onespiritbrain

Go to a junkyard and look for a distributor in a nissan quest minivan. Might grab the alternator while you're there. These OEM distributors sell for $$$ on ebay.

i know its a different engine but slart solved my high idle issue long ago.. look here:

awesome

5w30, 15w40, and 30SAE all perform about the same with 5w30 allowing for more cold start clatter. I went on Bobistheoilguy and asked why I have so much more noise with 10w30 and I was told that a 10w30 oil blend can actually have a thinner base with additives that cause the blend to perform to 10w30 specs. Apparently manufacturers can say whatever they want to on the bottle as long as it performs a certain way in a lab.. At the end of the day I dont actually know what the heck is going on with the oils.. All I know is my engine sounds awful with 10w30 but purrs with 5w30, 15w40, and 30SAE. Also I chipped out my pre-cats the last time I had the engine out. Stinks to high heaven every morning, hah! Gear pumps are positive displacement so if the internals of the pump are worn then a thicker oil will actually produce higher flow and pressures at run temps. The thicker the oil I use the less clatter I hear, even on cold starts. I think the only real drawback to using higher viscosity oil is a reduction in power. Since the pump is positive displacement, if there is a restriction to flow, whether its higher viscosity oil or a blocked path of flow, the whole engine will be slowed down. PD pumps (pumping non-compressible fluid) will not slip, they will bog whatever motor is turning them or they will explode, or they will cause something down the line to explode, usually a hose. However when you start getting into worn PD pumps things can get weird. I think the weirdness of worn gear pumps is what I am dealing with, in combo with the weirdness of oil blend shenanigans.

Go to junk yard and pull a whole new distributor out of an old nissan quest minivan (the pathfinders are always raped down to the frame). Might grab the HO alternator while your there too. If you still have misfire issues afterward then you can dig deeper.

Wanted to update this thread. I was too scared to put 15w40 in while my QX4 was my only mode of transportation but when I got the truck I put it in and the valve train noise disappeared completely. I am now putting SAE30 "Heavy Duty Diesel" oil in and I have no valvetrain noise at all. When winter rolls around I will probably switch to 15w40 Delo. SAE30 is cheap and its always in stock at Walmart

i would suggest identifying a clear communicable issue, for example, my steering wheel doesnt return to the exact same place after taking a curve (steering rack bushings) or it is harder than it should be to drive in a straight line (tie rod, ball joint, alignment). if you present a vague issue then we can only really provide vague responses. when you say mountain roads, do you mean paved roads, gravel, dirt? i cant imagine driving in a straight line would be an issue traversing a mountain since there wont be any straight lines.

The boys and I went to Charlies Creek last weekend to camp and it turned out to be one of the best camping experiences I've ever had. The spot we got was one of only three established camping areas on the entire trail and was right beside the trail. I didn't like being right beside the trail at first but we ended up getting to see several convoys, one that was comprised of at least 30 vehicles, travel right next to us. It was pretty cool. Only one vehicle came thru after dark and was lit up like a Christmas tree with amber light bars. I remembered hawairish saying that the amber color produces more usable light and it did appear to be the case. It was like the trail was awash with very warm light instead of the abhorrent purple blue light that light bars otherwise output. I think I am going to get some gel film to either go full amber or at least get down to about 3000k. The only negative was I couldn't sleep a wink. This however enabled me to be present when two owls began hooting to each other at precisely 2:36AM and ended at 2:40AM. There was one owl which was, I would guess, 20-30 yards away from me and then another one which was much further away. When the one close to me would hoot I could almost feel the sound. It was a powerful hoot with three smaller hoots right after it. After the one close to me did its thing, the other one made the exact same hoot with three smaller hoots behind it. Toward the end of their hooting to each other they started changing the amount of smaller hoots. The one close to me only did two smaller hoots and then the other one still did three. The the one further away did two smaller hoots and the one close to me did four. They were clearly talking to each other and when they finished they did not make a single peep the entire rest of the night. It was truly something and I will always remember the wonder I felt when it was clear to me they were talking to each other. Here are the pics and vids of us. It really was so much fun and my youngest son, who is incredibly picky and wont eat anything, tried all the camping food I made. I was so proud of him. What a great time and the trees surrounding the campsite were amazing. I dont know what kind of trees they were but it was a beautiful twisted mess of dense woods above a crystal clear creek.

Mine rattles a lot louder under load and over a larger RPM range when the engine is cold. For instance when I drive up the hill after I pull out of my driveway in the mornings, the rattling is very pronounced and I can literally hear it echoing off of the houses as I drive by but if I have to go out to get food after I get home from work and the engine is still warmed up I can barely hear it at all except for right at 1800-1900rpm for a brief second. Im sure the loose or broken heat shielding or whatever is vibrating will eventually begin rattling even in neutral/park. You may have to wait until the problem can be identified under safe conditions.

I have removed a lot of my heat shielding because it was all falling apart and I do not notice any issues with heat damaging components under there. I too have rattling and I'm almost positive it is coming from resonance in the exhaust piping itself. I have observed the pipe vibrating when the sound appears. But I can produce the sound in neutral.. Have you tried power braking to see if you can find a spot where the rattle appears? If you can force the sound to appear while stationary maybe you could back up against something completely solid (if you have a tow hitch or something that wont get damaged), like a giant cement structure that you're 1000% sure cannot move, and then have someone apply power until the rattle appears and then you carefully find it with a long stick. The rattling should stop when you jam a stick against it.

Have you checked your mass airflow sensor? If its dirty then your ECM might think there is less air than actual causing a lean condition and ultimately a spark knock under load. Spark knock can sound VERY much like a heat shield rattling

I was just driving down the road, on the way back to my job with a smile on my face, and THUD....engine is dead. I coast into the turning lane and put it in park. Attempts to crank the engine all fail...the engine turns over and sounds completely normal but just will not crank! I get out and look under the hood for some time and cant locate a single thing that might be wrong. After sitting there a while and debating whether to walk back or call someone (just started a new job and didnt want them to think I suck at fixing things...if only they saw my transmission blunder hahahaha) I remembered that I have the OBDii scanner and so I ran a scan. "P1320 Primary Ignition Signal Fault" was the code.. After researching for a little while I settled on the coil pack inside the distributor. Damn! I work in the middle of Lawrenceville GA on highway 20 and there's a ton of traffic... I waited for a break in traffic far off in the distance and started pushing as hard as I could and when the break got to where I was I jerked the wheel and made it across the lanes into a small African produce store. I went inside the store and the kindest old African man not only let me leave my car in front of his store but also insisted on helping me fix the issue. The part wouldn't be there until much later that evening so I thanked him and walked back to work. A month or so prior my best friend and I went to a junkyard we found in the middle of Jefferson GA and I just so happened to find a pristine factory OEM Nissan distributor on a QX4 that just so happened to also have the rear wing that I'd been searching for since the beginning of this thread! I had my wife bring me the part and my vehicle fired right up! Woo! Now I have a waterfall of an oil leak coming from somewhere...better not be the heads! I believe its a camshaft seal or maybe the front crank seal. We shall see...I'm adding 2-3quarts a week at this point.

production on that video was on point. i hope your channel keeps growing!

Awesome!

I don’t know that I’ve been honked at but I can say that 95% of the time when taking off from a stop that I am an inconvenience due to being slower than nearly every other vehicle out there (aside from a loaded down tractor trailer). It’s definitely a pain to drive my VG33 QX4, my wife’s GX470 has so much more power it’s like night and day. I haven’t does this... but I often imagine opening my sunroof right when I leave the house and then flipping pennies out from below the plane of view at people that ride my ass. Then when they hop out at the next stop to do something about it— well the imagination goes on but I’ll leave it here.

I went to a new junkyard the day before yesterday called Encore in Jefferson GA ( @03TroutFinder ), and it has pathfinders that are not raped to the bone. I found an OEM dizzy that looks pristine, it even had the original cap/rotor (I'm saving it for when I eventually need it). I also, after at least 10 trips to other junkyards, found a rear wing. Finally I grabbed a passenger side marker to replace the one that broke when that guy crashed into me and peace offered me a mcfish sandwich at 8am in the morning... So after acquiring the above mentioned parts I went to work and performed the following: new spark plugs new spark wires new dizzy cap new dizzy rotor fixed coolant leak under throttle body installed new to me passenger side marker installed new to me rear wing Happy New Year!!! _,,..--;;:::2021:::;;--..,,_

I’m not sure if the 03 is the same as a 98 but the cabin temp sensor on my 98 is to the right of the steering wheel and to the left of the radio, right about where my keys hang from the ignition, but on the dash. I do also have a sunlight sensor on the top of the dash, under the windshield.

It was really difficult to turn the adjustment screw so I’m not sure exactly how many turns but it was at least 4 full rotations.

As usual Slart nasty was right on the money! Thanks dude The IACV was adjusted for a dirty condition throttle body... I bet I will have to clean the throttle body more often now. Which I prefer.

I found it and I’m gonna adjust after the FIC adjustment process. Currently my engine is getting up to temperature. It started off at 1100-1200RPM when I first started the engine but now as it’s heating up the RPM are speeding up. At 170degF it’s at 1500RPM...

.

Where/what is this screw??? And where is the increased air coming from...?

I just looked at the FIC adjustment in the FSM and mine is way out. I didn’t adjust the FIC, I adjusted the one at the top that has the DO NOT ADJUST disclaimers. What will adjusting that one hurt?

1999 Infiniti QX4 VG33 I cleaned my throttle body because the baffle was sticking harder and harder over the last couple months. After cleaning off the 1/32” of gunk my idle went from 750-850RPM to 1200-1300RPM. With the idle high like is, when I put it in D the vehicle wants to move forward. I have to press the brakes harder to keep from moving forward. Then when slowing down from highway speeds the trans downshifts harder than normal around 45mph. I believe it’s actually the lockup clutch disengaging while still receiving torque from the engine. I can’t figure out how to adjust the IACV under the intake and so I decided to adjust the fast idle which worked well to bring the idle RPM back to the 750-850 range. I marked it so I know where to put it back at if need be. The problem is that when I started the engine earlier the O/D light began flashing for about 10-15 seconds. I am worried that I will somehow damage the trans and that I’ll have to put yet another one in... After adjusting the fast idle the rough downshift/lockup is gone completely, and is actually smoother than ever. Things I have considered: 1. There is a significant vacuum leak that began when I cleaned the throttle body which is the root cause of the high idle. 2. I didn’t allow enough time to let the ECU readjust for the newly cleaned throttle body. 3. I removed enough metal during cleaning (maroon scotchbrite) that the baffle is permanently passing more air and the factory fast idle setting is no longer useful. I’m shooting in the dark with this and need someone to shine a light.

Congratulations!