onespiritbrain

+1 for thermostat but I’d definitely check that flow out like others have said. My frontier did this but I never found out what the culprit was before I crashed it to oblivion. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I should mention.. I did not have the issue spoken about here until I changed my brake shoes in the rear. I believe my double pumping for a more stiff brake pedal is because the rear shoes are not adjusted well at all and the wheel cylinders are fully extending during the fist brake pump and after braking the springs push it all back together, then the cycle repeats. I’ve pulled the ebrake hundreds of times to get the shoes to auto adjust but that function isn’t working for whatever reason. I need to get under there and make the adjustment by hand since there is a hole next to the bleeder where a flat head screw driver or brake tool can be used to make the adjustment. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That’s probably a bad fuel pump then. I’m not sure what the exact spec is for a vehicle fuel pump motor but 1ohm is something you’d see between leads on a big DC motor. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think you should check the splines inside your wheel hubs. Also my wife’s MDX had a bad cv axel and it would shake the vehicle to pieces from 35-55mph. However if it was cold outside it wouldn’t shake at all. Also the moment you let off the gas the shaking would cease. So the shaking in our MDX was only under acceleration. Also the next time it’s in the air take one of the wheels and turn it until the opposite wheel barely begins to turn, then turn it back until you feel resistance, then turn it forward again, this time let the opposite wheel turn a few inches. Keep going this way until you turn the wheel all the way around a few times. While your doing this pay close attention for a longer distance between when your start turning the wheel in your hands and when the opposite wheel starts turning. If you get to any “hard” spots or places where it’s harder to turn, or popping, or grinding then you may need to source a new front diff(junk yard). Also I think you may be able to do this same thing to investigate the transfer case by engaging 4WD(locked), placing the transmission in neutral, and follow the same steps above and instead of looking at the opposite wheel up front, look at the rear wheels. Hope you don’t find anything with the above procedure.. [emoji4] Maybe it’s worn out splines in one of those locking hubs!!! That’d be nice. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Have you happened to have switched to an “annual protection” synthetic oil? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m only just becoming familiar with the area up there. It’s in Clayton GA right beside Lake Burton. There very well may have been a track up there! There is a race track under Lake Lanier in Gainesville and when the Lake is very low the concrete bleachers are exposed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wildcat Creek Dicks Creek Great day Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have this same issue. I believe it is the turd carquest water pump I bought.. I guess it could also be the ps pump since I’m running 68 turbine oil.. I hope it’s something else on yours Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I was a total jerk to mine when I sunk it... I spun bearings. If you didn’t run the engine with water in the crankcase then you might just be okay. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The weird noise persists but the bubbling is definitely gone! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I just did a couple drain/fills and purged all the air and sure enough the bubbles ceased!!!!! Woo!!! I think the water pump stopped making that weird whirling/whining noise too! Thank You Lord!!!!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oh shoot.. yeah sorry that’s the radiator filler neck! When I rev the engine, bubbles and what appears to be almost a foam rushes thru the top of the radiator from the upper radiator hose. It does: -Bubble and almost foam from upper radiator hose -cause slow (plub.. plub..)bubbles to enter coolant reservoir (while engine is running and also 5-10min after engine is off) -water pump is making a strange 100-200Hz whirling sound(I didn’t think much of it until now) It does not: -overheat -boil over into the coolant reservoir -smell like exhaust in the reservoir -smell like coolant at the tailpipe -have oil in the coolant -have coolant in the oil I have decided against HG sealant. My next step it to buy a leak down test kit from the harbor. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Is there anything besides a bhg/shg that would cause this foaming of bubbles from the upper radiator hose? Please someone say there is... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I just saw this reply man, thank you. I actually do have an issue with gas dripping out of my charcoal canister.. I also have a hissing noise coming from where the brake pedal linkage travels thru the firewall which disappears the instant I barely press the pedal. Thanks again man Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Stock QX4 can go places it shouldn’t, that’s for sure. The only lack I see is a cheap solution to lock the rear diff. Otherwise its one of the best unibody 4x4s ever. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I am honing in on some misfires. I can’t use this scanners mode 6 function because apparently Nissan used different hex system for identification so I can’t make out what any of it means except o2 pass/fail results. Otherwise I’d be able to see exactly which cylinder is misfiring and whether or not it’s ignition, air, or fuel related. I plan to get a low-as-possible mileage distributor next time I go to pullapart. Also I want to get MAP and MAF sensors. Also while my car is on the way to getting warmed up I still have some long slow surging during acceleration. Once warm I am still seeing smooth power thru upper rpm. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

CNC?? You should keep it in the back of your mind while your doing this whether or not creating a kit might be a good idea. Looks great so far Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is brutal brah Nice job Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This Nissan proved itself today. We went to Sheep Wallow in Dawsonville GA and we were faced with more than we expected. We pulled in with a Jeep behind us and when we got to the trail head he called for us to ask where the “big mud hole” was. His buddy drove into the same mud hole that murdered my engine earlier this year! So I agreed to lead him down there.. So there are two paths to the 4ft deep mud hole and I accidentally chose the wrong one because I was nervous. The path I chose was only wrong because I do not have a solid front axel and the divots were HUGE! I had at least one wheel off the ground the entire time down that path!!! It was way more than I’ve ever done. Once we all got to the stuck red Jeep, the black Jeep winched him out. His engine survived because the intake is on the passenger side. Check out how deep this thing is; that water is up to his butt and would’ve been even worse but he caught himself before sinking into the rut. His Jeep is centered on the ridge. Next things got down right scary. We literally feared for our lives and the two guys riding with me jumped out to save theirs as we were sliding. I stayed with the vehicle because it looked to be dry(er) just before the cliff. We came around a curve on to the power line trail and to our right was a giant deep hole and we began to slide into it. Just before it was too late I let off the brakes and began to head straight for the literal cliff. You can see where I was sliding toward the hole here. And here are what you can see of the slide marks toward the cliff and then the cliff itself. I was trembling after it finally stopped and my tongue stuck to the top of my mouth. I was SCARED. Everything was fine after that though I did get stuck in some deep thick mud and winched out. On the way out I had to go back up that slippery hill from before.. I rode the edge of the cliff where it was dry to avoid filling my tread with mud and then once I was lined up I gunned the crap out of it and made it back up! Here are a couple pics of the scenery and us. I am very proud of my vehicle. It did a great job today. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I don’t know what constitutes a toasted trans, I mean outside loud violent grinding/slamming/jerking, but if you’re removing the trans and a rebuild costs a couple hundred plus needed tools... IMO you might as well buy a used trans from the junk yard. I’ve been blessed to have a flawless JY transmission and engine so I can personally vouch, with prayer, that you can get a good transmission from the JY. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sounds like the front ujoint to me. Pop under there and jerk on the front driveshaft. If that’s not it and it starts at 35mph; what does it do at 34.5mph? Is it completely smooth until BAM and it’s rumbling like crazy? Is there any onset to the rumble? If so, try to use the onset to locate the general area before the entire vehicle begins to resonate the vibrations. I’m thinking it’s that ujoint man.. I hope that’s what it is anyway. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I wish brother, I wish Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Before mud terrain tires; stuck! And after; champion! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oh yeah that's right. Nm Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[emoji23] Jack it up as high as you can safely and get you a hammer and chisel. You can probably find a long chisel or punch and get you a little short handled sledgehammer at Harbor Freight. Then beat that sucker until there's nothing left! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk