Alkorahil

I had an Xterra plate on my 95. I can testify that it fits and the holes line up perfectly.

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/38851-fake-us-cell-towers-found/?do=findComment&comment=733237

exactly!

agreed!

I like to sell parts, but I cant argue with Nefarious on this. IIRC the early Xterra 4WD lower cover will work as well.

PART NUMBER: 50810-41G00 DESCRIPTION: COVER, ENGINE, FRONT, LOWER $112.40 There are also two rubber splash guards that attach to the left and right side of the lower cover: 50816-31G00 SPLASH, RH 50817-31G00 SPLASH, LH they are $18.65 EACH All show still available from Nissan.

I will say this. The last year of the VG30e in the D21U Hardbody had the EGR deleted after production date 01/95. There is even a Nissan TSB about this. Nissan states in the TSB that the EGR was not needed. NISSAN D21 1995 Technical Bulletin #FC0010095 NISSAN D21 1995 technical service bulletin was issued Jan 01, 1995. NISSAN D21 1995 EGR ELIMINATED ON VEHICLES WITH VG30 ENGINE. That being said, it is considered by the Federal Govt to be very naughty to modify the emissions on a vehicle.

IF you have jumper cables properly hooked up and it will not start I would look next at the starter.

Agreed! I saw one at a car show here a few months back, it was verrrrrry nice.

You guys are so nice! As RedPath88 pointed out tightening the small screws that hold the printed circuit board on the back of the instument cluster often fixes this issue. If it doesnot solve the problem then replacing the printed circuit board with one from a salvage yard is the next step. Replacement of the circuit board is easy.

mmmmm. I can neither confirm or deny that Senator.

NGK BKR6EY is indeed the correct plug to use for the VG30e. the stock plug is not a v-groove, that much is for sure.

This sounds like some sort of main harness issue. Check all the wires going out of the firewall to the relay box for any damage and the box itself for corrosion.

this was part of my 'logic' for buying my STI.

agreed!!

This does fit the symptoms of a bad distributor. The aftermarket replacement camshaft sensors for the inside of the distributors do not last. I have seen this and said it over and over. You are not the first person to experience this. I have had many local customers experience the same thing.

I could defiantely see the gunked MAF would cause it to run lean for sure as it is not sending proper readings to the ECU about how much air is coming into the engine. You will probably notice an improvement in throttle response, power and some MPG. The O2 sensor not ready I find interesting though. Did it pass emissions barely or at the higher end of acceptable? OR did he test the emissions with the engine 'cold' or after resetting the ECU recently?

I hear that, it is but just one of those 3.3L R50 things. Yes it would, I base this on that I know certain model subarus had a filter on the canister that you remove because it clogs up! They even had a TSB about removing and deleting it.

More than likely cleaning it will not do anything as the part is damaged from the small pieces of charcoal from the cannister blowing though it. When the charocal in the cannister starts to break down it blows through the solenoid and damages the inside of the solenoid. If this problem goes on for a long time, there is no charcoal left in the cannister, thus making it not function. We have cracked a few open before that felt very light and they were empty. Replacing the cannister by itself doesnt fix the valve issue and replacing the valve will either cause it to get damaged again as the cannister continues to break down. So what usually happens is: Bad cannister + damaged solenoid -> Check Engine Light. Bad Cannister + Good Solenoid -> Check Engine Light Damaged solenoid + Good Cannister -> Check Engine lLght I have even seen a few that had to have the evap lines blown out with compressed air because the charcoal had clogged up the evap line.

There are a few variations for those parts. If PM me your VIN and I can get you the prices for your vehicle.

Yes it could defiantely be an old belt making noise at start up. If it is the original belt you are due! I would check the idler pully as well for any noise and wobble.

I work at a Nissan dealer. I have the parts cataloge right here in front of me. XE Pathfinders and Hardbody trucks will not have the chime. SE/LE Pathfinders from 94-95 and SE Hardbody trucks from 93-97 will have it.

This could be a few things: A circuit it open somewhere draining the battery. The battery isnt charging because it has a bad cell(s). The battery isnt getting a full charge from the alternator because of a bad alternator and/or corroded/loose wiring. some things to check: First off, are there ANY warning lamps on the instrument cluster that are on such as BATT or BRAKE? Check the terminals to the battery are corrosion free and tight. Check the fusible links to make sure they are not corroded. Check all the interior lamps and make sure they are off. Check the five door pin switches, make sure they turn the lamps off and on with you press them. Check that any exterior lamps such as brake lamps or side markers are still on when the vehicle is off. If there is an aftermarket radio amp, that it is it powering off.