Alkorahil
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Posts posted by Alkorahil
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I ban andreus009 because he doesnt know how to wait his turn in line.
I bet he is a habitual line jumper. Probably opens his presents at Christmas first before everyone else too.
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It has been my experience that the aftermaket pick up sensors that are out there for the 3.0L and 3.3L distributors last less than 3 months.
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or are you actually supposed to adjust timing with the ECU "live" and fiddling with the advance?
This.
Check and adjust with the vehicle engine running at idle in park with parking brake on and vehicle transmission in neutral.
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I cannot say for sure if it will work. The US versions come with cruise control already installed so it has never come up here as a concern.
My concern is the ECU for the truck.
It appears from looking at the notes on the R51M that the ECU may not know what to do with the imput signals.
The parts catalouge notes two different ECU modules, those for the LE version (which has cruise control) and for the SE and XE version which means something is different.
The vehicle speed sensors and transmission revolution sensors are the same on the R51M with or without cruise control.
In short, I cannot say 100% for sure if it will or will not work.
However my gut instinct says no because it cannot be that simple. If you do give it a try, I would love to know the results.
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One last question; can a malfunctioning vacuum cut bypass valve have a negative impact on fuel economy?
Thanks again.
Yes it would but marginally, like a loss of 1 MPG or so.
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One last question; can a malfunctioning vacuum cut bypass valve have a negative impact on fuel economy?
Thanks again.
Yes. Though it would be a small decline, about 1 MPG or so.
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I think I will head down to the local pick n pull and grab a distributor. They have about 8 compatible vehicles that I can pull it from.
Local auto zone wants $277.00 and does not offer the Crank angle sensor separately.
At least then I am only out $40 if it is not the problem.
Thanks Guys
For $40,you have a spare one if that is not what is causing the issue and have ruled it out as a problem.
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The most impressive one I have ever seen was a bout two years ago. The guy bought a brand new Juke, he got to the end of the main front driveway of the store after buying it, turned onto the four lane freeway service road into the far right lane and and got rear ended by a vehicle that decided at the last minute to go from the far left to far right lane into the lane he had just entered. He owned the vehicle for about 50 feet.
It was totaled and IIRC had 8 miles on the odometer.
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Remember to disconnect the battery or you are in for a shock!
Literally.
Not that I would have any personal experience or know anything about that at all.....
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I checked that vacuum line first thing. no cracks and it fits pretty tight. It was replaced 3 years ago along with the fuel pressure regulator.
I did not think you could adjust the timing on this engine, in the past every time I tried to adjust it it would go back to where it was. Or are you just saying to check to make sure it is correct?
Goood thing checking that vacuum hose first thing!
My line of thinking on this is that it may be distributor related. The camshaft position sensor is located inside the distributor of the VG30e engine. When there is a big change in engine RPMs under load the ECU is not recieveing signal correctly and the engine will cut off if the ECU doenst recieve an expected signal because the ECU freaks out.
Check to make sure it is correct if it is off it could cause your issue. Even if it isnt the issue it would not hurt to check and adjust if needed!
You can adjust timing on the trucks. Loosen the retaining bolt that holds the distributor to the block slightly and rotate it right or left to advance or retard the engine timing.
The harmonic balancer has 4 slash marks on it. They are usually hard to see on the vehicles as the paint marks have usually worn off a long tim ago. I like to take white out or white paint and fill in the four slash marks and the indicator on the block so I can see them clearly.
The timing should be at 15 degrees BTDC +/- 2 degrees. For AT vehicles make sure the vehicle in in Neutral with the parking brake on.
Facing the vehicle and engine bay looking down at the harmonic balancer, the four timing slash marks on the balancer are right from left:
TDC (0 degrees)
10 degrees
20 degrees
30 degrees
So ideally you want to be in the middle of the four timing marks.
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That is awful to hear. I know the feeling. Is she ok? How bad of a collision was it and were they insured?
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Someone has been lying to her this whole time!!
I don't want to make any disparaging comments about the D/FW area, but you do seem to have an ususually high concentration of morons there. Either that or someone is sending them all to your dealership and telling them to ask for Rob...
B
It is Collin County.
They arent morons per se, just unwilling to admit when they are out of their element. It is difficult to explain.
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What he said. I have seen many repaired with a generic flat blade female connector crimped on the end of the wire. It works. I think people must pull them out chaning the oil filters.
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Get a timing light and check your timing.
Also, check and make sure the small hose that goes from the back of the intake plenum to the fuel pressure regulator is not loose/missing/has cracked ends. this hose is at the back of the engine near #6 cylinder.
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this is the handle and cable for the rear spare tire lock. It is still available from nissan.
PART NUMBER: 57260-0W010
CABLE ASSY, SPARE LOCK
$36.64
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Well, I guess if I had to choose, oil leaks beat oil burning. Thanks for the info!
Agreed. that Sentra oil consumption issue was not fun.
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Wondering if this is an ignition switch issue...
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Does it do this only when turning and under load or will it do it in the driveway in park?
Does it do it onyl after it has been running for a while?
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Yikes. Do the 5.6L motors end up burning oil like the Sentras?
No they do not. Though the oil cooler O-ring gaskets and the engine oil pressure switch will leak after time.
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On each hedlamp there are two adjustment bolts at the top and a nut at the bottom of the headlamp. On the headlight brakcet there is also a nut at the bottom of the bracket. I suspect you are missing a nut at the bottom.
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My Hooptie
Sir Mix-A-Lot
Four door nightmare, trunk locks' stuck
Big dice on the mirror, grill like a truck
Lifters tickin', accelerator's stickin'
Somethin' on my left front wheel keeps clickin'-
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If you go to any dealer and try to order those cowl vent grilles, the part superceedes to the new number.
It is the part number from the hardbody truck from production dates 01/96-08/97.
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I'm kind of amazed that the manifold-mounted cats last at all; seems like the heat cycling would be hell on them. Hopefully the Pathy cats don't puke bits back into the motor like on the Sentras.
The 4.0L cats are vented a little more with the outside air and seem to last longer. 5.6L cats are crammed in there and puke for the same reason as the manifold mounted sentras. They get too hot.
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the later version vent grilles do a better job.
original version
later version
I have seen someone once that put chicken wire under the grille but it looked like crap IMHO.
as far as 100% sure fire way....no.
Headliner
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
Posted
Plasti-dip is a good idea.