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Posts posted by Backpacker

  1. Looks to me like an over ride button for an engine kill switch. I have a button like that on my '95 Maxima that came with an engine kill installed by the Nissan dealer.


    Basically, if you don't have the special key to disarm the engine kill you can press that button and it will over ride the system and let you start the truck without the key.

    My ignition is all kinds of weird. Any key will start it, and weird stuff happens sometimes with the alarm



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  2. So this is the first rig I've had where the alternator is all the way on the bottom of the engine. Have any of you had problems with the alternator being submerged when going in deep water? Im concerned because my old alternator died on me a month ago when it was raining hard and I did about 3 hours of city driving in a big storm.


    I'm about to start the process of water proofing everything so I can go to my favorite camping spot which requires getting about 2.5-3ft deep. I need to find what needs extended breathers, and decide whether I'm going to relocate my ecu or build a waterproof enclosure. Also need to do an electric fan mod. My current fan is cracking in spots and I'm sure it will get crazy if it hits water, even without the current wear on it.



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  3. Installed the new oil pressure sender. I kind of freaked out and thought my gauge wasn't reading at idle until I gave it some gas. I just need to hard mount it now.

    Which one did you get? This is on my list of things to do sooner than later. I don't like not having one.



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  4. Have never seen a vacuum routing diagram under the bonnet, but will double check just in case.

    It definitely goes to the inlet side of the engine, so rules out the dizzy vacuum (and that hose is connected anyway)....but I will move the hose around and see where it reaches....

    When the engine in running the hose is sucking.

    If it's sucking, one thing it'll do is probably run your idle higher than normal. I've gotten familiar with the service manual for mine and it has the 4cyl stuff in it. I'll take a look at it and try to find the pages with relevant info and show you.



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    I picked up an 89 in November. When I first start it up, 2nd would some times be a pain to engage and grind occasionally. I've replaced the gear oil and it's a lot better at the first shift into 2nd on cold start up. The old oil was super dark and black like used motor oil, I would change that first if it looks bad. Post a picture of the fill hole in your transmission, there is a TSB on some of them where they put the hole too low and you need to add an additional quart or so through the gear shifter on top of the transmission.


    There was also a mod I did to remove the clutch dampener. It's a valve between the master and slave cylinder that makes the clutch feedback a little slow for "smoother shifting" and can be removed and replaced with a fitting. I thought that was the source of the clutch problems I was having(losing pressure after long drives) but it turns out my slave was just shot. It can be a real pain to bleed the clutch with the bypass valve, so maybe whoever replaced the master didn't get it fully bled.



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  6. Got my cruise control working. The stealership wanted $16 a piece for the rubber nipple things that go on the brake pedal. I duct taped some cardboard to it temporarily till I can find time to get some from the junk yard. This is an improvement to the previous owners crappy attempt at the same fix. It's working really good and makes my 50 mile one way commute to school a little nicer.



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  7. Washed about a million tons of salt off of it. I swear, Michigan winters are going to kill this thing long before any crazy stunt I pull... Any suggestions for rust repair inside the back door well (the curved part by the wheel)? Seems like it would be a pain in the $@* to replace anything in that area.

    I'm glad I live in the south west. Only thing I have to clean off is mud, but sometimes I'll get this clay-mud all over it that takes hours to get off the fenders if it dries.



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    • Like 1
  8. I have a 1996 Pathfinder R50 VG33E.


    It was driving fine one minute - the next it lost all power and had no acceleration. Now, it just wont start.


    I have checked the MAF sensor and all seems good. I have checked the spark plugs, got a new distributor cap and rotor arm, checked the distributor bits and pieces - and again all seems good.


    I've checked the fuel pump - and there's plenty of fuel. So I have air, fuel and a spark but still wont start.


    Today I pulled a rocker cover off to just have a look at the rockers etc, while it was off and the fuel lines disconnected I turned it over - and it started. Obviously, didn't run for long 1) I had the rocker cover off and didn't want it to run for too long and 2) the fuel lines were off.


    So, I got all excited and put it all back together - and now it wont start again. If I remove the fuel feed line, it will - but as soon as I connect the fuel back up it just turns over.


    Has anyone come across this before or have any ideas where I should be looking as it has me stumped.


    Thanks in advance

    Maybe check your fuel filter? I'd imagine if it got completely clogged up, the fuel would stay in the lines, and when you disconnected the line it allowed a little bit of gas to seep into the injectors. (Think picking up water with a straw, with your finger on the top open end, once you move your finger the water will fall out of the straw.). It's a long shot as I've never heard of it happen, but that's what my brain is telling me from what you've stated.



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  9. Having metal particles on the magnet isn't unusual. It doesn't look excessive to me. The only concerning part is that large wire looking piece. Usually, it is just fine particles like all of the rest.


    Personally, I wouldn't worry too much about it though.

    Wire is probably from the oil catch pan, it was a raisable shop style one with a drain. The bolt dropped onto it and probably picked it up there.



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  10. df06165c2242efd1c6684a8686ef24d6.jpg

    Finally got her in the air so I could get proper leverage for the trans bolt. Took a 4 foot cheater to break loose! Replaced the inner shift boot and topped it off through the shifter with redline. Next time I'm doing the whole job through the shifter. Someone on here said it took ages for the oil to seep through the shifter hole, but mine ate up a quart and a half in no time. Maybe they didn't pull it out all the way.


    Thoughts on this drain plug? The old oil was the blackest gear oi I've ever seen, I don't know how old the fluid was. Truck has 128k mi and it could have very well been the original oil.






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