Alkorahil
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Posts posted by Alkorahil
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I am at a loss to think of any........
there are wires and gears under the seat so you dont have much room to play there dropping it down somehow, and the passenger cushion has the occupancy sensor in it so you cant mess with that cushion at all.
Cutting off the bottom half of the driver cushion would be a lot of work, I am not sure if you could reattach the cover then and have it still be tight, but you might gain an inch there.
Try talking to a local reputable auto upholstery shop, see if they have any experience/ideas with this.
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Looks like the oil is correct, and your diff is in fact knackered.
You may be able to source rebuild parts (check with Alkorahil), but it might be cheaper to swap out the third member for one from a non-knackered axle.
Last time I got parts and shims was the first of the year and they were still available.
Many of them came from Japan though and were a month to get them all in.
I would love to sell parts, but I would tend to agree with slartibarfast on this one though. Usually finding a good/great condition used rear end and putting it on is way less time consuming and costs about the same, if you are lucky it is even less in cost than the parts. All those parts add up quickly even if it is just shims. Add a busted/chipped gear, warped axle or bad differential and the price goes up even more.
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so I just had one
customer states he has a 2010 Altima and needs a rear sway bar.
me: Is it a sedan or coupe?
customer: um.....I dont know what that is.
me: Is it 4 door or 2 door?
customer: It is a 4 door.
me: Does it have a 4 cylinder or V6 engine?
customer: I dont know.
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I do not expect the average layman person who walks up to the parts counter or calls in on the phone to know alot of technical stuff about their vehicle but I do expect them to know some basics about what they drive everyday.
But it surprises me how many people do not know what year their vehicle is, or even what model Nissan it is. (I think it is a sentra).
Or even better....'I have a Toyota Avalon'.
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AC in Texas...are you kidding me? I slipped on some ice this morning at the cabin and almost broke my ass! The good news is the blackflies are are out!!! Think I might have swallowed my first 'skeeter of the year.
I took this picture from my back porch this morning...........
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You should "help them" with their "correct" brake calipers Alkorahil.... that might begin to remove some of the less than desirables from the road ;-)
sent from under Ernest the Pathfinder
LOL
So wrong!
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The next thing to look at after the checking the AC fuse is the AC relay. this is the most common problem related to your issue.
The AC relay is on the passenger side fender in the corner near where the antennea mounts.
It should be blue if it is the original relay and have the part number '25230-C9700' or just 'C9970' stamped on the side of it. You will have to remove it to see that part number on the side.
That relay should also be the same for the horn if my memory is correct. check the part number on the side of it Swap them out and see if the AC comes on. If it does then you found your problem and you need a new relay.
If that doesnt work....
- check to make sure the system has freon. It iwll not come on if there is too much or too little freon.
- check the switch to make sure it is good.
- check the AC pressure sensor.
- check the AC thermister. (sometimes called a thermo amplifier)
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"Is it a 4 wheel drive?"
"It has 4 wheels and drives on them, so yes..."
Hopefully it was for windshield wipers, not brake calipers or ball joints!
B
Window Regulator is what he wanted. I asked if it was 4wd to try to weed out the options and grades.
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I am thinking.......if you do not know if your Xterra is 2wd or 4wd and you do not even know what that means.....you don't need to be working on your own vehicle.....
<sigh>
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That hose on the link looks close but not it.
What you are looking for is:
P/N 11826-88G00
HOSE-BLOWBY
$15.93 (Nissan List: $21.23)
This hose is on the left (driver) side of the motor, the PCV valve attaches to it at the top of the intake plenum.
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Kyle I sent you a PM about the sender
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I wonder if something like this would work for you though:
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25075-05U00 is not a US part.
that part number was used on the following models:
C35 W/ RB25DET
AWC34 W/ RB25DET
R33 W/ RB26DETT
R34 W/ RE25DET
Y34 W/ RB25DET
N14 HATCH W/ SR20DET
R32 W/ RB26DETT
I will ask Motorsports tomorrow when I call them for something else and see if they can source 25075-05U00.
You could also try japanparts.com but they charge full list and shipping is high but most likely can get it.
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Very cold temps and very hot temps are not friends of car batteries.
From what you said the battery would be a good candidate for your issues.
If you have a dealer or shop that can do a load lest/charging test on the battery while it is in the car that would help you rule it out. check with your local Nissan dealer. The Nissan tester gives an nice printout of the battery and charging system health. Most will not charge for the test, but some will.
Also,
On average you should get 3-5 years out of a car battery these days.
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Very cold temps and very hot temps are not friends of car batteries.
From what you said the battery would be a good candidate for your issues.
If you have a dealer or shop that can do a load lest/charging test on the battery while it is in the car that would help you rule it out. check with your local Nissan dealer. The Nissan tester gives an nice printout of the battery and charging system health. Most will not charge for the test, but some will.
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I found a steering rack out the third junk yard I tried. Threw it and its all good now. Not sure what was wrong with the other one but it works now!
Its possible the old rack got something in it through the boots. I cant recall ever seeing this though.
Anything is possible. I would think you would have found stuff in your fluid though as well. -
So I tried the steering with the connector off the sensor, no change. Then I shorted the harness to the sensor and the engine revved up a little like it is supposed to I believe. Still no assisted steering when opened or closed. I assume this means its not the sensor.
If it revs up when you jump the harness but doesn't when the sensor is connected I would look into the sensor more carefully.
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Yeah, injector seals can move around and not seat properly (though look like they are) if you are not paying attention. I was telling someone this yesterday who had just replaced his injectors and was having CEL issues.
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They are pretty jacked up ...the body shop mangled them when they removed them..
Thanks Alkorahil u da man!
I'm assuming I'll need these even if I get a bull bar right? thanks again!
for the stock Nissan bar, yes you will need them the bar mounts to the brackets, but make sure the bar is for the correct/corresponding year for your bumper and brackets.
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62212-60G00
STAY-FRONT, RH
62213-60G00
STAY-FRONT, LH
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I see some good choices.
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What Xplorx4 and bushnut said!
Make sure to work safe too! Jack stands and wheel chalks!
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Could this have been a clogged cat or muffler that cleared itself out? That black you saw was soot blowing out?
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Check the upper intake gasket. esp at the back. It likes to slide around and get off center when you put the intake plenum back on. That would create a 'sucking sound' and cause the vehicle to bog out.
Stuck a dashcam in my pathy. I get enough weird material to make a daily "wtf" clip...
in Off-Topic
Posted
I could not tell for the first minute if Indonesia drove on the left side of the road or if the roads were all a free for all. The motorcycles do not seem to care what lane they are in or direction they are going!
How many times has a motorcycle hit you? they just seem to jump out and cross your path without any care!
Dont feel bad, they do not enforce fast/slow lane here in Texas either.
Lastly, your truck sounds good!