amfq120

I had the General Grabber AT2's on my pathfinder and they were amazing on and off road. I highly recommend them, especially since they are cheaper.

I have a 93, how can I tell what interval mine has?

I found this article from car and driver circa 1990. ENJOY! http://m.caranddriver.com/comparisons/1991-ford-explorer-eddie-bauer-vs-gmc-s-15-jimmy-slx-isuzu-trooper-ls-jeep-cherokee-laredo-mitusbishi-montero-ls-nissan-pathfinder-se-and-toyota-4runner-sr5-archived-comparison-test?build-2015112218

Thanks for the info

Got it running, it was 180 off

That's where I have it set, would it still not start even if it was close? I've been smelling hot electrical from somewhere between the battery and firewall, it's not the fuses there, they don't smell or look burnt. I also heard a rapid clicking noise coming from right behind the engine above the trans...starting to think I may have blown something somehow.

I'm following the Haynes manual to the best of my ability. from what I can tell the number 1 cylinder is the front left one, I follow that wire to the distributor cap and then point the rotor at that while the crank pulley is on the second Tic which should be TTC

I've tried turning the key a little until the timing marks are aligned roughly, and then inserted the distributor with the rotor pointed towards the number one cylinder, but it still won't start.

So my Pathfinder had a little bit of a stutter occasionally when I press the gas more than half throttle. I pulled the distributor out to try to turn it one tooth hoping that the timing was just off a little, but now it won't start. I smell a little bit of hot electrical smell. Any advice on what I'm doing wrong or what I need to do to get it running? I've tried turning the key just a little bit until the timing marks are visible on the crank pulley

got it guys, thanks a lot for the advice.

Replaced the upper ball joints on my 94 pathfinder, very easy. The lower ball joints though can't be taken out without the cv joint be moved out of the way, which requires the hub to be separated from the cv joint. I cannot get the allen wrench bolts loose for the life of me. All of them too. Any advice? I'm going to try to warm up the hub and then try to loosen it tomorrow. I dont' want to cut or grind them off because I don't want to spend more money on the IFS BS.

I had the same problem with my 94 auto. When RPM's would drop when shifting to overdrive on the freeway it would bog. What fixed mine was replacing the coolant temp sensor or the engine temp sensor? Its a gold one that looks like a spart plug. It just under the upper radiator hose on my 94.

oh cool. Good luck!

That is a cost effective idea for the most part. However, you'll be much better off buying a Grassroots4x4.com centerlink ($250), Idler arm brace from 4x4parts.com ($30) and using that extra money to upgrade your sway bar bushings, strut rod bushings, etc. Not that the calmini kit isn't good, but what do you do when you need to buy replacement parts for their kit, or after so many miles you want to replace bushings...they cannot be found and new parts are not sold individually. Also, speaking from experience, the closer to OEM you keep your rig, the easier it will be to work on and buy parts for, and the cleaner it will look. Either way, good luck

I had a weird sputter at did the timing, engine coolant temp sensor (at the front of the engine, easy and cheap) and one of the two fixed it

Has anyone run shackles in the front hanger in the rear for leaf's?

Mine's a 94 and I had a BPT valve and removed it when I bought a new EGR valve. No check engine light or codes.

I just got done doing this to an aftermarket stereo that didn't have an RCA output. I bought the adapter from wal-mart for $20. Just plug in two wires from the head unit to the front/or rear speakers, and splice the wire to the speaker from there out.

I had a miss/stutter when I would be at cruising speed with low load on the engine. I have an auto and leave my OD off when under ~50mph and that seems to keep the RPMS in a good range. Also, i replaced the coolant temp sensor by the radiator and that helped a lot too.

I was able to wiggle mine out forward.

On the driver's side of the block there is a little tab with a hole in it that I used to attach my block ground to with a brass nut/bolt and 4 gauge wire to it then to the firewall. Helped with window motor speed, light brightness too. I also noticed those holes when I was searching for a good ground location. Mine are open as well, obviously.

Mine are the "up-country" model, and they give me a good amount of lift. I'm glad I did the suspension lift, although it did take me awhile to get everything tuned in just right. Traction bar was loose for awhile and "pinging" when flexed, the alignment that les schwab did wasn't very good, and when I got it home I could tell that the driver's side tire was still at an angle, so I just removed one of the shims they put in the UCA and that is where I left it. No uneven tire wear what-so-ever. I did not replace my torsion bars either. I've heard they can be a PITA and I saw no need to replace them, no problems there either. Both of my CV joints have torn boots and I'm just waiting for them to break. Any signs to look for or sounds for them breaking?? I've seen your pathfinder go a lot of places stock! Good stuff!

Just paid for my grassroots steering system! Should have it in a few days. I tried to put my idler arm brace on the other day and it would not match up and fit on. I figure this is because there is some bending on the CL. Hopefully it will work after, and if not I'll pick up a dummy box and pitman and go that route.