GhostPath

Testing it is possible, but I think only Nissan dealers can do it. Your ECU isn't actually year/model specific. The part number is, but you can use the ECU from any other 49-state automatic V6 Pathfinder from 90-95. There will be some small fuel mapping changes, but your truck will run properly.

Yup, it's quite possible that your ECU got shorted out or damaged while under water. The easiest way to check it is to swap out with another ECU from a known working truck. Where are you located? And, yes, you would need to find a distributor and ignition system if you converted, as ECCS relies on the EFI ECU to work. It really isn't that hard. It's a lot harder to, say, choose the appropriate jets and needles for a carb. And you've just about eliminated the wiring harness as a culprit. The ECU is the next thing to check. How much resistance did you note between the MAF and ECU connectors?

Many domestic cars had a similar issue, so it's not just Nissan. And those "other" makes are actually rusting, too. What's happened here is that Nissan used a high carbon steel to build these trucks. This is stronger than the lower, cheaper grades of steel used by other makers, so they can make cars out of thinner panels and keep the weight and cost down while not sacrificing strength or safety. The problem is that all steel rusts, period, and high carbon steel rusts faster than low-carbon steel. And since there's less steel there for the rust to eat through, we get holes quicker - especially in environments where there's salt on the roads. That's the difference between our trucks and, say, an S-10 or Explorer in the same conditions. The same thing will happen to them, too, but it just takes longer. There are ways to prevent it, but you need to have a largely rust-free Southern or Western truck to start with (since you can't get a new one any more). Fortunately, Pathfinders are *cheap*. You could also buy a non-running rig from the Sun Belt and swap bodies over - after properly cleaning and rustproofing the new frame. Selling the resulting leftover parts will get you more than enough money to pay for the exercise.

Go look up "Cold Spark Knock". I have owned many domestics. Few of them have been any good whatsoever in the long haul. And my 1987 Jaguar XJ6 is more reliable than most of my neighbors' domestics. Which is sad, really. I'd take it back and make them give me another one - everyone makes a lemon from time to time, even Rolls. Give them another chance, and then if that doesn't work out, change back. The WD21s and R50s were all built in Kyushu, Japan. The R51 (05-up Pathfinders) are all built in Smyrna, TN.

If you look at the top of this forum, you will see a link entitled "Pathfinder Service Manuals." http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=9692 Follow the info there. Download the service manual for the 94 Pathfinder, and then open the "EC" section. Check out pages 8, 9 and 10. All the information you need is in there as there were no significant changes in the engine controls from 92-95 (if not further back to when they pitched TBI).

All it takes is one of the MAF lines to go off and it will run poorly. The MAF isn't an all-or-nothing proposition. It will still try to pass some information on to the computer, and the computer will attempt to run on what information it does get. If I had to guess, I'd said the air temp sensor line is trashed. I bet the computer isn't seeing anything on that line. Take a multimeter and ring out the harness between the MAF plug and the ECU plug. You should be able to find the broken (or high resistance) line that way. Shouldn't take more than about an hour to fix - assuming you cleaned the connectors. Also, did you check the vacuum level at the fuel pressure regulator? Insufficient vacuum would cause rich running.

Have you run codes? Checked cam timing? Replaced the oxygen sensor? Replaced the coolant temp sensor? Checked the fuel pressure regulator? To convert to carb, you would need to find a carb manifold and a carb from overseas. It probably wouldn't solve your problem anyway. And you wouldn't pass emissions any more. And your power would go down. And your maintenance needs would go up. And your fuel economy would get worse. Etc., etc., etc. "I want to convert to carb because I can't get it to run right" is, well, stupid. Fuel injection is *easy* once you grasp the logic; the computer can help you diagnose, and it's usually something simple that you can figure out and fix in under an hour (with access to a parts store). Why not post everything you've checked and how you've checked it, and we can see what you skipped and what else you can do? Diagnosing these things is easy - if you know what you're doing (people here do) and have manuals or proper documentation (people here do)!

Could be TPS, too.

Um... you already BOUGHT American made. Your Pathfinder was made in Smyrna, Tennessee. So, you're thinking about going Mexican or Canadian, then?

How, exactly, do you propose to stick a V8 in a little 2.4L engine block?

Convert it to a Z24I - in other words, dump the carb and fit TBI. Or, steal the MPFI off an 80-83 200SX and fit that.

I'm not going overboard with the stereo; I have a Pioneer Premier 200W high power head unit and I'll use that in place of the amp iif need be.

I have a similar problem with my 93. All of my speakers are blown and cannot produce anything resembling bass. From what I've read here, with no modifications 4x6s will fit in the front, 5x7s will fit in the back. I'm going to replace my fronts with 4x6 Infinity Reference 6412cfp speakers ($35 including shipping from eBay - about 1/3rd retail, new in box) and the rears with the 5x7/6x8 Infinity Reference 6812cf speakers ($55 including shipping from eBay about 2/3rds retail, new in box). They're inexpensive and extremely highly rated. The fronts get here later this week (I think) - the rears get here in about a week and a half.

Plug gap is specced at 0.032" I believe.

More likely that you got water in some sensor or connector and it's making the ECU angry. You'll want to dry out the car before trying to determine anything else - otherwise, replacing the ECU might result in another burned out ECU.

Sway bar, antiswaybar, antiroll bar, roll bar. Helps keep the body upright when cornering/turning. Helps keep you from flipping over on the road. Here is a link to an upgrade bar, which will help onroad handling. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...mp;autoview=sku Comes with new bushings, brackets, and everything else needed to install it. That number is for 4WD only, though.

I would think so. Jaguars with the 4.2L I6 engine, at least, seem to have extended water pump life when converted to electrics.

Headgaskets are like condoms - single use only, throw them away after the first installation. Sorry to say, you need new headgaskets and you need to have the heads checked for cracks and flatness.

Well, I got it done; the generic old headunit has been ejected from the vehicle and replaced with a good Pioneer. I only had four screws - two at the top, two at the bottom, a hole in the ash tray opening, but no screw and no place to fasten one there.

If water pump replacement wasn't the huge PITA it is on the VG30, I probably would go with the aftermarket one right off the bat. But a bad water pump can ruin your entire day (and timing belt) on this engine; I figure why chance it. Besides, compared to my other cars, the $85 for a factory pump is *cheap*.

Well, for starters, I think I paid $85 for mine from the local dealer. And courtesyparts.com has it for $90: http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/mer...ode=wd21_tbkita My own personal thoughts on the matter were to just buy the whole kit and caboodle from Nissan and be done with it. It's not that expensive, unless your local dealer is of the type to screw you. And even if they are, Courtesy has all of the parts needed for under $300. Not all aftermarket parts are created equal. I would at least get name brand aftermarket parts - not the house brands. GMB or Bosch for the water pump, for example, and Hayden or Imperial for the fan clutch.

You have to have the Nissan parts catalog to generate the part number. Give me your VIN (in private if you wish) and I'll give you your part number.

Is this a Nissan or aftermarket water pump? Also, a failing fan clutch often goes out of balance - and can destroy water pump bearings in short order. Edit: Just checked the Nissan parts book. No washer, spacer, or gasket between the water pump's drive flange and the pulley.

All the US S12 and S13 240SXs were MPFI, not TBI. So it's probably truck only. TBI sucks rocks anyway, so no point in trying to enhance it when a simple conversion to MPFI is available, IMHO.

According to the Nissan parts catalog, the carpet is only available as one piece that covers the load floor and the backs of the seats. Nissanparts.cc has the one for my 93 (yours may be slightly different, not sure) for $172.22 - quite reasonable for something like that from Nissan. The aftermarket version (made by Auto Custom Carpets and widely available), if you don't want to spend that much, is about $120 or so: http://www.1aauto.com/1A/Carpets/Nissan/Pa...1ACCO00151/6736 The drawback is that the aftermarket carpeting quite often doesn't match the original color as closely as the Nissan stuff does, and it's often thinner and less durable.