onespiritbrain

Yeah man, that's awesome that your engine made it! Near death experience for sure! CRC Electronics Cleaner https://www.amazon.com/CRC-5103-Quick-Electronic-Cleaner/dp/B000BXOGNI I've seen it at Walmart for $5 a can also. It's the same stuff as MAF Sensor Cleaner. The MAF stuff might be more gentle on buna rubber..? The CRC Electronics Cleaner mentioned above will elongate buna rubber seals. Nowhere near as bad as brake cleaner products but it still does a little bit. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I am glad your engine survived! I'm uh, giving up the 5th amendment here, but yeah.. while I was 3 foot deep in muddy water my engine would not run because of my wet MAF. I had to spit on it to get the clumps of mud off and then blow on it till it was dry... only then I was able to adequately destroy the engine by running it with a gallon of muddy water inside. In my case the air filter blew a giant hole in the center after it got wet and clogged. I had major amounts of water in the crank case and that water boiled when I ran the engine which blew every single seal imaginable.. poor engine looked just pitiful leaking that much oil from everywhere.. horrible.. still hurts my heart what I did to my beloved pathfinder.. she's back to life now though! We have got to get snorkels... I want to figure out if there is a way to pull air from the fresh air cowl and if it will still be protected if water rushes over top of the hood right into the cowl. I mean I'm pretty sure that water wouldn't have started blowing out of my AC vents.. maybe there is more air flow involved though. I might start a thread about this when I get ready to move forward with it.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Those seals are easy to replace too. I bet it adds maybe 30min total, maybe less if your not OCD like me.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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I wonder if any of the bluetooth obd2 scanners will display oil pressure... I've heard a tale of transmission temperature and lots of other readouts. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You'd need to get it hot for a good while to blow the HGs. So it is still running hot after a new thermostat? I suspect air in the cooling system. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Research.com brah Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Buy a set of the cheapest(softest) Harbor Freight punches, not brass or anything but just cheapo steel punches. It's a dirty laborious job.. you'll need a special socket to tighten the bearing retainer nut. I think that's what it's called.. the machined nut that sets and preloads the bearing. I'm at work right now but in 8 hours or so when I get home, I'll take a picture of the one I have. I had to modify one I found at the local auto parts store.. Preloading the bearing is probably that hardest part. Specs say like 13 INCH pounds of torque, which is less than the weight of my torque wrench resting on its own weight... and I think 13in pounds is in a perfect condition when the threads on the spindle and retainer nut are perfectly clean and greased... someone here will likely have better advice on how to set it by "feel" but I did mine by setting the bearing at 70-80 foot pounds and then loosing the retainer all the way. Then spin the wheel by hand and tighten the retainer until the wheel starts to show a small bit of resistance but still spins easily. I tried the 13 inch pound thing and had to come right back home and tighten it down because it was too loose. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What kind of camera are you using Micah? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Our bodies are so fragile.. God bless his family and loved ones. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mine as well.. what I have been doing lately, if I'm already rolling, is to shift into 2nd until about 4k RPM and then back to D. This seems to give me the little extra power that all the other vehicles on the road seem to already have... and if I'm too far past the reach of 2nd then kicking off the OD does help. I feel like kicking OD off is better than punching the gas until you finally drop down a gear with every ounce of power the engine can make applied to the clutch packs... Although the OD is finicky on Nissans. My Frontier had trouble with lockup from 40-45mph, my last transmission that died was the same, and now this transmission I have now was acting the same also. It has since stopped but I am weary of making the lockup clutch to do anymore work than it already has to.. I feel your pain though.. I have made my peace with the lack of power the 3.3 makes but I do find myself in situations, especial when other people are trying to make it to work on time, when I push my 3.3 so that I'm not the inconsiderate slow guy all the time.. Edit: The 3.3 wouldn't be half as bad with a manual transmission... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you're talking about the cradle, the piece that spans between the two front wheels and has the steering rack on top of it, then you don't need to worry. I always jack mine up right there with no wood at all.. metal on metal. If you're talking about the crossmember that supports the transmission then I don't know... since it is supporting more of the vehicle than just the front end, it could have warped it.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm sorry man but it sounds like the engine may have suffered damage when the timing belt broke on the PO. You will need to do a compression test. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You probably don't have top dead center on the compression stroke. If your blowing fire out of the intake then your timing is set at 180deg and you will need to reset everything.. Search for "how to find TDC compression stroke" Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think that switch would signal a relay for the brake lights. I could definitely be wrong though.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think one is for the brake lights and the other is to disengage cruise control. I would figure out which one is for the tail lights and use that one. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks like you have way too many of those.. I will gladly help you with that. Seriously though.. when the time comes I would love to be able to buy two of those. PM sent Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Use worm gear hose clamps, or better yet T-bolt clamps, that are the correct size instead of those pinch ones that were on there originally. I really want to get some tbolt clamps myself.. I am using worm gears now and they cut the hose up... tbolt clamps usually have a rolled edge and they will allow for a MUCH tighter clamp. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I would say that something isn't right. I have a 3.3 and 4lo has some serious torque. Of course this is speculation but I think in 4lo you'd be able to break the tires loose, at least to jump all over the place, on flat pavement if you were stopped from forward progression(i.e. strapped to a tree or something) How does it behave in 4lo while driving in a straight line on flat pavement? And also while your in 4lo on slightly inclined pavement if possible, put your trans in neutral and see if it rolls easily or if you can push it with normal resistance from the weight of the vehicle. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ohhhh.. I wasn't sure what these things did. Yeah these would be awesome for going down trails that were cut for ATVs and overgrowth. Will definitely have these in the future. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay so this all of the sudden makes sense to me. So the slope points out as far as possible.. it moves the strut straight out. The 45deg thing is what screwed me up... what is that there for??? Now if it is actually 45deg and not 90deg, which I indicated above, then I am again intimidated.. if it is 90deg then I get it and I'm going to use square tubing instead of round pipe. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I will probably start from scratch since the current winch mounting is where I will need to mount the bumper. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Dude yours looks awesome. That winch completes the bumper perfectly! I am excited to get a roof rack and bumper! Good job man Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk