onespiritbrain

I have not changed it and come to think of it, maybe that’s what’s leaking in that area on mine because I do have a leak there. I chalked it up to the oil filter housing... That’s really a bad place to have a leak because it might bypass the oil filters internal check valve and let the oil galleries drain! I didn’t think about that at all and that could definitely cause the oil system to take longer pressurizing. I’m going to check that out man thank you! It does vary quite a bit. Today after a bunch of 1st gear trail riding and coolant temps in the high 190’s I shut the car off for a while and expected to see the longest oil light yet but instead I got this: https://youtu.be/4-O3yCQTChk I think maybe it did well because it was only like 15 minutes compared to 4 hours like in the other two videos. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well since it’s all over the bottom of the bell housing I might lean towards a possible rear main seal. It could also be coming from somewhere higher up like a valve cover or ever further forward like the oil filter housing or oil sending unit and it’s being blown back during driving. Do you get any puddles on the ground after it has sat for a while? Also.. my steering rack leaks a sieve and I have fresh hydraulic oil as far back as my post cats on account of it getting blown all the way back there. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I don’t know why but I just do not remember it staying on that long.. can it really be that I’m having some sort of brain malfunction?? I haven’t caught it on video yet but sometimes it stays on about half a second longer than in these videos and with a few quick flashes at the end that fade in intensity with each flash. All my internet searching has turned up similar situations to mine with answers that say it is normal. However I have watched my wife’s GX470 and it doesn’t stay on past the other lights which all go out together. Same with my friends Silverado, the oil light is on for a short fraction of a second past the other lights which go out after its started. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Do you guys see your oil light for several seconds after starting your engine in warm condition? So you can see exactly what I am seeing: https://youtu.be/33VN0MBrUWs https://youtu.be/hg0jWD--liw Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mine is many multiple millions of times dirtier than that.. it’s basically just a big ball of dirt rolling down the road. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It sounds like you might have leaking intake manifold gaskets. You should do a smoke test. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sounds like you know about this stuff.. like his tach, my odometer is on the fritz and rarely shows mileage. Most of the time it’s random numbers and partial digits jumping all over the place. Is there a known connection issue I missed while I had the cluster out? Is there anything I can do about it? Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Please elaborate. Thank you and also pictures. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

head gasket? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok looks like it’s an 8mmx1.25 so a 13mm will fit it! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Lol Sorry.. I don’t know why but your consecutive posts made for a laugh! [emoji4] It’s funny because I know your out there probably covered in grease posting on your phone out of frustration. Been there hahaha! I’ll go look around for the bolt size. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have heard to use a large/heavy soft rubber hammer to locate suspension noises. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I haven’t done any mileage tests yet to confirm this, but I’m definitely getting significantly better gas mileage with my tires at 38psi. They were at 25psi per the chalk test and it was like having the brakes depressed slightly all the time. Many times I could just let off the gas at a reasonable distance before a turn and I barely had to hit the brakes to make the turn... Also the howl, which I liked at first but is a nuisance, is muuuuuuch quieter! I was getting 13.5-14.5 miles per gallon before and I bet I’m getting 16 now. We’ll see though.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

+1 for rebuilding the pickup and knocking in the pan. Grab a section of some 1-2” bar stock and lay it across the pan where the diff is making contact. Maybe heat the pan where you want to knock it in so you don’t destroy the whole thing and hit the bar stock for a smooth dip in just the right area. Then trim down the pickup and TIG it back together. Or if you don’t have a TIG, braze that thing back together. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you man I just got mine downloaded! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Pullapart is awesome Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

As I took this thing apart I was thinking oh crap this thing looks fine.... but as you can see it was plugged exactly how it felt to the touch, cold in the middle and hot on the sides! https://youtu.be/XD1vCBQwP_U Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve got machines down right now, it might be tomorrow before I get the old radiator torn down. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I sure do and in approximately 10 hours I will take it apart and post pictures. I am interested to see what the trans cooler portion looks like. I’ll also try to figure out what brand it is since I don’t think I saw the Nissan symbol on it anywhere but I guess they all use basically the exact same design. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah I guess it would’ve helped to say that I overheated today on the interstate! That’s why I went ahead and bought a radiator. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I bought a new radiator today and it’s fairly conclusive that the radiator was no good. I took the radiator loose at the parts store and felt around a bit and the whole middle of the radiator was cold to the touch. The outer sides were scalding hot and the coolant temp was like 210degF. I slapped a new radiator on tonight at work and on the way home I couldn’t get the temperature above 189degF and that was on a giant long hill and even then it barely hit 189 for literally 2-3seconds and then it was back to 185 the moment the hill leveled out. The majority of the time the temp stayed at 183degF! Yaaayyyyyyyyy!!!!!!!! I’m so happy! Thank the Lord! Tomorrow we’ll see how it does with the AC on and on the blacktop Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Dude wow! I thought the MAF calculated temperature somehow! Thank you very much! That is definitely a phantom signal from the throttle position. I actually didn’t notice it until you mentioned it right now. I have a spare TPS so I will pop that on there and I will also dig into this IAT sensor. I tell you what... one of my favorite parts about having this Pathfinder is this forum. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have a feeling that it may have something to do with the MAF. I got the Nissan Quest MAF in now and it is exactly the same part. It graphs smoother but I still saw a very large spike. I’ll post the pic of the spike below. New (to me) MAF Original MAF I think either I have a wiring issue at the plug or somewhere in the harness or I actually did get water on the ECU at Sheeps Wallow. I don’t have any pinging as far as I can tell (loud tires....) and I guess the above might be why. I am currently at about 22deg advanced and it is some what better with slight hesitation... There was also a post about installing the dizzy 1 tooth of for a 7deg +- so 22 - 7 is 15! Maybe it seems better because it is. Anyway this has been quite a headache but I think I am walking away in better condition than I was before since my transmission is going to be spared from some serious heat, especially as the summer approaches. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

400-600 grit sand paper torn into small pieces and wetted with alcohol. Use tooth picks or what ever you can find that’s small and strong enough to bear down with. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk