RCWD21

Ive searched multiple forums but i cant seem to find my answer anywhere and now that my gas mileage issue has been fixed I'm finally getting around to changing the differential fluids (did the front today) but here's my question. How much additive do I put in? I have a tube of trans-x posi-trac additive and it says to add the whole tube but I'm not sure if that's too much or what. I know there are oils that already have the additive but I can't return this tube and since I have it I might as well use it. Its a 7 ounce tube. Anyone have an answer for this? This is the last fluid I have to change.

Torqued to spec with blue locktite and then double checked after a day of running it. It doesn't make the noise now but I'm starting to think it came from the power steering pump as it cavitates even with being properly bled 3 times and correct fluid level

I'm the one that rebuilt it. Lol I let it sit over night and everything was good to go. Not sure what the noise was from though

Great!!!! More problems!!!! Now the transmission sounds like its got marbles in it when I'm driving down the road -.- I pulled out in traffic and gave it a little more gas to go and then it made a god awful screeching and crunching noise but everything still works ok just the noise. And yes it was just rebuilt and has a shift kit in it and and auxiliary fluid cooler.I completely bypassed the stock one even though its a new radiator. The fluids not burnt and its only been a few thousand miles if that since the rebuild.

No codes no nothing.

Ntk. And I figured it out. My coolant temp sensor plug came loose enough to lose contact

Any idea why a new oxygen sensor would cause worse mileage after being replaced?

No that was only the 2wd models. 4wd models had a 21 gallon tank

Alright guys, I got the sensor installed and the mpg issue has gotten WORSE! I'm at the point of just replacing every sensor to rule it out. The only code I've ever pulled from this is for the knock sensor. I have one on the bench that I just received yesterday.

Ahh ok. I looked at an OEM harness just out of curiosity and it was almsot $1500! That's rediculous! Luckily I can pick and choose connectors and clips from wiring specialties.

Yes I've cleaned it. CRC Maf cleaner. Didn't make a difference at all. Unplugged it to check to see if its functioning correctly and it went into limp mode.

Did you relocate your knock sensor? If so where did you mount it to? I was thinking one of the plates on the back of the head where one of the crankcase vent lines go. But then again I'm pretty sure I could just jack up on the transfer case a bit and undo the transmission mount and that'll give me more room so I'll hopefully be able to swap sensors since I know the bolt isn't stuck because I removed it once before.

I actually checked them before I handed over the grand I paid for it. Smooth and no noise or scraping noises besides the pads on the rotors. Plus I regressed them when I installed new wheel seals and calipers once I got it home. The lockimg plate is tighten correctly and the only thing besides these sensor that I can think would be eating into my mileage is the front bushing in the control arms. The steering wheel is a tad sloppy and before I adjust the steering box I want to make sure that everything else is good. They still seem good but all the steering linkages will be replaced once I get the money. I figured for $130 for all the linkage components its a good deal to make sure I can steer straight and this monster is up to where I want it to be. I have the sensor at the shop waiting to be installed now I just need to get over this damn head cold and find a warm spot to install it. I'm ordering a new knock sensor and CTS soon to Aldo eliminate those as variables. I've been reading a lot on the smaller things and I can't find a consistant answer so I'm just going to replace them. The knock sensor is original and it literally looks like a spiderweb but it tested good before the engine was pulled so I didn't think twice about it then. Now I regret it big time. So hopefully I can snake my arm under there to unplug it

That's what I was going to do next once the oxygen sensor was in. They're both OEM so I might as well replace them. Just waiting on this sensor to hurry up and get here

I figured some things out with mileage. I'm getting 9.57 miles per gallon so that's right at 200 miles a tank. Which is obviously way off from the normal. I don't expect amazing mileage out of this thing but I'd like at least what was advertised or maybe a little better if that's possible. Everything else is new and well within spec. Hopefully the sensor will arrive today

Its so bad here that I've even checked the tank for holes lol when I cleaned the sending unit I had to remove chunks of what was probably 20 year old sugar that someone put in the tank. Surprisingly the tank had no rust/ scale and only 2 drops of water!

Damn dude that sucks! Its in the high 20's here and raining/freezing and once this clears up or I can snag another bay I'll replace the sensor. It should be here tomorrow hopefully.

How bad is yours?

Alright cool. Once its warm here I'll be tackling everything

Ok cool. I read on some of their stuff but wasn't 100% sure. I'm guessing as close to the original spot as possible would be best since it operates based on perceived frequency changes? Ill be replacing it once I get the oxygen sensor in and can test it. Would the knock sensor cause this bad of a drop in mileage? Everywhere I've read said it would only be a few mpg if that.

I have an ntk sensor on its way, it should be here the 25th. I don't like cutting and splicing sensors in. This is the sensor to the plug. It tests good but I'm going to replace it since its the original sensor in there.the only code I'm getting is for a knock sensor so I'm oreding one of those today. And now I have a question about that. Can I mount the knock sensor somewhere else? Like on the intake plenum?

Ok, well it starts and runs again. The fix? Threaten to replace the starter relay and magically it fixes itself. Hasn't given me one issue since I put the pare relay in the glove box lol as for the o2 sensor I'm still looking for a good price of an NGK brand. I looked at it today and sprayed some penetrating oil on it right after I drove it a little bit. Upon getting some more crud off of it I discovered its the original Nissan sensor and seeing as its 25 years old I'm just going to replace it to eliminate it as a variable. Also I drained the tank bone dry pulled the fuel pump fuse and left the key on and put in 5.25 gallons at a time and the fuel gauge is dead on accurate at each interval. That's about all I'm able to do for now because my work space is currently taken up by a 200sx that I'm servicing and installing a timing kit and brand new valves.

I can't remove it without removing the transmission lines. I went through this when I rebuilt the transmission. The lines and the passenger side axle get in my way. But I'm going to try the relay and a booster battery and see if that fixes my problem first

Removing the starter on these is a pita. Especially with cooling lines right in the way

I tried that already and nothing. I don't get anything from the starter. I have another relay here I'm going to try plus another battery justvto eliminate the variables