Alkorahil
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Posts posted by Alkorahil
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That exact controller P/N 27510-83G00 was used only on the WD21 from production dates 07/90-10/95
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I would look to see if the miss is from the old distributor cap/rotor. That would make a lot of sense.
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^^ Banned for alluding to gastronomic numismatology.
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I don't know what the Chilkoot is based off of, XE or SE. I'm sure Alkorahil in the Classifieds/Services section could answer that in a heart beat (he runs an online parts department and knows his stuff).
The Chilkoot was an XE grade R50 with extra special package items:
- compass
- numbered special edition plague
- alloy step rails/nerf bars
- special package floor mats
- special instrument cluster
- special package body graphics
- I also show some Chilkoot versions came with block heaters. (I guess Canadians need things like this)
From the factory the XE and LE grade R50 had 7.5 inches of ground clearance and P235/70/15 tires while the SE and Chilkoot had 8.3 inches clearance with P265/70/15 tires. So says the vehicle specs.
I do not know for a 100% fact on the Chilkoot, but usually when these special packages have been done in the past by nissan they were done to boost sales. They were sublet out to third party companies by Nissan for the upgrade work. Thus why the special parts are not available from Nissan and do not show up in the Nissan parts cataloge.
As a side note, that is how you can tell on nissans from this era. Vehicles built SE or LE have sunroofs. XE and E grade do not.
For example, the 'Sport Package' XE Pathfiinder has everything a SE WD21 has, less the sunroof and adjustable shocks.
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Why are you selling the truck??
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Yes you will need to install an external transmission cooler. Please do not simply bypass the transmission cooler without putting an external cooler on the truck.
Both Hayden and B&M make excellent quality transmission coolers that many on here have used.
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Hey everyone, just throwing this one out there....I'll probably end up taking the Pathy to a shop & have it looked over, but here we go...
Drove it home a few weeks ago. Once again, sluggish and stalling. Hard to start & keep running. Pump the gas pedal for fuel, & bogged down when applying gas. Finally got it home. So, did a little research on the site. Checked the MAF, coolant sensor and the sensor next to it. Fuel filter is good. Have had plugs, cap, rotar, distributor, fuel pump, plugs, wires replaced. I started it up after cleaning and looking over the sensors. Got it running and idling fine. I suddenly heard a crackling/popping sound come from the header area....not too sure? Sounds like an electrical connection sparking. I didn't see any sparking, but don't want to take the chance of an electrical fire or something on that order.
Any thoughts & ideas would be appreciated. Gives me something to look at and also let the garage know.
I'm about at wits end with this & the wife isn't happy with me putting more money into it.
Thanks again for your input.
This sounds like the classis symptoms of a bad distributor.
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If you did not replace the fuel filter when you did the tune up I would replace that along with the engine coolant temp sensor.
I would also check the vehicle timing with a timing light.
Check to see if the vacuum hose near the firewall that goes from the back of the intake plenum to the fuel pressure regulator is there/not loose/or has cracked and frayed ends.
Double check after the vehicle is hot and been run around for a bit if the transmission fluid is at the proper level.
But most importantly, a bad or marginally working O2 sensor will definately suck power from the truck as the ECU cannot make the proper adjustments to air/fuel mix.
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So did you get the new vehicle repaired and back to new looking?
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My buddy's Dad was an old Datsun/Nissan tech back in the day. He's got a few clear distributor caps for L-Series and KAs. They're pretty cool.
that would be cool to watch!!!
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So from what I am gathering here, the AC switch comes on fine (light up green) the bloaser is not working properly.
This sounds like a blower motor resistor or fan speed switch issue as they both control voltage to the blower.
The most common symptom of a bad resistor is the fan will only blow on high speed no matter which of the four settings the fan switch is on which doesnt fit your issue exactly.
The fan switch is a simple switch. Moving the indicator from one position to another moves the switch accross copper contact points. The higher the setting the larges the copper point the switch makes contact with. The larger the contact, the more currect can flow accross the connection.
These conacts in the switch can corrode over time, reducing or even eliminating the quality of the connection and thus the amount of current that can flow across the connector leads in the switch.
If you remove the instrument bezel you can pull (carefully) the face plate of the AC controller. Move the swtch to 'off'. With a flashlight you can see your switch connectors and see if they are corroded/green.
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Oh that is real nice, I like that. Cross thred that thing!
People should be nicer when working on somone elses property.
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I have seen stuff like that on a Mitsubishi Evo once. Clear valve covers, thermostat housing, water pump. so you can see the inside. It was freaky. At looked expenisve and something that would crack.break easily.
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It was siezed up. Bad main bearings. The aftermarket servince insurance company paid to have a used motor put in the vehicle. It looked worse on the outside than the one they took out.
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What a week this past one was! In the ongoing saga that is what people do to their vehicles.
Got some good ones to share.
First up!
Take a look at this motor we pulled out of am older Maxima to replace.. Take a good look, do you see it???
Now look closer........that is a cut piece of garden hose for a coolant hose!!!
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5W30 is the recommended weight. your owners manual has charts for extreme temp regions and their recommendations
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Pull the switch. Carefully remove the connector pins from the male end blades on the switch. That will keep the alarm from arming.
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Soooooooo that meanas that mine is broken because all of the doors open on the first turn?? not that I care that much... really.
You need to remove and clean your lock cylinder, that should clear that issue up. Or continued to live with it like I do because I am lazy.
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If you replace the VSS make sure to get a new pinion gear for the VSS as well.
This issue does make me wonder if it is just the pinion gear wearing out. Have you noticed anything strange with the speedometer readings like quick momentary jumps by the needle on the speedometer or it not reading till you get above 10MPH?
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As others have said, drive the car up on some ramps, pull the hand brake and have someone rev the engine in park while you slide under and locate the source.
Agreed, try this. If you removed all the heat shields It may be a loose exhaust hanger somewhere underneath or as mentioned earlier a loose baffle inside the muffler.
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That sensor is the intake air temperature sensor. The PCM doesn't use that sensor to operate the engine; it's for diagnostics only. You should leave it connected. Since I have a cone filter (like you), I have simply positioned the sensor near the intake. Actually, I routed some 4" flexible black ABS drain tube through the original hole in the fender down to an opening in the front bumper to help provide cooler air when moving.
After you plug the sensor back in, you can reset the check engine light by disconnecting the battery.
If you never had the sensor unplugged, and your CEL is still on, then you need to find out the code that's causing the malfunction. It may not be related.
What he said.
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today i was out doing some errands and my pathfinder was running very good without any problems and i saw that i was running low on gas so i stopped at a gas station put some gas once after fueling i took off and suddenly it was sputtering and losing power and was running pretty rough and i also saw that a little white smoke was blowing out of the exhaust , i checked on the oil ( after it cooled ofcourse ) and it looked fine , and also notice at taking in first gear the engine rattled a bit and it never did before,, what could have happend??? please help,
I would suspect the rattling in the engine is from the vehicle trying to combust water that it cannot. Have you checked the ECU for any codes?
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I'd probably use some kind of fuel stabilizer like what you put in a lawnmower before storing it (HEET isopropanol or similar)--the idea is that the alcohol in that stuff mixes with the water, and the mix burns better than just water would. Isopropyl alcohol might also work, but make sure it's the 99% stuff, the watered down rubbing alcohol isn't good for much.
Hopefully a little alcohol in the tank sorts her out. If not, let us know, maybe there's something else wrong.
I would to to the local auto parts store and get a bottle of fuel stabilizer like slatibartfast sugested. If it is water inteh fuel tank, one this problem is corrected and the truck is back to running properly, change the fuel filter.
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ever since I got my truck back from the dealership, the ABS light comes on randomly. It'll stay on after I've started it first thing in the morning, then half way to work it turns off. or turns on half way to work then when I get there, and I shut her down then re-start...no ABS light. what gives man?
I haven't done the flash test yet but I figure some connection is bad. also I figure front pads need changing but thats just routine. was gonna do it some time this summer anyway.
PArt of the 14 page TSB they did on your truck required messing with the front ABS sensors. They may not be reconnected to the harness 100% or they could have been removed/installed incorrectly possbily damaging them.
OR it is just coincidence and one of them is going out.
What is this part called?
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
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Agreed, should be easy to find at a salvage yard. I just checked and the part is discontinued by Nissan.