onespiritbrain

Glad you made the sale! I hope there is a forum like this one for your new vehicle. If you find one let me know. I haven’t looked for one yet for my Toyota so I’d be very interested to know. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I suspect the radiator. I just went thru this same issue over the last year and my issue ended up being a plugged radiator. I even flushed my radiator with acid and it remained plugged! You can grab a radiator for fairly cheap. I would go ahead and replace it so you can rule it out. I actually was about to change my head gaskets also... but one day while it was over heating I turned off the engine and placed my hand on the radiator and the middle of the radiator was completely cold while the left and right side were blazing hot! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That Toyota V8 is sooooooo nice, no more struggling to keep up with traffic! My wife has a GX470 which is the same thing as the V8 4Runner and it is amazing. You made a very good choice. My next vehicle will be a 97 or earlier Land Cruiser. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Dude you deserve the “Cleanest Pathfinder Award” and I’m pretty sure you should start a detailing business! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

And USE* some leak detector bubble spray stuff. It sounded like I meant to put it in with the charge. You just pressurize the system and spray it everywhere and if there is a leak it’ll blow bubbles. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I agree that the junkyard might end up being a mistake that’ll cost you in the end because of contamination. A half plugged evap or condenser is going to look like it flushes out clean but it’s still half full of crud. The only thing I’d JY is the compressor itself because it’s expensive. Flush it super good and refill it with oil before installing it. There’s YouTube videos on how to do that. The best way to check for leaks IMO is to pressurize the system to 300psi with nitrogen and some leak detecting bubble spray stuff. If you can’t get ahold of nitrogen then charge you can try to just charge it with r134 but it’ll only charge to 100-150psi and if it’s a really slow leak you may not see it at all. But if your leak is very slow then you could just charge it with r134 and go with it. Recharge when you need to. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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I’ve been reading and it looks like the 407 or 507 will “fractionate” creating small bursts of colder air at best and pockets without oil at worst. [emoji1304] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Subbed. Couldn’t we add a couple ounces of 407 or 507 to blend with 134? I run 407 and 507 in blow air chillers with very similar pressures (150 and 15) but at -30degF. I know that even if we could just replace 134 with 407 or 507 the air flowing over the evap would have to be extremely bone dry... I just wonder if there is a middle ground that we could find thru blending. I’d also imagine we’d have to only run it in the heat of the summer and replace it with 134 during the winter for defrosting/dehumidifying purposes. Who is going to test this out?? If I can find a compressor at the junk yard then I might perform a test! Wouldn’t be awesome to blow 33degF air on a 100degF plus day?? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wow... I grabbed the IR gun expecting to wine some more about it not being cold and I saw/felt this: I don’t know what changed but my goodness it’s working super good now! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

And if I’m not satisfied after further investigation, I’m going to go electric. I’ve been wanting to anyway but my hesitation is because of water/mud ingress. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It was just over an hour at 30inHg. My presssures are at 45-50 and 225-250. I’ll take a temp reading on the way home in just a little while. I need a dial thermometer, I’m using an IR gun and it’s hard to get a consistent reading. I saw 36degF driving at highway speeds previously and I just don’t think it’s that cold anymore. Also I sprayed the old condenser with the water hose to try to get an accurate pressure reading on the manifold and I saw 25 and 140 with very cold air coming from the vents(anecdotal). That makes me think that maybe I should lower the amount of refrigerant in the system. Edit: I wonder if an older and more worn compressor would perform better with lower system pressures... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I am going to try to have this done one mine. I wonder how poorly the retraction has to be. Mine will retract with assistance. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Dude, maybe it’s a bad caliper in the rear?!? Or like you said, the soft lines. When ever you find the culprit, you should destroy it in some creative way and post pictures; like melt it in an acid and record it in a time lapse. Or melt it down and make it into a knife so that you can recoup the heartache it caused with the joy of a new knife. ...sorry I get overly angry at inanimate objects... my dad was the same way.. it might be a genetic defect. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I never would’ve guessed the booster! I’m glad you got it bro. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Changed condenser and dryer https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180610/0503d95f2a4758fccefc72adb6e0044d.heic https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180610/7cf89da1a338eb0d5b4d3ce869cdcd6f.heic https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180610/56d1e5a5c4a534b6cdce8851bc6f7823.heic https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180610/44a34de3f22a11d4df693c5303bbe164.heic https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180610/c498617bd16694d93c9587c50350c0dc.heic Charged it right to spec at 1.5# but it’s not as cold as it should be or as cold as it was before the new condenser and dryer. I am going to push another 3-4oz and see if it drops down. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I feel the same way about this place. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I grabbed some at the pullapart but I stuck them on they were even worse. I’m gonna Rockauto them next time. I couldn’t open the back glass to test them at pullapart and I thought maybe they were good just pushing them in by hand. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks man Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Do your gas shocks push open the rear window when you hit the button or do you have to pull it up by hand a bit, then they push it the rest of the way? And does it stay open by itself once it’s all the way up? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wow good find on that engine. Subbed Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m not sure if the fitting on the end of the front brake lines is pipe thread, bolt thread, or a banjo but I wonder what would happen if you plugged/capped them off right before the calipers and also have the rears plugged at the master. Then switch it to test the rear soft lines. Rule those things out.. This is brutal. I am always worried about something like this happening when I am changing brake pads. I actually don’t ever bleed the brakes because of this stuff.. I had a civic that never was right again after bleeding the brakes to change pads. If you could get set up to where you could test one item a time or something..? It’s really tough because like you said if the master is sensing a problem somewhere and causing different conditions while your trying to track down an actual problem... sheesh! I just plain old have no experience working with brakes. Dude it might be a benefit to use one of those websites where you pay to talk to someone who specializes in the exact area of your problem and is specific to Nissan. Then you could tell them everything exactly as you have already done it and if they’re worth their salt they’ll know the right path forward. I will be researching and thinking too man. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I thought I read somewhere up there that you were able to produce a stiff pedal, what condition was it? It looks like this is a brute force repair so it might be good to make a list of every single thing you’ve tried so far.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I can’t seem to find an oil filter that makes it better. I’ve tried the premium carquest brand that is supposedly a rebranded WIX/Napa Gold and I’ve tried the premium Fram as well as the basic carquest and fram... I will try taking the oil pressure sensor out and cleaning it up. Maybe it is partially blocked and taking longer to build pressure behind the blockage. I want to play around with viscosities too but I’m weary about it with all the valvetrain noise I already have.. We shall see.. I plan to mess around with it this holiday weekend. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk