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Backpacker

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Posts posted by Backpacker

  1. It could've been worse but hopefully it didn't damage anything more than the hubs. I swapped to manual hubs on my 87 and it's barely half way through my build sheet, but once it's done I can't wait to get back out to my old spots.

     

    Oh and by the way I'd go ahead and change your front differential gear oil and your transfer case just incase, especially the front differential though.

     

    Sent from inside my potato

    Yeah that's next on my list too haha. As of right now I have 5qts of mt90 in the back for the trans but have yet to get the drain bolt off, need to find a buddy with an impact maybe. I bought a 1/2"-3/4" adapter to grind down for a snug fit to the drain bolts, but I want to try the impact before I go through all that trouble.

     

     

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  2. Take your hubs off, take the inner pawl out so it's basically just a dust cap and then drive it around for a bit checking for noise. You'll probably be fine once you either swap in another set of auto hubs or swap over to a set of factory manual hubs. The hub is designed to be the weak link so the rest of the system doesn't take the damage, I only suggest taking them apart incase one is damaged to the point that it randomly engages which is highly unlikely but it's what I'd do.

     

    I'd also swap to manual hubs that way you know they're locked or unlocked and if you're trying to rock yourself out of a hole they won't be locking and unlocking as you change direction.

     

    Also check your cv axles for any up and down play (the shaft will move in and out slightly)

     

    Sent from inside my potato

    Thanks RCW, I'll do that. They stopped making noise after I figured out what was wrong but that sounds like the safest solution. Manual hubs were pretty much next on my list of purchases so If that's all that might have gone messed up I'm not too worried now.

    The CV's have maybe only 15k on them so they shouldn't have any play hopefully.

     

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  3. Probably trashed my 4x4 today. God am I stupid. Was doin a day trip on some dirt roads and my copilot wanted to know how the 4x4 worked. Showed her but forgot to back it up to disengage the auto hubs. Drove a few miles at 55 on the highway and started feeling some random vibrations/noises. Pulled over to inspect, couldn't find anything wrong that would be grinding/making noise. Continued for about a 1/2 mile till I heard the loudest noise reverberating from the wall I was driving alongside. Sounded like what I would assume is the ratchet mechanism in the hubs, it was loud. But I made it home an additional 100 miles with no issues once I disengaged the hubs.

     

     

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  4. One of the belts on my 89, not sure if a drive belt or the timing belt, makes a slightly annoying noise at idle. My bet is on the the timing belt, I just changed it but rechecked the tension after 500 miles and it's pretty close to spec. It's sounds like a rubbing noise, someone described it once as a hive of bees lol but that's an exaggeration.

     

    Anyways, it goes away the second I give it any kind of throttle, even just a little bit where you can barely notice the tach increase. I don't think it's really an issue so I'd like to get rid of the noise by increasing my idle a slight bit. I couldn't find anything in the FSM on how to do this, is it in there and I just can't find it?

    Any help would be appreciated!

     

     

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  5. coolant good, oil was a little low. no codes on my Ultra Guage no CEL. On the drive home from work yesterday I kept an eye on my ultra guage. at 1/4 throttle RPM was about 1850 and speed was 40KM/H. engine was producing 200 ft of torque and running at 100% of output. when I got home I popped the hood and listen to a sound that I can describe as similar to a bit of plastic hitting a fan blade. if I opened the throttle the "ticking" sound got faster. it seems to be coming from under the throttle body. I have a feeling that it is a bad injector. looks like I'll be bringing it to a local shop.

    I had a noise that sounds just like you described, my timing belt was loose as a goose. If you jumped time it could run like crap.

     

     

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  6. Don't feel bad about it, usually when you're focused on something you skip over small stuff. I do it a lot lol

     

    Sent from inside my potato

    Yeah, the first time I pulled the belts was for the timing belt, so my mind was definitely cluttered, since then I've just been on autopilot every time I've had to take them off doing it the same way each time.

     

     

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  7. The trick to getting the PS belt off is to remove the bolt that holds the metal tube in place for the lower radiator hose. Then when everything is loose you can push the pump towards the block and pop the belt over the edge of the pulley.

     

    Sent from inside my potato

    ive pulled my timing covers twice this week and both times with that metal coolant bracket off I couldn't do it. I even tried wacking it with a breaker bar to try an rotate it. I think my problem is that bolt behind the pulley which I think is where it rotates from, is TIGHT. You can't get to it with the pulley on and every time I have it off I forget to break it loose so I can do it right.

     

     

     

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  8. Mine squeals like a banshee to a start. Haha, I hate hate hate changing belts on this thing. Haha.

    ive pulled my belts off so many times in the last 2 months I got it down like clockwork. Gotta use the dewalt to buzz 2 of them quickly. I have yet been able to remove the p/s belt without removing the pulley though , pain in my royal ass.

     

     

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  9. Does anyone know what kind of clearances are between the valve/pistons? When I did mine last week I slowly cranked it over with a rachet and all plugs removed. It's turns very easy with minimal resistance, so I would think you could feel if the valves/pistons meet depending on how far their respective strokes cross over? Isn't that the whole point for why it's recommended to remove the plugs? I set it at tdc before removing the old belt with the plugs in. It was a little harder to turn over but didn't end up being an issue.

     

     

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  10. For those above with the cruise not working, it may just be you need to replace the rubber bumper on the brake pedal. This definitely applies to WD21s, but I can't say if R50s are the same way.

     

    Here's a great pic of what's going on under the dash: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/36370-help-rear-brake-light-stuck-on-abs-dash-light-also-on/?p=684087

     

    One of those bumpers is for the brake lights, the other is for cruise. If the Cruise light on the dash works but you can't set speed, then this is likely your culprit. The parts are about $3 from the dealer, and strongly recommend replacing both at the same time.

    I was just under there and saw mine was an electrical tape/cardboard dealio just for the brake light switch side haha looks like I'll be picking some up.

     

     

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  11. Just remember that the dimples on the upper timing covers are more of a guideline and counting the teeth on the belt is the only reliable and foolproof way to know you've done it correctly.

     

    Sent from inside my potato

    Definitely.

     

    I just did mine and the teeth count was accurate but the cam backing plate marks were about a tooth off in each direction.

     

     

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  12. Went to the junkyard to get a door handle. Came back with a 95 center console, practically new rear bump stops, door armrest, hydraulic line clippie things, and an oem spare tire cover for about $55. Fixed the broken door handle, it's from a newer pathfinder so slightly different, but it works good. Readjusted the latch mechanism and some kind of aftermarket power locks.

    The console was out of an automatic newer model. I cut it really quick and it fits nicely, and it has an armrest finally, makes driving the stick a lot more comfortable.

    I'm keeping my eye out for manual hubs, their listed for like $15 a pair at all my local yards. I still have a few to check out.

     

     

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  13. I might just be paranoid but since doing my timing belt on my 89, my engine makes a loud almost whistling/whirring type of noise that follows rpm. It's much better than the loud rattle I had from the previous, very loose belt. I used the twist method of tensioning it described in one of the threads in the garage because I was in a hurry at that point. I'm going to figure a way to recheck the tension using the 22lbs method in the FSM but probably not for a day or two. I've put about 60 miles on the new belt so far with no change in noise, but it runs great besides that. If the belt is too tight, how safe is it to keep driving it so say, 100 miles before I check it? I plan on re torquing the crank bolt and probably checking the new water pump seal for leaks anyways.

     

     

    On another note, it's possible I put one or two of the old drive belts on backwards which I know can make noise, so I'm going to replace all of them and see if it changes. They're in good shape but I don't know how old they are.

     

     

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  14. Bought this rig a month ago and put 600 miles on it with only an oil change and new ignition parts. I thought the engine noise was broken studs/heat shields. Turns out my belt is so loose I can deflect it an inch with my pinky finger!!!

    All the goodies came in today hopefully I can get the job done by the weekend for some wheelin!

    5c6f1802c2a0dbed6ba8993debbfd59d.jpg

     

     

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