Saturn

So I'm hopefully gonna be doing a 4wd conversion relatively soon on my 02 pathy, but I want to make sure I get the right transmission. The production date on my truck is 11/01, so I know nothing before 08/01 will work, but does anyone know for sure if everything up to 04 will work? Cause someone's parting out a crashed but running and driving 04 and I'm thinking about jumping on it. I checked as many part numbers as I could, Rockauto lists the same valve bodies for 02 and 04, but I always feel more comfortable asking y'all to be sure.

Check oil for milkshake, if that's good replace plugs and maf, worked for me when I drowned my motor.

If I were you I'd order a set of new cats and replace the whole payback with a JY setup. 1100$ actually isn't crazy as cars are expensive and they probably have a standard markup, and they realize some cutting and welding will probably need to be done and most auto shops aren't great at that, they might only have 1 guy that does it or have to call someone in. Still, screw that, just do it yourself.

Make sure the crank position sensor is reinstalled and all the way in. Nissans are finicky about cam and crank sensors in my experience.

Possibly condensation... I'd drain that oil ASAP to find out for sure

Yeah I have the two shafts as described but like ^ said I have way more gap between transmission and rear axle. I've been driving it this way for the better part of a year now, I check the diff fluid ever now n then, no big sparkles paint so far, it's just noisy. Hopefully once my yota is running I can do the 4wd conversion I've been planning.

I have a similar noise a few thousand miles after installing ARB springs and some spacers (about 3" lift). Put a JY rear end in it (full assembly), same noise, gonna try replacing just the carrier next time so I can see the gears before I drop it in. Definitely interested in the resolution to this. I'm a 2WD guy so the driveshaft should be extending to fill the gap but Idk really.

Had this issue when i got my MAF wet, new sensor and a set of plugs and she purrs

Absolutely interested, always wanted a simple cheap winch mount, even one that hid behind the factory bumper cover like Keelhaul's, but never could find anything for it and was scared to build one from scratch with my meager skills. If you can sell this for even half the price of the ARB you've got my money dude.

Xplorx4 is correct, AT fluid runs through the bottom of the radiator, there is no dedicated AT cooler unless it has an aftermarket one, so if it's leaking its either the lines, which are like 10$ and 10 minutes to change, or it's the radiator, which should never cost anywhere near 1200 to replace. one of my cooler lines sprung a pinhole leak, I was able to drive 40 miles home without the temp light coming on. Do you have the truck with you right now? Is it still throwing the lights since you got it back? Check the alternator connections first, there should be two plugs and one wire with an eyelet bolted to the housing.

normally a bad alternator trips the battery light and the brake lght, not the AT cooler. Did you disconnect the cooler lines when you did the alternator?

I PM'd ya

If it's rusted out, you are in NJ, you're gonna be in for a fight. I'm in FL and broke tons of bolts just replacing my cats

Aww c'mon you dont do that with your college homies??

You infinity guys..........

Mine went out around 170K, the bushings were all chewed up and I had BAD death wobble on the highway, the whole rear end start shaking and throw the truck out of balance. Narrowly avoided a couple accidents going over bridges. I just ended up replacing both arms entirely for about 100$ cause I wanted it to be a quick job and din't have a press for the bushings. As far as preventative maintenance goes you could definitely spend your money/time on worse things. Rugged Rocks does sell adjustable length rear arms but they're pretty pricey.

I have OE replacement struts with OME MD springs, rides pretty dang smooth. For other front end parts like sway bar links and ball joints I went with MOOG parts on the recommendations of the mechanics I work with, they're pricey but I'm willing to pay for quality. I do kinda wish I had looked into rancho struts though.

probably the 2" ones, but that's gonna have to wait a while cause I just bought a beater 4runner that needs some adjustments.

I think I'll pull the trigger on the spacers now, BORAs just to be safe, now that I've seen em on a pathy almost exactly like mine. Is that factory paint? I love the look of it, like a navy ship.

If you have a later VQ like mine you'll have plastic valve covers (earlier ones had metal covers) in which case I recommend you replace the covers and gaskets because the covers will have warped and the spark plug tube seals, which may be the actual cause of the leak, can't easily be removed from the covers without cracking them. I paid 400$ for the set because I had to rush them from the dealer but they're available online for less. I also replaced the paper intake gaskets while I was in there. I use iridium plugs, 40K miles later no problems. I do think that it's worth noting that with older trucks one oil leak is often replaced with another when fixed. My rear main seal went bad 5K after the valve covers, and my oil pan 10K after fixing that. At this point I just park over a metal tray and check the oil regularly. Other threads related to this: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/43099-thinking-about-replacing-your-vq-valve-cover-gaskets-read-this-first/?hl=%2Bvalve+%2Bcover+%2Bgasket http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/42013-valve-cover-gasket-replace-help-35l-2001/?hl=%2Bvalve+%2Bcover+%2Bgasket http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/41476-2004-pathfinder-le-valve-cover-question/?hl=%2Bvalve+%2Bcover+%2Bgasket http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/39946-oil-leak-woes/?hl=%2Bvalve+%2Bcover+%2Bgasket

Make sure you have the cylinder numbers matched to the wires connected to the coils,I accidentally swapped the coils on 3 and 5 on mine once and it wouldn't crank Cylinders are numbered like this

Sorry for the double post here, I got it wrong twice on the last one and i can't edit it so here are the pics in order

http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh628/Saturn-J/0130171634_HDR_zpsgqvvrhyu.jpg just some light 4wheeling before I started gathering parts for a 4X4 conversion http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh628/Saturn-J/0319171329_HDR_zpsgqvavbuk.jpg Mudding in Ocala Nat'l Forest, I think this was a sinkhole or maybe an old phosphorous mine, whatever it was it's a cool place and tons of fun to hoon around in. Got plenty muddy with just 2WD even before I put the lift on http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh628/Saturn-J/0514171756_HDR_zpstekvxksj.jpg After lift, haven't gotten many good wheeling pics with it on, been going it alone mostly since my friends and I seem to be constantly on the clock

I'll keep an eye out for that license plate next time I'm in GA. I'd love to rearrange the bodywork on that BMW POS. Maybe cut the CVs. And wheel spokes. And inject some water in the gas tank. Ugh if someone ever hit my R50 and tried to blame it on me I'd be spending the night in jail.

Seconded on the 10w30, his is a 2000 so its a VG. We do it all the time on older trucks in the shop. The later VQs were a bit more complicated, dual cam and VVT, I always use 5W30 in mine, but an older motor like that can get some use out of heavier oil. Worth a shot