil suspension, evaporating, and being burned by the PCV function. I do have snot on the oil cap.. I don’t know anymore.... I already sold my bow, which I also bought with my inheritance, so shame on me for not doing this test first... Here are the spark plugs in order of; 1, 3, 5, 6, 2, and 4. I accidentally skipped 4 and did 2 first. Also I cleaned the number 2 plug before I took the picture. It looked just like 4 except the threads were wet with what looked like oil.. Here is this leak down test that I made: I set the pressure on a high precision regulator here at work and measured the leak rate. More than anything I wanted to put 200psi on the cylinders and watch for bubbles at the filler neck on the radiator. No dice... I did find that cylinder number 2’s exhaust valve didn’t seat right with the gentle opening and closing of rotating the crank shaft.. I guess the next step is to pressurize the cooling system and look for external leaks... I guess it might be good to send an oil sample to Blackstone to see if they detect coolant in the oil. I guess I will also add a dye to the coolant and all that as well.. Any advice is much appreciated. I will try whatever y’all tell me. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sold Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thought I’d see if my NPORA family was interested in my bow that I’m selling. I’ve got it posted everywhere for $450 but I will go down to $400 here. The money is going to go towards a head gasket for my QX4.. ***PSE Drive LT ABB Strings Bow with HHA Optimizer Sight and QAD HDX Rest $450 PSE Drive LT Bow with ABB Strings $300 HHA Optimizer Lite Ultra $125 QAD Ultrarest HDX $60 Bee Stinger 8" $40 Scott Mongoose XT Release $40 I will consider separating items. Michael 770 330 2173 text or call*** https://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/spo/d/pse-drive-lt-abb-strings-bow/6640186088.html?lang=en&cc=us Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here man! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve decided against doing the bearings since I’d have to pull the engine.. I’m just going to tear into these head gaskets. I’ll have to get my other car back up to speed.. it’s infiltrated by spiders and wasps, needs a trans flush, and an AC service. Hopefully I’ll be able to order the parts this Friday. Wooh! I’m trying to get pumped about all of this haha.. I’ll keep y’all posted. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I am still loosing coolant and I think it’s either a BHG or a cracked head... *I lose about half a gallon per 100-150 miles and I have zero leaks and zero sweet smells.* I do have slow bubbling in the reservoir after short/long drives above 90degF ambient. With the radiator completely full and at idle the coolant temp slowly creeps up to 225degF+. I want to do the right thing and make the repair, after compression checks and everything of course, but I am discouraged because I also believe the bottom end needs new bearings, mains and rods.. By the time I get HGs on with milling and replace all the bearings I am going to be above the cost of another JY motor... I also don’t want to mess with having the crank turned so I’d be slapping standard bearings on and hoping for the best..... And so... I am slightly inclined to just pour a block/HG sealer in and hope for the best, try to get enough time until my wife finishes school and I can afford better options. Opinions on what you’d do in this situation are welcomed.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Bell Knob Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Does Isramex stand for Israeli and Mexican? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well you need all that stuff to put a proper charge in the system so you can see what’s going on with it. I guess you could just get the can tap and a couple cans of refrigerant and charge the system. That way you can see if the compressor will cycle or not. If the compressor does engage and you still don’t have cold air then you’re going to need the gauges for further diagnosis. The thing is though, if you don’t put in the correct amount of refrigerant, or if a lot of moisture has gotten in the system then you’re not going to be able to reliably test any of it. The cheapest option I think is going to be to let a shop evacuate the system and you can put two cans in and see what happens. Unless it is a nice shop they’re just going to vent the system to atmosphere though... I’m not going to tell you to just do that yourself but 9 out of 10 times they just open the system to atmosphere.. So get the system to zero pressure. Then with a can tap that will attach to your low side fitting and put exactly two full cans in. When you are putting the cans in try to run the AC. When the system detects enough pressure then the compressor will kick on and it’ll pull the refrigerant out of the cans a lot better. This is the type of can tap you’ll need: https://www.walmart.com/ip/EZ-Chill-Auto-Air-Conditioning-Refrigerant-134a/16888796?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&wl13=4616&adid=22222222228017563308&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=m&wl3=58368535008&wl4=pla-82766655888&wl5=9011022&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=local&wl12=16888796&wl13=4616&veh=sem Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It means your vehicle is running at 226degF+ instead of 185-205degF. It could be a faulty connection at the sender though.. either way it isn’t normal. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You will need from Harbor Freight: Manifold Gauges $60 Small Vacuum Pump $90 You will need from Auto Parts Store: R134a Can Tap $8 You will need from Walmart: R134a Refrigerant Cans (3-4each) $5 (You only need two cans but it takes forever once a can gets low... you’ll see what I mean..) It’ll be $160 but you’ll pay that to someone just to refill your system with refrigerant and check for leaks... The process isn’t hard either but you’ll have to go to a shop and let them recover any refrigerant left in the system. That’s step one; get the pressure in the AC system at zero. Then you’ll pull a vacuum for an hour and recharge the system. That’s it and you just put in exactly the amount listed on a sticker found in your engine bay. From that point on you’ll be checking to see if it works or not and if not then I’ll tell you how to check different parts of the system with the pressure readings on the gauges. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Glad you made the sale! I hope there is a forum like this one for your new vehicle. If you find one let me know. I haven’t looked for one yet for my Toyota so I’d be very interested to know. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I suspect the radiator. I just went thru this same issue over the last year and my issue ended up being a plugged radiator. I even flushed my radiator with acid and it remained plugged! You can grab a radiator for fairly cheap. I would go ahead and replace it so you can rule it out. I actually was about to change my head gaskets also... but one day while it was over heating I turned off the engine and placed my hand on the radiator and the middle of the radiator was completely cold while the left and right side were blazing hot! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That Toyota V8 is sooooooo nice, no more struggling to keep up with traffic! My wife has a GX470 which is the same thing as the V8 4Runner and it is amazing. You made a very good choice. My next vehicle will be a 97 or earlier Land Cruiser. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What are you driving? Also pictures! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Dude you deserve the “Cleanest Pathfinder Award” and I’m pretty sure you should start a detailing business! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

And USE* some leak detector bubble spray stuff. It sounded like I meant to put it in with the charge. You just pressurize the system and spray it everywhere and if there is a leak it’ll blow bubbles. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I agree that the junkyard might end up being a mistake that’ll cost you in the end because of contamination. A half plugged evap or condenser is going to look like it flushes out clean but it’s still half full of crud. The only thing I’d JY is the compressor itself because it’s expensive. Flush it super good and refill it with oil before installing it. There’s YouTube videos on how to do that. The best way to check for leaks IMO is to pressurize the system to 300psi with nitrogen and some leak detecting bubble spray stuff. If you can’t get ahold of nitrogen then charge you can try to just charge it with r134 but it’ll only charge to 100-150psi and if it’s a really slow leak you may not see it at all. But if your leak is very slow then you could just charge it with r134 and go with it. Recharge when you need to. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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