Backpacker
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Posts posted by Backpacker
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If you haven't got a breaker bar handy and need extra torque...
Use a combination wrench (box and open ended) and put the box end on the stubborn bolt. Then slide another combination wrench's box end on the open end of the wrench that's on the bolt. It's a bit hard to explain w/o pictures, but if you try it you'll see what I'm talking about. Be sure to keep the wrenches in line with each other and you'll find that you can apply gobs of force to turn the bolt.
Something I thought of this weekend worked really well when I didn't have a cheater pipe large enough to fit over the open end of a wrench: a deep well impact socket that fit snug with an extension for leverage. It worked great.
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Figured I'd update this,
After watching YouTube videos and using a stethoscope I'm pretty certain its belt slap and my tensioner is going out. I bought a timing belt kit, cam/crank seals, thermostat and the bypass hose. I'm not going to drive it till they come in sometime next week.
I'll update once I dig in to it.
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I'm getting a weird noise for about the first minute or two when the engine is cold, it sounds like it's coming from the passenger side of the timing cover. It sounds like something maybe plastic rattling around. but I'm almost certain it's from the timing belt area. I tried to use my stethoscope today but the noise went away by the time I pulled it out to listen. I took a video of the noise,
The noise isn't 100% consistent, the quick taps vary in loudness
Any idea what it might be?
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Clutch damper bypass and new master/slave cylinders. Gonna try to get the plugs/wires and maybe distributor done today as well.
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I just did this today and replaced the master and slave. The Napa part is correct for the 1989 model. Couldn't find the Dorman part anywhere but got a similar one different brand and the thread was wrong. If anyone reads this and is unsure of which fitting will work, the line from master to the valve is super easy to remove and take into the store to guarantee a fit, thats what I did the second time around. I used a $7 hand oiler to pump the fluid from the slave bleeder, filled it and no air got in.
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Please tell me someone has the answer to this dilemma
I bought the truck off the guy that posted above you. It was throwing codes for Cylinder Head Temp Sensor, Crank Angle Sensor, and Fuel Injection Circuit in limp mode.
I replaced the Water temp sensor behind the timing cover which removed that code, then tested and replaced one of the fuel injectors and now its running flawlessly with zero fault codes.
The 2 injector TBI system uses one injector at idle, and uses both under load. I'm not sure what else puts it in limp mode but I know the injector does for sure so I would start there.
I would start with checking the injector resistance because its the easiest test:
unplug the injector harness connector and test the resistance between the two top left pins, then the two top right pins, should be about 1.5 ohms each. if its not, replace it or rebuild the bad one. ~$60 to rebuild and ~$300 new a piece
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Just dodged a bullet. Decided to pull my timing cover on my new-to-me 1989 and it was about to fall off.
in The Garage
Posted
Bought this rig a month ago and put 600 miles on it with only an oil change and new ignition parts. I thought the engine noise was broken studs/heat shields. Turns out my belt is so loose I can deflect it an inch with my pinky finger!!!
All the goodies came in today hopefully I can get the job done by the weekend for some wheelin!
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