amfq120

That is a cost effective idea for the most part. However, you'll be much better off buying a Grassroots4x4.com centerlink ($250), Idler arm brace from 4x4parts.com ($30) and using that extra money to upgrade your sway bar bushings, strut rod bushings, etc. Not that the calmini kit isn't good, but what do you do when you need to buy replacement parts for their kit, or after so many miles you want to replace bushings...they cannot be found and new parts are not sold individually. Also, speaking from experience, the closer to OEM you keep your rig, the easier it will be to work on and buy parts for, and the cleaner it will look. Either way, good luck

I'm hoping to go but am still trying to get Sunday covered at work

I had a weird sputter at did the timing, engine coolant temp sensor (at the front of the engine, easy and cheap) and one of the two fixed it

Has anyone run shackles in the front hanger in the rear for leaf's?

Mine's a 94 and I had a BPT valve and removed it when I bought a new EGR valve. No check engine light or codes.

I just got done doing this to an aftermarket stereo that didn't have an RCA output. I bought the adapter from wal-mart for $20. Just plug in two wires from the head unit to the front/or rear speakers, and splice the wire to the speaker from there out.

I'm in...lets get a date planned so I can get sunday off work

I had a miss/stutter when I would be at cruising speed with low load on the engine. I have an auto and leave my OD off when under ~50mph and that seems to keep the RPMS in a good range. Also, i replaced the coolant temp sensor by the radiator and that helped a lot too.

I was able to wiggle mine out forward.

On the driver's side of the block there is a little tab with a hole in it that I used to attach my block ground to with a brass nut/bolt and 4 gauge wire to it then to the firewall. Helped with window motor speed, light brightness too. I also noticed those holes when I was searching for a good ground location. Mine are open as well, obviously.

Mine are the "up-country" model, and they give me a good amount of lift. I'm glad I did the suspension lift, although it did take me awhile to get everything tuned in just right. Traction bar was loose for awhile and "pinging" when flexed, the alignment that les schwab did wasn't very good, and when I got it home I could tell that the driver's side tire was still at an angle, so I just removed one of the shims they put in the UCA and that is where I left it. No uneven tire wear what-so-ever. I did not replace my torsion bars either. I've heard they can be a PITA and I saw no need to replace them, no problems there either. Both of my CV joints have torn boots and I'm just waiting for them to break. Any signs to look for or sounds for them breaking?? I've seen your pathfinder go a lot of places stock! Good stuff!

Just paid for my grassroots steering system! Should have it in a few days. I tried to put my idler arm brace on the other day and it would not match up and fit on. I figure this is because there is some bending on the CL. Hopefully it will work after, and if not I'll pick up a dummy box and pitman and go that route.

for the warn or for the oem?

My hubs need servicing and I was curious, if I get the warn manual hubs or even the nissan manual hubs out of a junkyard, are either of those servicable without special tools? I don't want to have to pay to get my bearings serviced by a shop.

I've seen these axles hold up to a lot of abuse under cherokees and jeeps alike. I can get ahold of a HP d30 with 4.56 gears/disks brakes for $200 and am seriously considering it since my front end needs a lot of replacing and I'll need new (bigger) tires soon anyway. The d44 is stronger than the d30 anyday, i know that. It makes more sense because there isn't the cost of hub adapters, i know that. On the other hand they are cheap and plentiful, and are ready to swap without regearing or even cracking the axle open for that matter. Running 33's on the road and 35's on the trail shouldn't break the axle anyway. Long story short, my question to those more experienced than I am, is that if I put a d30 with leaf springs under my 94, with the steering set-up and leaf spring/shock perches match up to a d44 later down the road?

So is there still a need for the HD chevy outer TRE if using the 2wd d21 setup? The parts are pretty cheap on rockauto so i think I'll do the same. The center link and 2 inner TRE should be less than $200, plus the stabalizer will still be less than the grassroots system. Keep us posted dood, but since mine is already bent I think i'll just pick one up and swap em over.

I'm not the original owner and I don't know what previous engine work was done but i've replaced the thermostat, timing belt, all other belts, water pump, filters, fuell pressure regulator, one injector just for fun, new radiator, engine temp sensor, starter, 90 amp alternator, probably some other stuff too but its never let me down. Had some starting problems but that was fixed with the new starter. I also attached a 4 guage ground from the block to the firewall recently and that helped with a lot of the power loss. Have been thinking about getting rid of it and getting a jeep or sammi but I just can't imagine letting all that hard work go to waste, so I'll be doing the 2wd hardbody steering upgrade or grassroots to give it some more strength.

Saw this rig in Puyallup, wa *looks like it has a TM 4" lift and 3" body lift on 33x12.5

I've got 260k + on my 94 wagon. It feels good to be a part of the quarter-million club!

Also, isn't the tie rod end itself pretty strong vs. the center tapered part? Any way to strengthen that, or is that a 1 ton chevy part too?

Any chance you guys know the part number for those GM tie rods?

nice rig, you'll love it. Welcome to the family!

I'm up for wheeling anytime.