RCWD21

I was thinking the same thing and I measured as best I could various points all over underneath there and I couldn't find anything different. All the bushings are old a couple hundred miles old now and if something were bent with the lower control arm wouldn't it show its ugly head when I installed my torsion bars? From left to right the control arm bushings look straight. One thing I did notice but didn't pay much attention to was the lower control arm on the drivers side could be flexed forward about a 1/4 of an inch roughly but I think at the time I just chalked that up to me trying to pry the home into position to get the bolt in the compression rod. But once everything is in there it looks straight but I'm taking a closer look tomorrow when I'm under there again.

I also took the advice given and ground the bearing races off about half way and got everything as smooth as I possibily could with the tools I had on hand.

I centered both races as best I could using an old compression rod washer to keep slag out of the inner race. They were lined up using the rear bushing cup. Its like one bushing is too thick and its being over compressed but I can't find anything that's bent or out of line its driving me nuts! The frame is straight and nothing upfront shows any sign of damage other than the bumper right in the middle got pushed back a bit and some body damage but nothing to the frame or suspension. I'll take pics in the morning to show you exactly what I'm dealing with. If you look at my previous pictures you can see how shredded the old bushing was.

If this doesn't work I'm going back to rubber bushings as they're a little shorter but it still doesn't explains why one side is doing it and the other isn't.

Ok guys if anyone's following this thread, I've replaced my ball joints and welded the holes for the compression rod bushings with some hardened washers to make the hole smaller and more centered and ground down the bearing race cups. I've noticed a problem on my driver side though. The bushing is muchrooming out but the passenger side isn't. Everything is straight and tight and I can't find anything bent. I'm trying to figure this issue out but any input would help

I have this same problem. Once its warmed up it runs so smooth I can't feel it running. The cause could be partially clogged injectors, weak fuel, a fouled spark plug, dirty cap and rotor, or bad plug wire. What have you done maintanence wise?

I'm going to grind down the bearing races a little bit. And I've been contemplating going to rubber bushings but I have another set of brand new poly bushings here already.

Passenger side seems much better but it is also split inline with the rod. The two rods are at different angles because im parked on a slight bump on the driver side and I took the pic from a higher angle. The angle you see in this pic is how the rods are when I'm on flat level ground. Could they not be compressed enough or should I just use a different bushing? I've seen tons of people on here that have used them without issue. That's why I went with them in the first place. That and the bearing races as replacement bushing cups. This whole thing is just over my head but then that's why this forum is here

From underneath

This is the suspect bushing

Stupid question but how do I add pictures on here?

Well I can't overtighten them because of the collar and washers. They're not being squished except a very minuscule amount. Maybe 2 or 3 millimeters at the most. I'm ordering everything for the steering just shy of the steering box on monday. And then I'll take it just down the road to get an alignment. When I replace all the components I'm going to put in the new set of bushings. The kit I got didn't come with the new washers but the ones I have arent bad enough to cause this I would think

Sorry about not replying right away guys, I've been swamped with work. I can take a few pics tomorrow of the issue. And also an update on the bushings. The passenger side has also split but not that bad. My centerlink and tie rods are shot to hell and I've been trying to save up to get that fixed but I just had to replace my injectors so there went that money. When I hit a bump the wheel wobbles and when I turn my centerlink twists about 15°. Could a worn steering system be the whole cause of this? I have a second kit ready to go but I don't want to install it until I know for sure what the cause of the bushings splitting is. Sorry for the long winded post by the way. I'll post pics just as soon as I can

I'm using the new sleeves and the holes are slightly wallered but nothing major. I have bearing races for the front cups. The washer things are cup side out and everything is tight like it should be. The hole on the driver side is in better shape than the passenger and the passenger side is perfectly fine. My control arm bushings are all poly now and there's no play in them whatsoever.

I replaced my compression rod bushings a few months ago and I'm on my second set on the drivers side. They keep mushrooming out from the rod. I've welded in the bearing races in place of the old cups. I need shocks and to replace my center link but I don't think that's causing the problem. The bushings are the blue Moog bushing. What would cause this? Oh and I replace the control arm bushings at the same time as these so there's no movement there.

What year xterra tranny did you get? I've heard and read mixed results. I think it was from 01 and up? And for now since this transmission is in good working order I want to get it to work as good as I can. I mean $85 for brand new solenoids is a steal lol and I wasn't aware that there was two shift kits? With mine its not so much slipping as it is a long shift period between gears. To me it feels like either the solenoids are weak or the TCU is failing. I looked at it and it has been "rebuilt" by someone. It doesn't say who. The sticker around it just says "rebuilt by an independent rebuilder. Warranty void if opened"

Anybody?

Ok guys with the wealth of knowledge on here I'm sure someone knows the answer to this. I have a '90 pathy and since the rebuild on the transmission and even with a shift kit installed I'm still unhappy with it. The sloppy shift from 2nd to 3rd gear is acting like a slipper clutch. I can put it to the floor and either 2nd gear or 3rd gear grabs but slips and I hate it. I'm going to replace all the solenoids and I've unhooked the resistor behind the battery and its helped a bit for now until I can get the new solenoids. But here's my main question, is there a way I can increase line pressure for good and is there and differences in the later year TCU's in the pathfinders? Does say the 94 year TCU have a different shift map than the 90? I don't have a problem experimenting and I can certainly deal with firmer to harsh shifts. I just want this thing to be as bullet proof as possible. Any help would be great and I hope someone comments soon lol

What brand is the additive you have?

I may just keep the tube and put half in the front diff and the other half in the transfer case. It says it can be used in both and it has friction modifiers so it'll only improve the performance of the oil in there

My big thing is just the confusion on how much to add to the oil for the correct ratio. I don't want too much or too little. And its not much more to just get the oil with the additive already mixed in. Plus its easier and its a well known oil

I'm just going to try and return this tube and get 3 bottles of castrols LSD oil and go with that.

I actually looked in there and couldn't find it haha I may have just over looked it. Every vehicle I've driven and worked on I find an FSM for it. Best thing out there haha but thanks for the info!

I'll try that. Thanks for the idea! Now here's a question, how much fluid does the diff hold?

It says limited slip gear oil additive on the front and per the directions it says to add the entire contents of the tube but then it says not to overtreat. I was told to try half the tube at first and see how that did but now I'm unsure of what to do.