RCWD21

Haha Thanks! I'm going to find a way to get one wired in. I'd really like to have it since I off road quite a bit, not to mention if I can have it I want it in there lol

I'm swapping the 3 speed from my 87 pathy to a 5 speed from a donor and I was wondering about the interlock switch. Is the dash harness for the auto trans already wired for the interlock switch if it were a manual from the factory? If so it would save me a ton of time. Also instead of jumping the wires for the neutral safety switch from the auto what would I need to have in order to have it more "factory" I don't mindswitching harnesses if it will make wiring simpler for me in the future. I've searched for these things but I can't find these specifics that I'm after. Also all harnesses would be from a 93 and back pathy or hardbody just for simplicitys sake.

Sorry about the duplicate post, could someone take THIS and the first copy down?

I found that a while back and I couldn't find it again after that damn phone... Well hopefully that'll help me get the thing hooked back up and then all I need is to find a key fob.. I'd like for it to work since it's installed lol. I THINK the red light on the switch came on before I dived into that rats nest lol Although I'll need to source a siren I think I something I can use that's loud if not louder than the normal one that's normally there lol

I found that a while back and I couldn't find it again after that damn phone... Well hopefully that'll help me get the thing hooked back up and then all I need is to find a key fob.. I'd like for it to work since it's installed lol. I THINK the red light on the switch came on before I dived into that rats nest lol

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the anti-theft for an 87 pathy? I had to disconnect a handful of wires to clear up a small rats nest and so far I can't find a single thing for this.. any help would be greatly appreciated,

I have an update for yall I honed the cylinders and reinstalled the crank and pistons with new rings New hardware being a brand new water pump and oil pump, next is a new lower timing sprocket (had to cut and crack the old one off)

Well hopefully all of the parts I ordered will be here on Friday , if so all I have left is the radiator and finding a transmission and the other misc engine parts I'm missing.

Here's a thought since this sounds very similar to what happened with my 95 hardbody, is it possible you've gotten bad gas or water in your tank? I got some gas at Walmart because I couldn't make it to a better station, I only got a couple gallons worth and thanks to the high ethanol content it attracted moisture like crazy and I had the very same symptoms as you described earlier. It would run and idle fine but wouldn't rev correctly and if you gave it too much gas it would fall flat on its face until the rpm got real low and picked back up again.

Ball joint spacers will cause severe stress on the ball joints and you'll wear them out in no time. With the uca's they correct the ball joint angle so it sits more inline with itself and thus reducing the sideways pressure from them sitting at an angle. I haven't lifted my pathfinder yet but I wouldn't recommend the spacers. The uca's are the best and safest option in the long run. I'm sure some of the guys that are more experienced with lifts will chime in soon.

Sounds like I'll be saving up for a locker then

I've had poly bushings in the front end of my rig for a few months now and they're worn pretty bad to the point of causing alignment issues and camber problems. That's just my experience though, but as a not be careful when you wheel and try to avoid sliding sideways onto ruts and holes. That'd what got me in the spot I am now

I watched that one in one of your older threads or maybe one you had replied to I'm not sure, I can see the difference for sure. And since you haven't noticed a lot of tire wear more than normal I think I'm going to scour for a locker once I finish getting it running and driving again.

Do you have any tips or tricks when it comes to getting used to it? And I was thinking about it more earlier and where I go most of the time is where theres a lot of holes where the locker would get me out. Last time I got stuck was 7 miles back in the woods and luckily I knew someone that could reach me. Have you noticed anything about accelerated tire wear?

Since I have both an open and LSD 3rd member in my 87 and 90 pathfinder I'm trying to decide which I'd be better off going with. The 87 is currently open The 90 is currently LSD I don't go mudding per say but I do go through a lot of softer stuff including mud and water and very thick forest areas. I'm usually on very tight and twisty trails that can average from hard packed dirt to 2 or 3 feet deep water that is at times 60 feet long. I've read that a locker is night and day from an open differential but would having basically a solid rear end cause sliding issues into trees and holes more prone than the LSD? It's down to $350 for the locker or basically free for the LSD rear end. By the way this will be what I will be running under my 87 as I will be selling my 90 to my friend so he can go off roading with me.

It's been a while but I finally have new RUBBER bushings in the box waiting to go in hopefully next weekend I'll take pics of the worn polly bushings once they're out.. Also found lower control arms on rockauto for $65.

Kingman is right about the 4 speeds being nightmares. I rebuilt the one in my 90 and it had a lot of burnt friction discs due to being over heated. Now I run a huge cooler and plan on going even bigger for this summer. I also have an 87 with the 3 speed and it's toast due to pure neglect from the previous owner. When I drained it, it was burnt and felt like someone poured sand in with the fluid. So now I'm going with a manual transmission. As for the transfer case they're all the same bolt pattern but becareful as the one for the manual transmission has a little cup under the input shaft to hold oil for the seal right there. The autos don't have that cup.

Ok guys, sorry for the big delay in posting on here for anyone that's been following this thread.. I have my heads rebuilt and they look better than new the broken studs unscrewed with the help of an spiral stud remover. The throttle body is all nice and clean with new gaskets and seals. And I just ordered all of my other parts testerday. Thanks to rockauto with their discount code I saved about $25 which I can now put towards the other things I need. Only thing left to order is a radiator. So far I need to swap over the pedal assembly from a donor truck that I have and find a transmission and some other parts for the front of the engine and I'll be back running again then I can begin all my customization and get it exactly where I want All my parts should be here by March 1st at the latest so I'm really excited to get this thing done!

I've been using Standard products. They're about the same price as BWD and I've had really good luck with them.

Looks like I'll just use the sensor I already have then And Pav I haven't had any issues using aftermarket temp sensors, although I only use one brand. There's an aftermarket sensor in my 90 and it reads the same as it did just a little over a year ago when I put it in. I guess I'm just lucky. Either way thanks guys.

So after getting tired of the climbing price of everything I went through rockauto just out of pure curiosity and saw a lot of wholesaler closeouts and thanks to those hopefully in the next few days I'll be able to order the 30 something parts for $300.74 then I'll be getting the waterpump/ timing belt kit, radiator, and an e-fan controller from eBay for another $160 and then all that's left is the junkyard hunting which should only run me around $200 to $250 if I can keep my urge to get other parts down lol. But that can wait until I get next month's bills squared away since my 90 is due for an inspection and new rag sticker.. All in all I should be able to get the engine reassembled though! Just one question, is the driveshaft a different length between the auto and manual transmissions, I can't remember if they are or aren't? If not that'll save me a little bit of money and time.

Planned on it lol just need to find a transmission and possibly a drives haft since I can't remember if they're the same length or not.

I've searched all over everywhere and I can't find a difference but what is the actual difference between the tx18 (vg30e) and the tx31 (vg30i) temp sensors besides the tx18 being in a coolant passage and the tx31 being in the cylinder head? Would using the tx18 on a vg30i engine cause any issues or does the ecu even care? I have a new tx18 sensor that I mistakenly ordered and realized my mistake when I double checked after I placed the order...

So far all that's left to order is a new radiator, piston and ring set, replacements for all the worn out bushings, a fan controller unit that's actually reliable, timing belt kit, new lifters, a clutch and flywheel, and a tune up kit that has the accessory belts all the way to the spark plugs. Ordered so far is the oil pressure gauge sending unit that I luckily got for $20, oil pump, crank timing sprocket, throttle body gasket set, rear main seal, valves, oil pan gasket set, radiator cap, and thermostat. Now for a question that I hope isn't a screw up on my part and something I can get away with. Would using a tx18 coolant temp sensor work compared to the "proper" tx31? It says both sensors are "compatible" with both engines and I didn't think to double check that simple thing when I ordered everything..

I think my brain is burnt out and turned to dust because I couldn't think of that name to save my life... Thanks though lol now to check the crank and see if I need to get one or not. I felt a groove there but didn't look to see how severe it was.